Hi, could you please upload a photo of the hairline crack in the baseplate. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by dentree
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Hi, could you please upload a photo of the hairline crack in the baseplate. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by dentree
do you have any pics of hairline crack?
Howdo all.Well I bought one of these Swarts 12" blade units a couple days before moving to Tassie. Been using it to cut wall frames & seasoned 80 y o blackwood floor boards. 2000W motor & double bevel made doing these jobs easy compared to using my `04 Triton circular saw which I love using also. gordo
I came in based on a search for Swarts reviews. I've jsut ordered 100 cut off wheels and will report back on how those fair compared to the flexovits and smith and arrows I've been using (mostly flexovits)
This has been an interesting thread which I have been following for some time. Today I took the plunge and bought one off ebay, due to the fact that they are out of stock and waiting for the next shipment to arrive they still allow you to place an order with the bonus of paying $379.00 and free shipping within Australia.
Swarts Tools have advised me that it will be shipped to me around the 10 October 2016; so once I have the machine I will put it through it paces and follow up with a review.
Cheers until the review.
G'Day All,
Well, I ordered a SCMS yesterday fromSwarts in Sydney and received it today in Victoria, great turnaround. I unpacked it and set it up and it was square to .1 of a degree right out of the box, I am a bit of a pain in the bum about 'square' so I'll just bring into exact 90.0 degrees when the need arises, the fence was 90.0 to the top, unbelievable, I have had a few of these saws and I haven't seen this kind of accuracy out of the box. Hooked it up to my shop vac and it removed a fair bit of the dust. My shop vac is a home made cyclonic unit attached to a rather weak karcher shop vac. All in all a great unit, the test cut pieces were as smooth as, requiring very little if any sanding depending on the job. So far it looks like great value for money. Will add some more comments down the track as an update. Hope their other tools are just as good, looking to buy their linisher/disc sander unit.
UPDATE - REVIEWThe 100 125 x 1mm cutoff wheels arrived last week - minimalist packaging, and everything OK.The wheels are comparable to the flexovit ultracuts I was using on the job just before - in fact I took one cut on some 1" heavy wall galv pipe with the flexovit, then changed the wheel/disc for one of the swarts discs and made all the remaining cuts using that...the wear rate, and cutting effort seemed pretty similar.I did get a pinch and blow one wheel apart - NOT swarts fault, and noticed the internal construction (weave of the mesh, etc) was similar to some of the other wheels I've broken over the years.so, based on my anecdotal (unscientific) testing, I'd say the swarts 125mm x 1 cutoff wheels are comparable to flexovits, and priced quite well. I will be buying more of them in the future.DesQuote:
Originally Posted by desbromilow
Hi Mr Brush,
Im sorry for the late reply, I didn't see the message come through the forum.
Yes we have had a few back orders lately on the saws, the demand for the saw is rising I believe a lot to do with the great reviews the people have been so kind to write on this page. We are catching up with the demand but a couple of set back in the manufacturing process and then extended lead times got in the way a bit.
We do have them in stock now though and they are available for immediate delivery.
If we are ever out of stock though some of our stockists may still have them like Timbecon in Melbourne and Perth.
Sincerely
Samuel Jones
General Manager
Swarts Tools
Hi Gabstar,
Thank you very much for your review, I`m really glad you are happy with it.
Yes as you noticed it was pretty accurate out of the box, that something that we pride ourselves on. Many people don't realise as very few companies do it anymore but every single tool whether it be a $5 Multi-tool Blade or a $399 12" Mitre saw is pulled out of the box and given a full quality control here in our Sydney warehouse. We spend about 15 minutes on every single Mitre Saw setting the accuracy and checking the quality before it goes out for delivery to the customer. This is the only way we ensure that we have one of the lowest failure rates in the industry (currently at about 0.01%) as well as supporting the Australian economy by creating jobs.
