Printable View
To be honest, I have never used this particular Wet Area Base Coat, as I have never had a need. So I am unable to comment on the characteristics of it.
Generally the wet area componds that I have used, set harder than others and are not quite as smooth to use.
The all purpose compund is ok for all 3 coats provided you can wait for it to dry between coats.
Cheers
Appreciate your comments Slobba and Rod.
Hi
TWO skim coats AND a TOP coat??Quote:
Originally Posted by Slobba
How thick is the paint on the ceiling? :?
IMHO this is a lot of work and effort for a NOVICE. The additional cost for purchasing the materials, though not too expensive, is more than what is required.
I have done this type or repair and there is really only one way to do it properly and that is to strip the ceiling back to the plasterboard. This too is a lot of effort, but it is the ONLY way to know that the "base" from which to work, ie to repaint, is COMPLETELY sound.
Even IF it was feasible to place three "skim" coats of "plaster" within the thickness of a coat of paint, there would still be doubts about the remaining surface. The remaining surface *may* last but for how long??
Gooner, if you do not want to strip back the remaining ceiling, then I recommend you feather the edges of the remaining paint and SEAL the ceiling with an OIL BASED sealer paying particular attention to the feathered edges.
You could also consider painting the "exposed" parts of ceiling (only) with several coats of sealer to build up the level of paint to that of the remaining "sound" paint. (This is easier to do with a paint roller than to plaster with a trowel). Then seal the whole ceiling with the OIL BASED sealer.
Acrylic sealers are very good but an oil based sealer is even better and they don't smell as pungent as they used to :)
Be aware though that if you don't remove the existing "sound" paint, you may need to do the job again. Stripping the paint is not too hard if you carefully use a quality paint stripper, obviously trying not to damage the paper surface of the plasterboard.
Paint the ceiling with a low sheen finish. This will help minimise any moisture being absorbed into the ceiling paint and it will help hide the ceiling "blemishes" better than a semi-gloss. The light fitting you currently have as per the photo (providing it DOES have a shade) will also help "disguise" any minor errors in the feathered edges or paintwork.
If you do not have a ceiling fan in the bathroom I recommend you have one fitted. This will help dramatically with the prevention of moisture absorption in the ceiling painwork.
Good luck with whatever method you choose :)
HTH
Thanks for the advice. The remaining paint is quite sound. I cant really budge it with a scraper. However I did damage the paper surface in some areas. I.e ripped off some paper, but not down to the plaster. Can I put a base coat over this successfully?Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFixIt
HiI had the same scenario myself. In my case (which may be completely different to yours) about a year after doing the first repair job, I had to strip back the part not previously done as that part of the ceiling began to flake. Like in your situation, I could not easily strip back amy more of the paint during the first repair.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooner
Yes you can put a base coat over that surface. Use polyfilla/spak filler for any small sized area but deep "cuts" in the surface.Quote:
However I did damage the paper surface in some areas. I.e ripped off some paper, but not down to the plaster. Can I put a base coat over this successfully?
I neglected to mention in my previous post, that if you do try to strip some of the other paint, round of the corners of your scraper so that the scraper corners don't dig into the ceiling/plaster/paper.
TWO skim coats AND a TOP coat?? ...YESQuote:
Originally Posted by MrFixIt
carefully use a quality paint stripper ....NEVER attempt to do that :oo:
i'm not going to have a running debate about a simple little ceiling, but between myself and rods advice...no punn intended Mrfixit, but some of us do this work everyday for a living..and i only do things the easiest and quickest way. because the customer pays for a quality fix, after doing this for 27 years, i think i would know..:2tsup:
Ok, no problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slobba
Yes, I agree with you. After doing that kind of work every day for 27 years I am SURE (with respect) *you* know what you're doing. However this does NOT easily translate to a *NOVICE* doing the same thing.Quote:
but between myself and rods advice...no punn intended Mrfixit, but some of us do this work everyday for a living..and i only do things the easiest and quickest way. because the customer pays for a quality fix, after doing this for 27 years, i think i would know..:2tsup:
What may be easy and quick for you and I, may be difficult or at least frustrating for a *NOVICE*. How do you expect a *NOVICE* to place a nice skim coat of plaster overhead? (especially with a 100mm trowel?) Many novices would have enough difficulty getting plaster on a wall. You even described "mixing your own" how to you expect a novice to know how to do this properly?
