Lets hear your technique and see your results

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Originally Posted by garfield

So you just like the natural finish of the wood on most of your work then....

I have soooo much to learn.

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Well I'm pretty fortunate in that I've got a fair bit of really nice timber which has got plenty of colour. I do have a couple of utilitarian bits that I built years ago that I stained (with maple stain left from the boat building jobs:D). There's an aquarium stand/cabinet built completely from leftovers and scavenged stuff. Pine studs for the frame, pine lining boards for the panels and dressed pine for the door frames, plus the aquarium glass came from a shop fit job. I think I had to buy a fluro batten for the light box and a couple of gro light tubes. I stained it to disguise the mishmash of different pines and just to hide its pineyness. I also built an ironing board cabinet out of ply and it got the stain treatment also.

Generally I'll try to use a timber of whatever colour I'm after. But most people don't have access to a wide range of timbers and they're none of them cheap. There's nothing wrong with making stuff out of pine and staining it, especially as you're building your skills.

Mick

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Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

Well I'm pretty fortunate in that I've got a fair bit of really nice timber which has got plenty of colour. I do have a couple of utilitarian bits that I built years ago that I stained (with maple stain left from the boat building jobs:D). There's an aquarium stand/cabinet built completely from leftovers and scavenged stuff. Pine studs for the frame, pine lining boards for the panels and dressed pine for the door frames, plus the aquarium glass came from a shop fit job. I think I had to buy a fluro batten for the light box and a couple of gro light tubes. I stained it to disguise the mishmash of different pines and just to hide its pineyness. I also built an ironing board cabinet out of ply and it got the stain treatment also.

Generally I'll try to use a timber of whatever colour I'm after. But most people don't have access to a wide range of timbers and they're none of them cheap. There's nothing wrong with making stuff out of pine and staining it, especially as you're building your skills.

Mick

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Well I'm certainly trying to build my skills :U and this forum just helps out so much.

Thanks for your tips and technique Mick.

Geoff

Hi all,

Just a bit of a follow up to this thread.

Today I had the sand a piece to the unit I'm making and rather than hit it with the power sander I did it by hand. I started with a 80grit, 120, 240 and then finished off with a 320grit. I must say I ended up with a very smooth nice finish and after applying the stain it was completely different and a lot better than the rest of the unit.

So thanks to all for the tips.
Geoff

:2tsup::2tsup:

Pictures??:)

Please??:):wink::)

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Originally Posted by RufflyRustic

:2tsup::2tsup:

Pictures??:)

Please??:):wink::)

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I'll post some pictures tonight.

I started with a 1/3 sheet BOSCH orbital sander which was fine for average sanding work, though it didn't remove as much as I thought it would. I then added a Makita belt sander to really cut away and do heavy stock removal and finish off with the 1/3 sheet and then finish by hand but the final finsh still had swirl marks on it.

After a few years and much deliberation I bought a Festool ETS150/5 (random orbital sander with 5mm orbit) and the following grits 80/120/240/400. And it is by far the most usefull sander of them all - it is smooth to use, and gives a finish that I only thought possible by professionals. If you use the grits and a vacume to suck up all the dust and make sure that you keep moving it around and progressivly up the grit to the next level you will find yourself with a fantastic finish. Once I get past the 400 I use oregan oil hard burnishing oil and let it soak in, this raises the grain and then after 1 hour or so I sand (slightly wet) at 400 and then progress up to 800. -apply another coat - let it dry, give it another coat the next day, let it dry and then with a lambswool pad on a drill buff it with some wax and you will have a lovely shiny surface.

The Random orbital sander was something I thought I could do without but after using one and seeing the results it was clearly worth having and something I would hightly recommend!