Thank you
Samuel Jones
General Manager
Swarts Tools
Hi Desbromilow,
Thank you for your review, I'm really glad to see you are happy with them.
We put a tremendous amount of work into the testing of our abrasive discs and its great to see it paying off, we pride ourselves by not on being one of the highest quality discs on the market but also one of the cheapest.
Be sure to keep an eye on our Metal Fabrication range as its growing rapidly by order of popular demand. Just in the last 3 months We have released #40, #60, #80 & #120 Grit Cubic Zirconia Flap Discs, 4.5" and 9" Ultra Thin Angle Grinder cutting Discs and 4" & 5" 6mm Thick Angle Grinder Grinding Discs.
Thank you
Samuel Jones
General Manager
Swarts Tools
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by digamma
I'm sorry I didn't get back to you sooner I didn't see your post.
That's perfectly normal, there is a transformer in the handle of the saw the turns the 240V electricity to 12V to power the laser. It will stay warm as long as the saw is plugged in even if the laser is off as the transformer is wried in before the laser switch. There are similar transformers in most saws with built-in lasers they are just in different spots. The heat will never do any damage. It great that you checked though.
Thank you
Samuel Jones
General Manager
Swarts Tools
I want a SCMS for workshop weekend use only. I want it to be easy to get v. accurate cuts.
I have been saving up for one of these 2000W 305mm saws from Swarts. (Was thinking about buying their sander at the same time). However now Bunnings has a Bosch (green) 1800W 254mm sliding compound mitre saw with a laser, metric gauges, clamp, extensions and other features I was looking for. It is $373.
From my point of view they both seem to do everything I want.
The price is basically the same. $389 for the Swart, $373 for the Bosch.
I was impressed with the customer service and reported accuracy of the Swarts SCMS on this thread.
I haven't tried this Bosch but I have owned plenty of other Bosch (green) tools over the years and have always been happy with them.
Pros and Cons:
The Swart has a 305mm blade, the Bosch is 254mm.
This translates to a 102mm cut depth for the Swart vs a 80mm cut for the Bosch. (According to specs).
I trust Bosch and I have always had a good experience if I ever returned anything to Bunnings - even many months after purchase without a receipt (which if course costs me nothing to do).
Returning something to Swart is obviously going to be expensive, with no guarantee they will accept it as a warranty claim.
I wanted the 305mm blade but the ease and confidence of being able to address any warranty issue puts the Bosch in the lead for me.
So now I'm trying to decide how important that extra depth of cut really is......
Anyone tried out a Bosch PCM 1800 SD for accuracy?
Please let me know if Swarts lowers their price on this saw because that would obviously change my calculations.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveVman
Hi Dave,
This is Sam Jones- I am the owner and General Manager of Swarts Tools. I saw your post come through so I just wanted to see if I could answer a few of your questions straight from the horses mouth.
They are both great saws. I am very familiar with the Bosch saw, as they are made by the same factory and I work with the same design team that Bosch used.
You had a concern about the warranty process which is always important. I want you to know we never ever leave our customers out of pocket- I think it is absolutely horrible that some companies make their customers pay for a fault caused by the factory. The only time you would ever have to pay return costs is if after you returned it we found either it was not faulty or you misused the saw.
If you were to have a warranty you can either ring me up or email me and I will immediately arrange a Toll Ipec pickup to collect the saw from you, at our expense. We then generally repair or replace the warranty within 24 hours of receiving it and then send it right back. In saying that, warranties are not very common because of our strict Australian quality control. I haven't had a single saw come back under warranty in the last three years.
We are also very flexible with our warranty process and approach each case individually. We focus on you, the customer, to suit your requirements because one size does not ever fit all.
We also have a longer warranty than Bosch as theirs is 24 months compared to our 36 month.
I thought I would also point out a few key features that our saw has that the Bosch saw does not.
1. Double Bevel: The Swarts saw you can bevel to the left or the right making repeatable cuts easily without needing to always flip or spin your timber.
