Neighbours landscaping has removed supporting soil from tall fence posts

Barry, all I can add is DON'T MAKE THE RETAINING WALL YOUR PROBLEM.

Politely ask the neighbours when the retaining structure will be completed so that you can back fill your side of the fence.
Depending on the response, you may wish to get Council involved relatively quickly.

Acknowledged.
Thanks again.

http://www.hyne.com.au/documents/Fea...alls_final.pdf
That PDF is for Queensland (2014) and NOT Victoria.

https://www.boroondara.vic.gov.au/ab...retaining-wall


Got the measuring tape out.

All less than 400mm difference in soil levels.
Excluding about 600mm to the tree which is filled with roots.

So can't ask/won't be asking the neighbours to build a retaining wall.

if we want to or not to plant on our side:
We'll need to keep our soil from getting washed away from our side.

The lady has given the go ahead on me figuring out what to do.
The plan from her is to keep me busy (and out of her hair).
So won't be paying someone else to do it.

Barry,
your neighbours have EXCAVATED their property to the extent that the soil on your side of the common boundary (and part of your garage slab?) is no longer properly supported. I believe the term is "removed the existing natural support" to the soil on your side of the fence.
Now the depth of excavation may not be as deep as meets your council's definition of a retaining wall, but you are under no OBLIGATION to prevent soil and other material washing into your neighbour's yard because it is their actions which are "responsible".

Now I understand that you want to be a good co-operative neighbour, so I encourage you to work with your neighbour to find a solution that stops your soil washing into their property. Not knowing relative costs, the solutions that come to mind for the low height you have quoted are:
1. treated pine fence palings supported by the fence posts and intermediate star pickets.
2. H5 treated pine 4x2s supported by the fence posts and intermediate star pickets.
3. one or two rows of besser blocks filled with soil. If you used two rows they would just be stacked on each other.
4. a brick wall around 5 courses high.

all of which could be installed on the boundary, and in the case of 1 and 2 would look pretty ordinary on the neighbour's side.


I think you need to keep in mind that a future owner of the neighbouring property might insist on you removing the tree your good lady so admires because it's roots are exposed on their side of the boundary.
This is something you need to resolve now in a way that DOES NOT involve you accepting that future problems with the tree or its roots are your "responsibility".

Just spent the week waxing the kitchen cupboards doors.
about 20 to 30 hours cleaning the build up out of the corners.
Nice and shinny now.
LOL What a waste of miserable time. Felt like I was being tortured. LOL
So glad to have finished yesterday morning and spent the rest of the day planning the retaining wall.

I'm just happy to out of the kitchen onto something else.


opted for
200 x 50 H4 treated pine sleepers in 2mtr lengths.
(expecting occasional watering of pot plants run off.
There is a 30 cm/1ft gap between the fence and the rain water guttering
the fence is taller than the rain water guttering by 1ft to 2 ft
so expect very little water exposure
have taken the precaution of purchasing bondall water based bitumen waterproofing membrane for the treated pine sleepers)

have gone with whites outdoor 450 x 50mm Retain-iT Joint Post
https://www.bunnings.com.au/whites-o...-post_p1100440
250 in the ground and 200 for the sleepers

planning on covering the steel posts with the bitumen as well unless otherwise advised.
Stupid expensive I know.
Still juggling whether to just pond them into the hard clay and rely upon the 900mm deep posts from the fence repair for support.

Some of the plinth has been eaten away
I've already purchased the plinth replacement timber for ~$12.
I'll bitumen one side to match the black of the plinth and fence on their side.
No big deal.

$60 for 4lt of the bitumen. 1.4m2 per lt. frak!
The bondall rep told me to mix 1 part bitumen and 1 part water to use and an undercoat.
And then apply two more coats of the bitumen.

A lot of work. But still better than waxing kitchen cupboards.
I swear I remember an antique repair place quoting $3000 to clean the cupboard doors.
It might have been $1000 and I tell my lady it $3000 to get 3 times the credit. LOL
AND thats with me bringing them the doors. LOL

Not supposed to apply the bitumen < 10° nor above 80% humidity.
Rep said you can but the drying and curing times will be much slower.

Had a fair go a digging but the hands started cramping so taking the rest of the day to plan.

Bit of positive progress today.

Replaced the rotted plinth.

The Good Lady caught me painting the bitumen.
Asked me to go ahead and apply it to our side as well.

She's the boss. It'll keep me busy longer.
Too easy.

Getting warmed up for a bit more digging tomorrow.
Gonna try and just hammer the end and joining metal posts to see how secure they are.
Don't wanna dig 250mm/10" x 5 and cement them in unless I have to.