I have used a lot of coloured shellac for decorative finishes the coloured shellac is made by adding universal tint to the shellac. Universal tint is the stuff they use in paint shops to tint paint with. It comes in a myriad of colours and if you go to Bunnies and ask for a sample or two they will usually give you some in a small container.Quote:
Originally Posted by IanW
Below 3 decorative finishes using universal tinted shellac over a PVA gesso mix.
stippled - Centre: Brush Roll - Right: cling wrap.
Attachment 507807 Attachment 507808 Attachment 507809
However universal tint isn't really ideal for doing what you want, which is basically colour matching and is an art in itself and not something to try without a lot of practise even the big finishing establishments of long ago had colour matchers that were basically the guru's and hid their matching methods/formulae from the polishers.
Much safer and easier in the long run for novice polishers to stain the wood rather than colour the shellac. In many instances antiques were (when they were new, or a future antique) were died with chemical dyes and mordants. Mahogany and oak being two that were most often chemically dyed. A mix of potassium bichromate (carcinogenic) and hot water (don't inhale the fumes) washed over mahogany gave the timber the deep rick colour associated with Empire furniture. Same mix over Oak gave a deep rich brown.
Worked brilliantly with all tannin rich woods. Can even be done on woods that are almost devoid of tannin like pine. Soak a heap of teabags in boiling water and let them steep until cold then chuck 'em in the bin. Wipe the cold tea over the wood allow to dry then apply the potassium bichromate and hey presto you've got walnut well pine that sorta looks the goods.
Attachment 507810
Above 2 bowls dyed with water dye and finished with Shellawax friction polish
Left Eucalyptus Right Birdseye Maple
Water Dyes are great under shellac, and my 1st preference mainly because they let the grain be the star. (More water dye selections at bottom of post)
Black japan watered down works well also but it can also be a handful if you're not really sure what you're doing. I used to get some of the tar, used for patching roads from the back of the council truck and add turpentine to get the thickness and colour I was after. Great for light golden walnut colour through to almost black.
Anyway, before you stain any antique... If it's marked up but the surface is in reasonably good nick. Not crazed or flaking off, etc I would try Polish Reviver which can get rid of old build-ups of wax, oil, Mr Sheen, Marveer and almost any other thing ever used on it and restore the piece to almost the original finish. Along the way it will get rid of damage from Alcohol, water, heat, smoke from open fires and the same from cigarettes, etc. It's not a miracle but pretty close.
If the old finish is in really bad repair don't muck around scraping or sanding get some paint stripper and remove the finish from the piece. Once you're done with the stripping etc then give the surface a wipe over with metho and you might be surprised at the colour and not want or need to add any colour to the piece at all. Maybe it could need some orange shellac rather than white (bleached) after all that's possibly what it was originally finished with when it was born.
Water Dyes: Our water dyes are mainly for small use like and with the intention of being used under our friction polishes. They are only sold in small 50ml batches and can be used to match some timber colours. Biggest things I know of, being died with ours are a number of guitars with sunburst patterns.
However, larger areas can be water dyed using other water dyes. All fabric dyes are fine for use under shellac have a look on line and you should find a number of different ones.
Go to Spotlight or similar where they have hobby stuff and have a look at their Dylon Fabric Dyes or RIT fabric dye or Rit Dye More Synthetic These dyes are basically for dying fabric but they work a treat on wood, are on the whole cheaper than ours are in bigger bottles and are more light resistant especially the Rit dye more synthetic.
Do a Google search for wood dye colours and you'll come up with heaps of them, both liquid and powdered to mix your own.
The last word(s): You can also use stains under shellac but be wary of what you use. Ideally you should use water or turpentine based stains because the shellac isn't compatible with then and will not pull them off the surface. Alcohol stains on the other hand can, on many woods be pulled of almost completely into the rubber because of the alcohol in the shellac.
Water and turps based stains can be watered down to give a translucent coat rather than look like paint which it sorta is... almost. This will let the grain show through rather than being blanketed beneath the stain. Won't be the star like water dye will make it but will be better than full strength stain.
Hope this has been of some information or interest. If you were interested but fell asleep during the reading of this tome, try to remember where you left off and start from there.
Apologies for any blatant adverts something may have slipped in whilst I was typing. :dunno:
It was probably accidental. :;
Cheers - Neil :U