2. 100 Tooth Blade: Our saw has a ultra fine cutting 100 tooth TCT saw blade that gives a brilliant finish.
3. Front Mount Vice: The saw has a unique front mount quick set horizontal vice like a metal saw so you can very quickly secure your job.
4. Internal Sliding Mechanism: As you would have seen in the pictures, our rail slides are quite unique. They are fixed and the swing arm moves along them meaning that you can put the saw on a bench right up against a wall and not have the rails coming out the back hitting the wall. The rails stay in one place and only the swing arm moves.
5.Cutting Capacity: As you mentioned, we have a larger cutting depth however we also have a much longer stroke at a massive 340mm which I think is very important.
There are plenty more great features like these but I will not ramble on. They are all listed on our website though.
I hope that my post will help you make your decision and please feel free if you have any further questions to email me on [email protected] or write back on the forum.
P.S If you email me and are interested in both the sander and the saw I can put together a great package deal for you to lower that price a bit.
Thank you
Samuel Jones
General Manager
Swarts Tools
Point 4 is a big win for me.
I do not have the swarts SCMS for fact that I already have the DeWalt 12" with a max depth of about 120mm.
Having zero clearance on a wall is a big big win especially if you have limited space. I had considered the bosch glider (high end and expensive) but it is too heavy as an everyday user to take in and out of the vehicle.
One day when my DeWalt has had the gong I will revisit the swarts. I have other tools from them and as yet have no found one Inwould not personally recommend.
Point 1 led to me returning a saw I was allowed to test prior to purchase. It only laid over in one dirrection
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
I think it's AWESOME that a manufacturer and importer is on the forum supporting the products they sell.
Its a neck to strangle if there's a problem, but it shows confidence. There wouldn't be a person here who doesn't want to support a local player.
I've been considering an SCMS for some time. I've hesitated as its a nice-to-have, but after rereading everything here, looking at the ebay offer and thinking about how trivial $379 is in the big picture, I'll be buying one.
Thanks to DaveTTC too. If any bloke knows the daily use of an SCMS its him. Big vote there.
Looking into this more closely.... The Swarts SCMS comes with a 100 tooth blade. The Bosch comes with 40 tooth blade. I hadn't noticed that when I first compared them.
The stroke at 340mm vs 335mm is the same on both but they are not the same saw of course. The Swarts is 305mm and the Bosch is 254mm. Which translates into 105mm depth for Swarts SW1045 vs 80mm for the PCM 1800 SD. I keep thinking that cut depth will eventually be important to me.
I'm not sure if this post belongs here, but the Swarts SCMS is available for 20% on Ebay for a short period ($320 delivered until Jan 15) using code CSITE20. I don't have a need for one (already have a SCMS) but it sounds like a bargain to me so thought it worth posting in case anyone was considering a purchase.
I just bought mine in time for Xmas. I am happy with it. I will write up a review with some pics later.
In the meantime I can recommend this SCMS. Definately value for $320.
As promised here is my review of the 305mm SWARTS Tools SCMS. I have no conflict of interests or advantage/disadvantages with discussing any tool manufacturer/supplier.
In a perfect world I would have bought a top of the line 305mm Bosch Blue Glide Saw with double laser. These have come down in price and are now $1029. However both the 305mm Swarts SCMS and the Bosch 235mm PCM 1800 SD are about one third of that price and actually in my budget range. There may also be other similar ones but I liked the features of these two. You can read my earlier post about comparing these 2 saws.
In the end I did not want to do without the 100+mm cutting depth of the 305mm saw. However what sealed the deal for me was when Samuel at Swarts pointed out something I had initially overlooked. The Swarts tools machine comes fitted with a 100 tooth blade. The Bosch PCM 1800 SD comes with a 40 tooth blade that I would want to swap out. This in effect makes the Swarts tools machine actually cheaper yet it is 305mm saw versus the 235mm Bosch. I also got a small discount by ordering the saw with another tool. I’ll write a review of the shop vac separately.
