Lacquer

Seems like most of the people on the forum are not aware of these guys.

I buy most of my lacquer (BC 514), sealer (BC 512) and stains from them and they have worked a treat for me.

I have tried mirotone also, however, i found BC coating to be better to work with.

Dont remember how much i pay, i have not bought for some time, but i think i was only paying about 8-10 dollars a litre when you buy the 20 litre drum, the four litre was slightly more expensive.

They have a range of both precat and acid cat lacquers and sealers, part from polyurethane products.

I normally spray the stain first to desired colour, give it about 3-4 coats of sealers, and then sand using sponges. Normal sandpapers, hand or machined sanded , do get clogged up pretty easily.

This normally followed by 4-5 coats of lacquer which comes out pretty nice, normally i dont need to sand between coats for the lacquer, but i have done it in the past when i was not happy with the finish.

I use hvlp and find that i need to thin it to about 50% for it to come out nice, but it means the spray action has to be very fast else the drips happen.

hope this helps.

Harender

That's good to know (I haven't heard of BC before - live and learn)

Aaron - I don't use their sealer, I just use Hytec satin over the stain... I usually wait about 10 secs for the stain to dry, then satin over it...... wait 20-30 minutes, sand/scuff depending on the required finish, and then put finishing coat(s) on. Works a treat for me...

Geoff

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ubeaut

White Shellac or Hard Shellac won't change the colour of your timber any more than wetting it down with water and shouldn't change the colour of white paint when applied over it. It dries almost as fast as Nitro and precat lacquers and for hardness the Hard shellac is tougher than polyurethane and right up there with nitro etc.

It can be brushed, sprayed or padded (as in French polishing). Similar to what's known as padding lacquer in the USA main difference is that the shellac powder is dissolved in thinners rather than Ethanol to make padding lacquer and may have the addition of a small amount of oil.

Hard shellac pictured on website is a very bad photo of one of our old bottles it and is a light honey colour rather than the dark look in the picture. It is also cut by up to 4 parts ethanol (Methylated Spirits) to 1 part Shellac making it closer to the colour of Sanding Sealer pic.

Hope this is of a bit more help.

Cheers - Neil :U

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I have just noticed the posts from this one (above) on for some reason I stopped getting email notifications.

I stopped by just to confirm that Home Hardware, although having a fairly extensive range of MinWax products, are precluded by contract from taking "special orders" from the rest of the MinWax range (pretty dubious that isn't it?).

Neil, that hard shellac sounds perfect but at $41.25 for half a litre is a bit to pricey for my pocket UNLESS it is normal to cut it down? That is, you cut it down without it requiring twice the number of coats (for instance).

Interesting tip on cheap "metho" having up to 40% water - I didn't realise that.

Both Pylon Chemicals and BC Coatings sound great - what a pity they don't have a good distribution network.

Sorry should have Mentioned orders Over $150 they give free delivery
I am in Rosehill about 15 km from them not sure if they will offer that interstate but no harm in asking
Their Rep Peter is a nice guy and is happy to chat over The phone

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

This is why I wanted to try lacquer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyVPk...=youtube_gdata

I liked that. Very personable - that presenter.
We are a bit lacquer-deprived in this country. It seems this conversation has still not turned up any brushing lacquers, and the lack of a real good quality water based lacquer is a real hole in the market.

When I first wanted to try lacquer I just went and bought some aerosol cans of lacquer like that guy uses. They worked very well but cost meant not practical beyond the experimentation phase. I believe the Stylewood rattle cans are now $24 per can retail!

Cheers
Arron

Bunnings do sell lacquer. It is in a pressure pack (in their locked areas) under the white knight
label - comes in satin or gloss. I regularly use it. It is an acrylic lacquer. Drillit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Drillit

Bunnings do sell lacquer. It is in a pressure pack (in their locked areas) under the white knight
label - comes in satin or gloss. I regularly use it. It is an acrylic lacquer. Drillit.

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Got me excited there, but rang tech support at White Knight first, who said its not a lacquer but an acrylic enamel with spraying additives.

Depends on your definition of lacquer of course, but to me it lacks the essential qualities of having no or minimal chemical reaction on drying, and each coat full or partly melding with the coat below.

cheers
Arron

Wow! Talk about the situation being reversed - I found the following video interesting, surprising, and enlightening:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rn9o9vi4DEE

Comments on this definitely welcome.

Edit: Whoops - not as reversed as I thought - although he has an NA accent it appears he is located in Oz. Interesting channel tho'

I wondered why he was using a 50/50 mix as well as retarder - then I saw the name ''Barron River Guitars' so I guess thats what you have to do when spraying in the tropics.

Gary,next time you are in Sydney give me an email a day or two beforehand and I'll give you a quick handson intro to spraying lacquer - if you can make your way to Epping.

Cheers
Arron

I use NC Lacquer quite a bit.

I use the brand Pylon who are specialists in this type of finish.

You can also download the MSDS from their website which should be read prior to use the product.

You cannot mix polyurethane and lacquer or go over one or the other with a second coat as one is oil based and the other solvent based, makes a big mess.

you can also add pigments to lacquer if you want a different colour and they have at least gloss and satin.

Check out the Pylon website.

Good luck.


Router

Quote:

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Originally Posted by garym

Why didn't I try here in the first place - I knew of them!

http://www.globak.com.au/SPECIALTY-P...egorylist.aspx

Whilst the shipping makes it expensive I *think* I might be able to convince Home Hardware to get me some in as they have extended their range of MinWax products extensively in recent times (due to their connection with US giant Lowes).

This product is a mixture of Nitrocellulose and Coconut Alkyd, presumably the Alkyd helps with the brushing.

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They appear to have gone out of business.

These guys may do smaller quantities or a spray can, haven't used any of their products, or any lacquer since high school I believe.

Lacquers 55 102

The word "lacquer" is just a vague blanket term mainly used in the U.S and basically refers to pretty much any kind of oil,spirit based varnish or shellac.Pretty much anything that sets hard as a finish.

Chinese and Japanese cabinet makers would normally understand this to be a highly finished red or black coloured varnish made from the Asian lacquer tree
Toxicodendron vernicifluum

Sorry, have to disagree with your description of "lacquer".

First of all, it is in fairly common use throughout the English speaking world, including here in Australia.

It describes a finish that dries by solvent evaporation, not oxidisation (rules out most oil based finishes) or cross linking.

See here

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacquer