Searching for a foolproof finish

Thanks Jerry.:2tsup: You are working hard today aren't you? :D

For me this is only one formula

For a hard wearing surface - Satin wipe on poly (you know I just love my wipe on poly don't you? :D)

for a non hard wearing surface - The Maloof mix and sometimes with wax.

I LIKE IT.:cool:

Wongo,

All I was doing was backing up your info. My workshop gets too dusty for spraying, although I have spray guns and a 12cfm compressor. Brushing's OK when it has to be done but like you I prefer a foolproof easy to apply wipe on.

Jerry

Everyone is entitled to my opinion

HI all. Interestinhg reading and I've been meaning to try a poly/tung oil mix since watching David Marks peaked my interest in this wonderful hobby.

But..I am assuming when we say "poly", we are talking about the poly that you buy off the shelf in a tin such as a satin or gloss from Cabots or similar manufacturer?

I will say any oil based poly will do.

Thanks Wongo. Got some of that. I'll mix up a batch and start playing.

:2tsup:You talk about a finish that is hard and is easy to apply well now I was taught to do it the ONLY way by hand ,in that first you filled the grain with a whiting base filler that was coloured to siut the desired finish ie maple ,blode etc wipe on wipe off.
Then afterit dried one would dry sand it smooth then apply sheelac to the desired colour then sand smooth and last but not least apply lacquer with a rubber now you young blokes may not understand what I mean only to say a nice soft cloth made to the correct shape .the cloth is dipped into the lacquer ans applied one way every coat is allowed to dry and then sanded with triple 0 paper.
The more coats applied the more depth was achieved thats how this gentleman who has now passed on some 40 yrs ago did "Grand Pianos" I know that spray is quicker but you cant beat a hand rubbered finish for depth Im affraid its just about a lost art now but those were the days of craftsman .
Hope you enjoyed this brief piece of history
Regards Allan

Allan,

Need a little clarification here. You talk of "lacquer" so I presume that is what you mean, and not varnish or any other coating. I know the method you prescribe, but personally I don't use lacquer because it tends to be too fast drying.

Jerry

Everyone is entitled to my opinion

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jerryc

Turps or other suitable thinner. Can use less or more thinner to choice as it's purpose is to help finish penetrate wood
Varnish of choice
Oil. Either boiled linseed oil or tung oil

Mixture two recipe
Mix two handfuls of shredded beeswax to equal parts of boiled linseed oil and raw tung oil. Heat the mixture carefully . (This part can be a problem. I have made beeswax polish without heat using natural turpentine) However I feel a bought wax might be safer.

Application

Apply three or four coats of mixture one. Let oil sit on surface for 5-10 minutes. Or you can sand the mixture into wood using 400-600 wet and dry. Remove excess oil with clean cloth/paper towel. Allow at least twenty four hours drying time between each coat. Apply two to three coats of mixture two. Rub each coat into surface very vigorously.

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How would this method go for outdoor use? I imagine it would last longer then a straight outdoor decking oil finish correct?
If you just do stage one (turps, varnish, oil mix) is 4 or 5 coats of that adequate, as the beeswax and tungoil isnt going to penetrate the wood much, if at all, after the previous mixture sealing the wood? I imagine its more for sheen, yes? Thoughts?

For people reading this thread. I made up this mixture but bought Cabot's Gelclear Poly (cause it was the only thing on the shelf that said Poly). It is actually in a gel form, so probably not ideal. Because I had already spent the money I am giving it a go because if you give it a stir the gel releases and it becomes more liquidy.

Also anyone who is wondering "How do I get exactly 1/3-1/3-1/3 without ruining the missus' good measuring cup?" Well depending on how much you need try a syringe from a chemist. I bought a 25cc syringe for 50 cents and measured out exactly 20ml of each into a jar. The total of 60ml has lasted me quite sufficiently to use on two large burl bowls, three coats each, and still some left over for probably another two coats.

Please don't ask how it has gone so far, I didn't read the instructions properly that said, wipe on, leave for a few minutes, then wipe of excess completly. The second coat was obviously loaded with bubbles and stuff so I had to sand both bowls back and have started over :~

Earthling,

Can't help with how finish would go on exterior application because I haven't tried it. I never give advice unless I have had personal experience. I imagine a varnish based wipe on would work but a polyurethane would not. My reason is that wood expands and contacts on exposure to weather and polyurethane is too rigid. I have had experience of polyurethane on a counter top by a west facing window and can tell you it broke up very quickly. Varnish is more flexible and spar varnish is the most flexible of all, hence it's use on boats.
Hope that helps.

Toasty,

The proportions are a guide and don't have to be adhered to rigidly. That said one way of measuring is with a ruler or even a marked stick in a transparent jar. I don't know if the gel had any unforseen effects as I haven't used gel. The bubbles however suggest you might have been a little enthusiastic in mixing. You have to be very careful not to introduce bubbles into the mix as they can be a real problem when applying. Another problem which might have introduced bubbles is if the wiping cloth had a crease in the part that touches the wood. Always aim to make that areas smooth.

Jerry

Everyone is entitled to my opinion

I'm ready to put a finish on a marri dining table. Spraying is not an option for me so after reading this and many other posts on wipe on oil/poly mixes Ive decided to go for :
table base 1/3 poly - 1/3 tung oil - 1/3 white spirits OR
1/3 poly - 1/3 linseed oil - 1/3 tung oil
would either be OK?

table top I can't fid MinWax wipe on poly anywhere so from the tip on Blue Mountains Woodturners site http://www.pnc.com.au/~k_j/woodturne...s/TipsOils.htm: if I use:
1 part tung oil - 4 parts poly - 6 parts white spirit
would this be a close substitute to get a more durable finish?

Am I on the right track?

Cheers
Garry

Nice mixture table looks great and sam is a very good role model indeed I thought he must have been a strong influence in your work,your rocking chairs very much seem to have a lot of sam's style in them, and I dont think that anyone could pay you a higher compliment than that.:2tsup::2tsup::2tsup::2tsup:

Good afternoon Gentlemen,

I've been having all sorts of stife trying to spay a satin polyurethane finish onto a red gum coffee table top. For various reasons I've had to strip it back to bare wood at least three times now, so I'm ready for a change. I was going to go for Cabot's Danish oil, but then found this thread. The table top won't see very much direct use, coasters etc and the kids have moved, so no more table top dances! Afew questions then.

1.In your opinions (which I greatly respect) would you use something like Cabot's Danish oil or similar OR go for the thirds mix?

2.When you talk of tung oil, is it in it's pure form or one of the mixes like Intergrain etc?

Many thanks for your time,
Mick

Can I use metalated spirits (from molases) in place of turps? Do you let it dry or wipe off after a short period like oil? I would have thought that if it dries it would straek and go nasty if you wipe it off?

Cheers,
Mike

Mike, I usually leave it for a few minutes or just ripe it off right away. BUT don’t leave it for too long. It will get nasty as you suggested.

I have been making a lot of hall tables lately. The way I do it is I wipe on the top first and wipe off right away then I will do the base.