The Swarts SCMS has fixed rails that the saw slides on. Other saws in this price range have the rails moving. When mounted in a workshop, this gives the Swarts machine an advantage because you’re never in doubt about how much space is required behind the machine.
I finally ordered my tools the week before Christmas. The process is easy, efficient and there are different payment options. Samuel was very helpful. He was out of stock and his new stock was held up in Customs. He explained this to me immediately. He didn’t take my money until he was sure that he could supply the items promptly. In the end Customs released the container earlier than expected and I got my new machines in time for Christmas.
The courier Swarts uses is fantastic. The guy not only waited for us to answer the door but he had a quiet word with my wife before I could come to the door. He said he didn’t want to come rolling down the drive with the boxes in case it was a surprise Christmas present.
The saw is very well packed. In fact I wish I had the space to keep the box and packing in case we move house. In my case the slider on the saw was not locked. This meant when I first lifted the saw up, the entire thing slid back and put a lot of strain on my bad back as I lifted it out of the box. It is possible that in the rush to get this to me in time for Christmas somethings were overlooked.
The instructions and setup adjustments are clearly documented. Some people have reported the saw being accurate right out of the box. Mine was accurate on one axis but not the other. I needed to adjust the vertical alignment. Unfortunately, that particular adjustment requires a very long 4mm Allen key down 2 long slots to some hex keys that you can not see. The Allen key supplied with the saw is not long enough. Fortunately I have a tool that does this but others might not be so lucky. The adjustment screws are down the holes at the back of the machine as indicated on the pic.
Attachment 404100
Everything else seemed to be in alignment so I didn’t need to make any other adjustments and went ahead and made some test cuts. They were all fine so far.
Attachment 404101
When I was deciding which saw to buy, Samuel from Swarts listed their extra clamp as an advantage. I took little notice of this at the time. However right from the first moment I used the saw I realised the advantage of this unique clamp. The SCMS comes with a vertical clamp like other similar saws. It also comes with a horizontal clamp as shown on the left in the picture above. This is a quick release clamp and so it is very fast and easy to clamp your work piece this way. It also ensures the work is hard against the fence. I hadn’t noticed my scrap wood in the photo was not square until I put it in this clamp. Both clamps can be mounted on either side.
The laser is on a separate switch than the blade so you can take your time setting up your cut. You have to remember to turn the laser off but this is not an issue for me, since all tools get turned off at the end of the day. The laser can not be adjusted. This is my only disappointment with this saw. I would have liked to micro adjust the laser to allow for the thickness of the blade. Not being able to do this diminishes the purpose of the laser in my view.
Attachment 404102
The saw comes with a dust bag, which is about as useful and any of these kinds of things. Which is to say, it is more of less a waste of time just like on all the other similar tools. Here it is after some test cuts and inside it is basically empty.
Attachment 404103
However there is some good news. The bag can be pulled inside out. It is only held on with a replaceable zip tie.
Attachment 404104
This zip tie can be cut and you are left with a perfect fitting that includes a wire support for a 50mm flex.
Attachment 404105
I bought a large 50mm flex with my cyclone and it fits perfectly onto this fitting with a band clamp. I can then plug or unplug this assembly from the SCMS. The wire sits inside the hose and stops it drooping immediately when it leaves the saw.
Attachment 404106
Of course, like all SCMS most of the dust is kicked out by the blade and not caught by this dust port but that is another topic entirely.
I have been able to run my shop vac, radio, fan and this saw at the same time on a single 10A circuit without any problems. I’m not sure that would be the case if I was cutting 100mm hardwood but so far so good. I have picked it up and moved it around a few times but in my case this is not normally necessary. It weighs 21kg. You can buy a stand for it from Swarts if you work on site but I bought it to live in my workshop.
