It would be OK to put just the frame up just don't put the roofing on until the footing concrete has gone off. This certainly is the best way to get every thing plumb and square.
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I think you would find that if it was poured in combination with your footings they would require an engineers certificate for the slab, but a separately poured slab shouldn't matter as your footings are designed to hold your carport down/up so the slab shouldn't come into the equation.
I still have some distaste for this detail. I can't see it clearly enough in the pic, but there may be something shown between the top of the footing and the bottom of the slab. Without cushioning, the slab is subject to cracking in the vicinity of the post under vertical loads inboard on the slab. About 12-25mm of something very soft, like styrofoam with a crushing strength on the order of 1 psi (7kPa, I think) should help.
Joe
... and I have a storm water connection :)
http://images19.fotki.com/v286/photo...MG_0014-vi.jpg
Have ypu checked on the cost of just getting some ready mix.
I live in Japan now so don't know the costs in OZ now but...
Call the conrete supply company and get a quote. You'll only need a barrow and maybe a vibrator if your really want. If the conrete truck has access to the site you may not even need a barrow. It may be a little more expensive. But way that little bit against the time and back strain mixing it yourself. And you will be making a mess mixing it yourself. More to clean up afterwards. Also if there is a little left over the conrete supply company will deal with it.
What do you blokes in the know reckon?
I ended up buying 4 bags of cement and 1/4m3 of premix. Cost less than $50. Even managed to borrow the trailer from Bunnings, did you know that if you buy anything (like, anything at all - even a light bulb) from Bunnings you can hire their trailer for free for two hours??? :)
If you've already done the concreting then ignore the following, else (and I assume your using a mixer) ...
Get yourself a strong 10lt plastic bucket (heavy plastic like what paint comes in) and just a normal bucket that has litre markings on it (and a strong handle).
Put 2 full buckets of all-in into the mixer, then add a bucket of cement then add another 2 buckets of all-in (helps you remember how many you have put in - only need to count to 2 :D).
After is all goes a uniform grey colour, slowly add 7 litres of water (using the normal bucket).
Wait until it is all mixed (maybe a couple of minutes), then pour.
Too easy ....
Thanks heaps for the tip Vernonv :) Was sort of planning to do that already, although hadn't actually bought a bucket... And no, no mixer, just the wheel barrow and shovel... Or maybe I should get a mixer...
In any case, had to modify some downpipes today, they were in the way. Then started to put the carport up. To the Titan salesman who told me that one person should be able to do it by himself, I say "HA - yeah right..." It probably doesn't help that I weigh in at a piddly 54kg, but even if I was big and burly I think I'd struggle in a large way to put it up by myself...
http://images33.fotki.com/v1141/phot...MG_0022-vi.jpg
The frame is up, we were hoping to get the footings done today too, but I think that'll have to wait for another day. It's sitting very short at the moment (and very very not level), it'll have to be lifted up about 200mm on one side and about 100mm on the other side (to get it level with the house), and the front will probably need to be lifted up at least as much (there is massive fall on the right front at the moment, my garden is really not level and I think I dug the front right hole too deep due to the storm water piping... Might fill it back in a little)
Question: The Titan salesman recommended hiring some props to help lift and get the frame level. How do you stop the frame from falling off the props? At the moment it sort of leans to one side. Apart from the house, there isn't really anything solid to tie it to. I thought of pegs in the ground, but the frame is really quite heavy, I don't think pegs are going to do much.
Anyway, thanks heaps for all your help. Next weekend will hopefully be spent levelling and squaring the frame up, and pouring the footings.
YAY!
probably 3 or 4 20kg bags per hole at about $10 per bag, do not use rapid set, has a lower MPA than standard concrete / conmix, yes, the pre mixed bags you get from the likes of bunnings
$25 per bag sounds more like 40kg bags
cement = that grey powder, no sand, no stoneQuote:
Do you mean cement or concrete? I'm getting a little confused :)
concrete / conmix = the grey powder with sand & stone :)
Demuire, did you use a bevel... the posts don't appear straight to me :).
I had the same problem with a stormwater pipe. Needed to relocate the pipe some 300mm away for some 6 metres to the pit (used two 45 degree elbows cemented together).
I solved the big hole issue by making a sheet metal cylinder 300mm x 600mm, filled the soil around it and was left with a neat hole. In fact decided to do that with all the holes which also allowed me to place the footers in their exact positions and level with the others.
Council inspector was quite happy about that all. Then filled the holes with concrete.
Well, it's all painted and the roof is up:
http://images34.fotki.com/v1125/phot...MG_0036-vi.jpg
I need to finish putting screws in the roof (I've got about 1/3 of them in at the moment), trim the roof down (it's too wide, I didn't know I could "squash" the sheets in when I started screwing them in), put on the gutter and the trim around the edge of the roof (I forget what they're called), and then I guess it's done! It's taken waaaay longer than I'd like, but I suppose I've also saved myself some $1500 or something...
Hey demuire looks good mate now its time to relax and have a bash to celebrate the good work.