Hope this helps!:U

I just won one of these on ebay. I hope it improves my sanding jobs.... see how it goes anyway. I'll be making sure that I finish off the last few grit by hand though.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/5-Random-Orbi...1%7C240%3A1318

The way I finish depends on what I'm making. As I do a lot of boxes & smaller stuff, this is what I do on them. A good finish depends on good preparation.
1. Scrape & oil your bench. Those little blobs of glue will leave dings that you won't see 'till it's too late.
2. Plane to size and remove any machine marks.
3. If there's any tear out, remove it using a scraper.
4. Sand through the grits to 800. If it's a large surface I use the ROS to 400. Let the weight of the ROS do the work, not you.
5. Vacuum the dust off the piece.
6. Use paper towels soaked in methylated spirits to clean the remaining dust off. Wipe each surface twice.
7. Check all surfaces very carefully for any small dings. They can be removed by steaming with an iron and damp towel if the fibres aren't broken, otherwise they will need to be scraped out. Lightly sand again after steaming or sanding
8. When the metho has dried off, apply a sealing coat of thinned shellac.
9. Give the shellac about an hour, then sand very lightly with 800.
10. Remove the sanding dust using a rag damped with white spirits.
11. When the white spirits has dried off, you are ready to start applying your finish. My preference is Kunos oil cut 50/50 with Bio thinners (both available from the Natural Paint place, Newtown NSW). Wear white cotton gloves while finishing, to prevent fingermarks.
12. Apply the first coat as a flood coat using a soft cloth. Leave it for 10-15 minutes, then wipe off any excess. Always wipe the oil on and off along the grain.
13. Allowing at least 12 hours between each coat, apply two more light coats. The cloth just needs to be damp with oil. Rub these coats in briskly.
14. Apply a final coat using 0000 steel wool. Don't rub too hard with the steel wool, and don't use too much oil. After 10 minutes, rub briskly with a clean cloth.
15. After about 12 hours, buff with a soft cloth. For a glossier finish apply a thin coat of UBeaut trad. wax and buff.

Thanks for the input Alexs.

Here's the pics Wendy. I'm really disappointed how the finish turned out but will know better next time.

Thanks
Geoff

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...5/DSCF0100.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...5/DSCF0101.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...5/DSCF0102.jpg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...5/DSCF0099.jpg

Hi Garfield,

Just looking at the pics, it appears you need to do more preparatory sanding before even thinking about the finish. Those dark ridges on the sides shouldn't be there. Also, you will probably find it easier if you finish the panels before gluing up, then you won't end up with a "bald patch" at the top.

Regards,

Rob

Hi Garfield, thanks for the pictures. :2tsup: Don't worry about being disappointed. In fact, be glad you can recognise this and know you are SOOO going to improve your finishing. (you have already started by reading through this thread) There is nothing so motivating as looking/using a woodwork project of your own where the finish is not what you were wanting ( :- yes, speaking from experience:B and lots of it)

Don't be disappointed, be glad that you are learning and that you can learn and your next project will be so much better for it. (I guess everyone knows now I'm a Glass Half Full girl :D)

You've made a good start, I can't wait to see your next project :)

cheers
Wendy

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Originally Posted by LGS

Hi Garfield,

Just looking at the pics, it appears you need to do more preparatory sanding before even thinking about the finish. Those dark ridges on the sides shouldn't be there. Also, you will probably find it easier if you finish the panels before gluing up, then you won't end up with a "bald patch" at the top.

Regards,

Rob

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Yeah I've had a shocker Rob. I learnt some valuable lessons from this thread but jumped the gun a bit and started on the finishing just before I started this thread.

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Originally Posted by RufflyRustic

Hi Garfield, thanks for the pictures. :2tsup: Don't worry about being disappointed. In fact, be glad you can recognise this and know you are SOOO going to improve your finishing. (you have already started by reading through this thread) There is nothing so motivating as looking/using a woodwork project of your own where the finish is not what you were wanting ( :- yes, speaking from experience:B and lots of it)

Don't be disappointed, be glad that you are learning and that you can learn and your next project will be so much better for it. (I guess everyone knows now I'm a Glass Half Full girl :D)

You've made a good start, I can't wait to see your next project :)

cheers
Wendy

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Thanks for the encouragement Wendy, and thanks for your post on this thread got the ball rolling and I've taken a lot more knowledge out of it.