The pictures you see here are me testing it on my assembly table. It lived there for a couple of weeks. I have now set it up on it’s own table that is on large casters so I can easily move it around the shed or even outside. The front casters are lockable. (I like to work outside in the car port but it is not flat). At some stage I might build a special cabinet for it.
The cuts are accurate and smooth. I have been using it as a drop saw and cross cut saw on pine, MDF and plastic. The 340mm width capacity has been helpful already. I’m very pleased with the saw thus far. I have various mitres and bevels to do soon so it will get a real test over the next 3 months or so.
As mentioned, Samuel from Swarts Tools is a pleasure to deal with and I wish all our deliveries came from the courier they use.
I am no expert on SCMS but this is definitely better than the cheaper ones my family and friends have. At the time I did my research it was the best value for money in my opinion. I’d recommend it to you.
So I hope this review is useful. I’ll try to remember to come back and give you an update once I have done those projects where I need various mitres and bevels.
I only found this thread yesterday due to my Electra Beckum SCMC having a problem. Blade would stall and stop spinning when applied to the timber and the blade seemed to have a very minor delay time from turning it on until the blade started spinning...only very small delay but perceptible. After the usual checking that the blade was seated properly & Arbor nut was tight, I proceeded to take it apart.
I discovered that with the blade off , I could apply pressure to the spindle with a piece of timber while it was spinning and I could stop it spinning with a minimum of pressure while the motor happily kept going.
Removed the motor and checked out the spiral thread gear on the motor and that look ok. I can only surmise that the gear/cog inside the spindle assemble is stuffed.
So either I look for parts to fix it or purchase a new SCMS...the EB went under in the 2011 flood through my shed but I resurrected it and has been a great little saw....which brings me to here.....I checked out the Makita LS1016 at Trade Tools and that looked a fine machine but price wise it is in the upper level. It has a 250mm blade. I will have a look at the Swart website and see if their SCMS checks out OK for my needs.
It would be a big jump up in blade size from the EB, it's blade is only 210mm
The larger Saw blade obviously has a deeper cut capacity. It might well have a larger cross cut capacity than yours. From memory the 305mm SWARTS has 340mm and the 235mm Bosch has 335mm but I think most 235mm saws have less capacity.
I have come to suspect that a decent 305mm saw also produces a finer cut on these wider bits of wood. Perhaps someone with more experience than me can comment on that.
Whatever you go for use an 80 or 100 tooth blade unless you are just cutting framework. The difference in cut quality is dramatic.
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
My current EB only has 255mm cross cut capacity
I got a PM about some of the dimensions of the SWARTS 305mm saw. The site kept crashing when I tried to reply so I'll put some pictures up here for those interested in dimensions.
Attachment 405157Attachment 405158Attachment 405159Attachment 405160Attachment 405161
OK ....decided to give them a go.
Ordered 1 today so will let you know when it arrives then I'll give it a run and post my opinions.
You won't be disappointed. Cuts like a dream. Hardly any sanding required.Quote:
Originally Posted by skot
Step 1....Great service
Ordered the saw yesterday and has just arrived 1 day later.
Off to a good start
OK....First initial opinion
Out of the Box - Initial Checks
1) Blade is square to fence...maybe minor adjustment required.
2) Bevel adjustment
The Blade is a couple of degrees off 0° when in locked 0° stop position, so I have to adjust.
Minor annoyance with this adjustment is that the allen screws that need to be loosened to allow the adjustment are located inside the rear housing and only accessible through 2 holes in the casting and are approx 45mm down the hole. The supplied 4mm allen key is only 50mm long so 1st you have to prod & poke around in the hole to engage the shank of the key. When engaged the angled section of the key is only JUST outside the back of the saw. This does not allow too much leverage to hold the key in place and loosen the screws, I will have to source a longer 4mm allen key with possibly a T handle on the end (similar to lathe chuck keys) for easier adjustment.
I believe I will only have to do this once so not a HUGE problem.
