Quote:
Originally Posted by SadSam71
Yeah work up to the shade you want . In the space of 5 minutes . Add all the stain you want and get it over with .
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SadSam71
Yeah work up to the shade you want . In the space of 5 minutes . Add all the stain you want and get it over with .
I'll keep track of the mixtures for future reference. Progress report to come...Quote:
Originally Posted by auscab
This is slightly lighter than what I hope will be the final colour, I've tried to make it look less all one colour by using metho to fade area's and hopefully look more antique-ish.
Attachment 467039Attachment 467040Attachment 467041Attachment 467042Attachment 467043Attachment 467044
The colours used were 60ml Jarrah, 30ml Walnut, 20ml Metho. Constructive criticism welcome!, I have no idea what I'm doing so help is much appreciated.
Rob, what do I do now?, or rather what would you do now, don't say burn it cos I'll have a break down.
Sam . After all we've been through What on Earth do you think I'm going to say :)
It looks about like what you showed you wanted.
You have an oil based sanding sealer yes ? Thin it a little and put it on FFFS = For Freddo Frogs Sake :)).
This will hold that type of stain in place so you can coat it up with shellac later, and not be taking out the stain as your putting on shellac.
The start of laying on shellac is the start of your FP job
It looks nice . I would have had the SS on as soon as that was dry so its good for the next day . I like to leave it to dry over night .
LMAO, For Fredo Frogs Sake!, I'm stealing that one!.Quote:
Originally Posted by auscab
So you don't think I've gone too dark?, what sort of detailing & effects do you do after you got the stain on?, or is that after the sanding sealer is in place etc?.Quote:
Originally Posted by auscab
Just letting you know I'm inflicted with being a perfectionist and never completely happy with anything I do.
The effects I do after sealing .Quote:
Originally Posted by SadSam71
Ive said it all. All I'm prepared to say that is :)
A lot in this thread and a little in some other threads around here.
Ill add, there is a fast standard way of getting an aged look and that's this method sealing in with SS. Its complex enough and comes up great but the SS has limiting effects .
The more time consuming way I save for the best bits doesn't use modern products . Reacts very differently to things you may do on the faster SS job .
If you get your base colour close but lighter, seal it in and polish it , You will end up somewhere close to the pictures of things you put up .
Ive said this before . If you go get the spirit and oxide colours Ive talked about . Add and take off colours mixed in with shellac as you go . Experiment . Experiment . Experiment . Did I say Experiment ?? You will be shading and getting effects and be going darker with each additional application . It will be a standard polishing way of getting further.
In doing this the trouble I and everyone gets into is going to far and ending up to dark . Good looking light coloured jobs are a more skilled and harder thing to achieve . So go lightly .
I can say that .
I have always been very secretive about the deeper darker processes with some things I do to get things looking the way I do . Like every body else who does the same . Putting it all online is something I cant do . And it would drive me nuts trying to explain it anyway. To long and hard .
edit . Maybe one day Ill do courses on it and teach it . Seems to be the way to go ? Make a buck that way ?
Have you bought your shellac ? or shellac's ? Two types ?
Or you could write a book Rob?... I get first copy signed for suggesting it tho!.Quote:
Originally Posted by auscab
Yes mate, have all the stuff ready, sanding sealer, shellec and a bottle of 100% metho.Quote:
Originally Posted by auscab
Would there be any technical issues by lightening the stain a little bit with metho?
If anything I think its looking on the light side already , nothing can go wrong if you lighten with metho though .Quote:
Originally Posted by SadSam71
Strange question ?? You've just put it on with metho added , how could more put on then let dry do anything ?
Do some test spots or the whole thing . If its not looking right metho and steel wool it off and do it again .
Rob
When I used metho to wipe off the stain last time it looked as though it was trapping some of the stain in the grain, the wood lightened but the grain was dark, if that makes sense?.Quote:
Originally Posted by auscab
So I'm back on the job after a few weeks out. I'll be updating with progress within the next few days!. I have another project which involves a Birch Gateleg Table: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f173/...47#post2173294
This has been very overdue!, however I plan to finish the clock now. As it stands I have the back cut and completed, I only had 7mm veneered plywood which is too thick for the back so I routed the edge to make it flush with the carcass. I chucked some stain on to try and match the colour of the carcass.
Attachment 515793
This question is directed at Rob (Auscab): Now as I understand it, I should use sanding sealer to seal in the stain, is there any other method I could maybe use to seal the spirit based stain in?. What if I gave it a quick once over with some hard shellac (I love this stuff!) making sure I don't brush back and forth?, or maybe use a roller on the flat parts?...
Next question is, I noticed after staining the plywood back in the grain there is a cross-hatch pattern, what is it and why is it there?.
Attachment 515795
Hey Rob, Have you got any advice on knowing when to stop standing the sanding sealer?. I've got one coat on theQuote:
Originally Posted by auscab
clock so far, this was thinned down using 30% turps and applied using a brush.
One coat can be a bit thin. Its easy to go through it . Applying two thinned coats is better than one . Id give it a light wipe with fine paper to take off the pin point high spots and give it a second coat . Then when that's dry cut it back a bit harder with fine paper.Quote:
Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71
Thanks Rob, yeah I'll be giving it another coat of SS tomorrow. Would 400 grit be ok for the first rub over?, for theQuote:
Originally Posted by auscab
corners and intricate parts can I use 0000 wire wool?.
400 is good . A worn out 400 is better . Steel wool is not as good at this stage. It doesn't flatten as good as fine paper does.
Quote:
Originally Posted by auscab
Ok I've cut it back with some worn out 400 paper, I noticed I sanded through in few small spots (corners), does that matter, can it be rectified during the shellac phase?. Second coat applied and will be waiting till tomorrow for that to dry before the final sanding. Also what could I use to wipe down the dust from the carcass?.
Very frustrated. I've started again and taken the clock back to bare wood. The sanding sealer I used was awful and dried very soft hence I kept cutting through to the stain making a mess.
So given the fact everything is back to bare wood, should I use a turps based stain (Wattyl Colourwood Interior Stain) and then just shellac over the top?, or should I use the meth based stain and spray the shellac?. Or maybe theres another option?.
How on earth are you supposed to french polish inside corners and difficult to reach area's?.
Project complete.
Attachment 518268
Nice one Sam . It looks like a Walnut clock case . How did you find the french polishing ? Did you stick with that ?
Rob
It was extremely difficult and painstaking!. I actually stripped the case a second time and decided to wipe the sanding sealer on very thinly because applying by brush left a very rough brush marked surface with which toQuote:
Originally Posted by auscab
apply the shellac. I found that you can't be too finicky when applying the polish to inside corners and detail, it took about two weeks to get enough thickness in the film so I could go back and rub out the finish, even then I managed to cut through some area's...
All said and done, its not perfect but I'm fairly happy with it. Onto my next project which will be quite a building task.