Geoff

i suspect that there is a leg pull going on somewhere.

If this is radiata, it is notoriosly difficult to stain.
dont sand over 240 or it wont take a stain at all well.
as for the advise re the finish, seal with shellac and then whatever.

i sugest that you buy better timber for your next job or salvage some off the hard rubbish.

different timbers take different finishes and techniques differently, there are many books written on the subject:rolleyes:
depends on the tighness of the grain, the oil in the wood and heaps of other things.

If you want to make a pine bookshelf, stain the timber before you assemble it.
treat with 2-3 coats of shellac, cut back with 0000 steel wool and wax it.

Just started spraying spirit stains on radiata and the effect is amazing.

The person who is teaching me has many years of commercial furniture finishing experience.

With radiata he says, spray stain onto bare timber, spray sanding sealer on, adjust colour and and problem areas with spray stain again (very low pressure and volume is key here), then spray with pre-cat laquer.

For a more "grainy" look he recommends rubbing on the stain by hand in first step.

Very fast, durable finish, can be done within a day, does take a week or two to fully harden though and not suitable for table tops.

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Originally Posted by astrid

i suspect that there is a leg pull going on somewhere.

If this is radiata, it is notoriosly difficult to stain.
dont sand over 240 or it wont take a stain at all well.
as for the advise re the finish, seal with shellac and then whatever.

i sugest that you buy better timber for your next job or salvage some off the hard rubbish.

different timbers take different finishes and techniques differently, there are many books written on the subject:rolleyes:
depends on the tighness of the grain, the oil in the wood and heaps of other things.

If you want to make a pine bookshelf, stain the timber before you assemble it.
treat with 2-3 coats of shellac, cut back with 0000 steel wool and wax it.

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I think I had a lot to do with the finish though Astrid. I'd be more confident of a better finish next time - even using the same pine.

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Originally Posted by Cruzi

Just started spraying spirit stains on radiata and the effect is amazing.

The person who is teaching me has many years of commercial furniture finishing experience.

With radiata he says, spray stain onto bare timber, spray sanding sealer on, adjust colour and and problem areas with spray stain again (very low pressure and volume is key here), then spray with pre-cat laquer.

For a more "grainy" look he recommends rubbing on the stain by hand in first step.

Very fast, durable finish, can be done within a day, does take a week or two to fully harden though and not suitable for table tops.

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Any chance of seeing some pics of this amaizing finish Cruzi?

This is sprayed spirit stain, but final coats are 2 pac poly

http://www.cruzis-coins.com/tmp/proj4005.JPG

Pre-cat laquer finish over spirit stain

http://www.cruzis-coins.com/tmp/proj4001.JPG

Will get some pics later of some radiata stuff.

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Originally Posted by Cruzi

This is sprayed spirit stain, but final coats are 2 pac poly

Pre-cat laquer finish over spirit stain

Will get some pics later of some radiata stuff.

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So does the grain of the wood show through the spray stain?

Nice looking pieces there by the way :2tsup:

The grain does show through quite well, although with some darker stains, it does not have the same contrast, this can be fixed with the hand rubbing of the stain in first step.

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Originally Posted by Cruzi

The grain does show through quite well, although with some darker stains, it does not have the same contrast, this can be fixed with the hand rubbing of the stain in first step.

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Ok, look forward to seeing the pine that you have sprayed when you post the pictures.

I know this is an old thread but I've been taking my time searching through some old posts to get information on techniques before takling my first finish.

In reading through a few posts I've seen that people finish their projects first then assemble later in order to get a consistent finish across the piece and minimise any 'bald spots'.

Is this common practise when oiling or just applying a stain?

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Originally Posted by halminator

In reading through a few posts I've seen that people finish their projects first then assemble later in order to get a consistent finish across the piece and minimise any 'bald spots'.

Is this common practise when oiling or just applying a stain?

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It is just easier to finish a flat piece then one with several corners. Also note that finish should be avoided where the pieces are to be glued.