3)Laser.....
Laser works but there is a VOID area that the laser does not reach that is the laser does not project down to 0,0 which is where the table meets the fence which is not required because otherwise you would be cutting a human hair BUT the void area is a triangular section approx 65mm x 65mm. I have attached a file to roughly illustrate the geometry. I will check more about this this afternoon but at the moment it appears that the laser will not strike the face of the timber under my "65" rule (lets call it "65" rule for the moment). This means you add the width of the 2 sides of the piece of timber that you wish to cut....eg a 35x75 wall stud = 110.....19x12 molding = 31 etc. IF the resultant answer is under 65, then the laser will miss the timber and not show any line. If the answer is JUST over 65, the laser will clip the top edge but not show all the way across. Obviously if the timber is 65mm high you will get a full laser line across the face.
Remedy for future model upgrades would be to lengthen, in a downwards direction, the hole in the casting which the laser projects through BUT this would require a changed mold in the factory and may not be viable unless a new mold is required for future upgrades of the saw.
Attachment 405595
4) Cut
Did a few test cuts and very impressed. The 100 tooth blade produces a magnificent finish on the cut. The cut surface looked like it had been finely sanded or polished....my previous SCMS could not produce such a lovely finish.
Well that's my initial opinions....now it's back to the shed to do the bevel adjustment and see if anything else pops up.
Cheers
Scott
2nd Instalment.......
I have now had a better play with my new saw and want to add/clarify some of the items from my earlier post
1) Blade square to Fence in 0° locked cross cut position ?....as mentioned this was not the case out of the box but it only needed a minor adjustment.
The misalignment may not have been noticable on smaller pieces of timber but this machine can cut a width of 340mm. Over that distance any misalignment will show up by the end of the cut.
NOTE: To Sam (Swart Tools)..the booklet that comes with the machine covers adjustment for blade to the table BUT NOT blade to the fence. As much as quality control may insist that the saw & fence are square in the 0° position...where ever a component is fixed by bolts/screws, there is the possibility of misalignment.
Although the book didn't cover the realignment, I was able to work it out quickly. The fence is fixed to the table by 4 x 6mm bolts with allen heads (2 each end of the fence...see pic below) access from the top of the fence.Those black holes that you can see inside the slot.
Attachment 405612
a) Engage the fence into the locked position at 0°
b) Slightly loosen the 4 bolts
c) Using a square against the fence, rotate the fence until the other face of the square is parallel or flat against the blade's face
d) Carefully tighten the bolts and check that the blade is still square to the fence
e) Re Zero pointer on the protractor on front of machine.
2) Bevel Adjustment
The adjustment worked perfectly as per the Instruction Book's directions but as mentioned the allen key provided is not the easiest tool to use due to the location of the adjustment screws and the size of the key. I took a quick trip to my local Autobarn Auto shop and purchased this set of 8 metric hex spanners for $25....worth every cent....the 4mm spanner was easy to manoeuvre into position and the bolts were easy to loosen. I just add this to my growing collection of tools and they can be used for other jobs (the 6mm one was used for the adjustment above)
Attachment 405613
3) Laser
Now that the blade is adjusted to the table & fence, it was time to check the laser . It is spot on....I scribed pencil lines onto some test timber using both my 90° square & 45° mitre square and tested against the laser.
Laser line was spot on and the left hand side of the blade came right on top and along the laser line....Very happy bunny
Attachment 405614 Attachment 405615 Attachment 405619 Attachment 405620 Attachment 405616 Attachment 405618
4) Cuts
As mentioned previously , the finished cut is very nice.
Attachment 405631
NOTE:
a) This is not a soft start machine.....with a 2000w motor spinning a 305mm dia blade it gives a little kick on startup. Pull the trigger let it find it's resonance & balance for a millisecond then move into the cut.
b) As mentioned by a previous poster on the forum....the handle does have a tendency to heat up due to the laser transformer located inside the handle. It is not so hot that you can not touch it but you will notice it's warmth. Only time will tell over the years whether this heat will affect the plastic handle.
Conclusion:
Although I have only worked with this saw for 1 day and it's long term endurance is yet to be tested, I believe for the money (mine was $379 delivered to my door) it is a very good saw with capabilities to match the $800 - $1000 range saws.
It's finish may not be as "polished" as the high ends and some of the castings may not look like the quality of Festool or Makita high end product but for the outlay it may just be worth the punt.
This is purely my impression after the first day , some adjustments were needed and the laser's void area could have been fixed by a 3mm slot at the bottom the the laser window so that it catered for smaller timber pieces but all and all I think I can live with it.
PS. The attached pic at the bottom ↓ of this post is after the cut was performed...the laser line appears along the cut line.
Cheers
Scott
As you lower the blade does the laser swing in towards the fence?
DaveTTC
Turning Wood into Art
Dave,
If I remember correctly...No
The laser is attached to the stationary body of the machine so as the blade lowers it starts to block the laser line. I will have to check that again tomorrow but I think that is what happened.
Pic 1 is looking from front of machine ...you can see the laser at the back and the rectangular hole in the body for the beam to pass through
Attachment 405638
Pic 2 is looking down from above the laser ...just near those glide rails.
Attachment 405639
Laser & the hole for the beam do not alter position
I should also have asked as you slide the saw along the rails how does this efffwct the laser. Personally I dont know that I would ever use a laser for cutting but you raise some valid points for those who do or would
DaveTTC
Turning Wood into Art
My previous SCMS was an Electra Beckum and I never had a laser on that machine and that was in use for over 15 years.
It may be a bit gimmicky but I can see that instead of constantly lowering and raising the blade to check the blades location against a pencil line....the laser tells you straight away where the edge of the blade will hit the line on the timber.
The blade may not block out the laser but the line stays in the same position.
As I mentioned earlier, this laser lines up with the LH face of the blade so you can still see the laser line while the blade cuts along it.
If I have time tomorrow , I will make a short video of a cut in action with the laser line so it makes it clearer.
I should be able to post it tomorrow arvo some time.
3rd Instalment
I hope I am more attentive to my projects them I am to the workings of this saw......
DaveTTc,
The Laser is not fixed to the stationary body...it is fixed to the sliding saw section.
This now means I have to take back my remarks & comments about the 65 x 65 void area. The void does occur when the sliding arm is in the full back position. If the slider was fixed by the glide adjustment screw and used as a type of fixed chop saw without the slide... the void exists. Once you start to slide the arm forward, the laser clears the section of machine body where the beam window exists and then creates a beam down into this previously void area BUT this is fleeting as you continue to pull the saw forward, the laser then passes in front of the fence and the line disappears from the work piece.
The laser line disappears and reappears on the work piece depending on the location of the sliding arm and whether there is anything between the laser and the work piece which stands to reason and is a no brainer.
As you mentioned Dave, the laser is not an essential element...it is nice to have for aligning the line of the saw blade with the desired cut location. It does not enhance a cut or make a cut any straighter.....it is a rapid alignment tool , nothing else. If the table & fences & saw blade are set up correctly, that is the main thing.
Thx for the update skot
DaveTTC
Turning Wood into Art
A couple of short vids showing the laser line changing position & the cutting.
Sorry about the video quality........if I was a quality cameraman, I'd be working in the movie profession.
https://www.facebook.com/scott.brack...86259665973075
Can people see those videos?
I uploaded to facebook by mistake and not to YouTube
Not sure if my settings for my facebook are set for public viewing of these vids....I will upload to YouTube and post another link
OK.... YouTube links to the above mentioned videos
Cut...... https://youtu.be/a3v1VHIzZ-o
Laser... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mfq-c0yzKCE
Let's try this way
That's better. Watch it as soon as I get home
DaveTTC
Turning Wood into Art