Painting is MUCH easier though a novice may even have some difficulties with this. The paint is already available as it is to be used on the ceiling anyway. The purchase of plaster/top coat is an unnecessary extra expense that may cause more problems than it is worth.
I know how to mix plaster/top coat, but even I would not use the method you suggest, not that I am suggesting it is wrong, but because as I first pointed out the ONLY way to do the job properly is to REMOVE the existing (potentially faulty) paintwork. If the paint cannot be removed then several coats of paint are easier for a novice to apply than skim coats of plaster.
Gooner is a NOVICE for goodness sake!Quote:
Originally Posted by Slobba
.. and YES you can carefully use a scraper (with rounded corners) to remove the existing paintwork.
[/debate]
You don't need to use all caps to get your point across. Most people don't like it when you YELL at them. Just use bold, or italics to emphasise something of importance.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFixIt
Slobbas description would be easy for a novice to follow. You don't require any special skills. It's the way that I'd do it rather than putting on layer after layer of paint, that still won't hide the difference in levels. It may round off the edge a bit, but you'd need a lot of layers to hide it totally.
OK Girls.....Cover your homework!!
Maybe we could just give advice without the capitals and the testosterone poisoning.
Just a thought
Surely this thread has been done by now.
Pawnhead is spot on the money.
Painting over a surface of 2 different levels will never do a satisfactory job.
You cant get into too much trouble with skim coating with top coat because it will sand back no matter how bad it is put on. Basecoat its a different story.
Geez and I had banned myself from further comment on this thread:(
i'm gonna wait for the finish photos......Ahmen:2tsup:
whilst you reckon the thread might be done Rod i've only just joined so thought i'd throw into the mix - agree with all that Slobba has gone through - i've 'patched' a few plaster and lathe ceilings using similar methods and also patched joining tape that has bubbled using similar methods
only idea i'd add to the mix which has worked well for me is to use exterior paint in the bathroom - the bathroom where i first started using exterior has last for 9 years without the slightest hint of change (and that was only one coat as it was an experiment)
anyways have enjoyed the read (one last thought - top coat being so easy to sand makes it easier to 'bleed' where the patch areas are)
good luck Goona and as Slobba said 'look forward to the photos'
Thought I'd post an update, even though I am not finished yet.
I applied the pre-mixed wet-area base coat and found it difficult to apply. The pre-mixed stuff seemed quite dry and difficult to apply. I probably should have added water. I thought I made a little bit of a mess of applying the base coat (not too many trowel lines, but a little uneven), but after applying the top coat and sanding I did get quite a good smooth finish.
However, after doing this on a small ceiling, I would not contemplate doing this fix on a larger sized ceiling such as a lounge or kitchen. (I would only apply the coats over the chipped boundaries).
I have not yet sealed or painted the roof. Since applying the top coat and sanding I decided to remove all the plasterboard from the walls as I will be replacing them villaboard so that I can tile up to the ceiling. In order to do this I needed to remove all the cornices. I did this tonight.
Removing the cornices left difficult to remove adhesive on the ceiling. I will eventually have to remove this adhesive and then apply more base and finish coat to the ceiling so that it blends in with the existing surface.
Considering the size of the room (1.5m x 2.5m) and the fact that the cornices are now removed, I am now contemplating replacing the ceiling plasterboard altogehter! I think at this stage it may be quicker and easier. Of course it means I wasted my time and money appling the base and top coat, but at least I learnt something.
I still have more work to do in the room before I finish the ceiling, so I will cross that bridge when I get to it.
not really a waste of money Gooner as you'll need the coats for your tape if you do go and put new boards in - good luck and like you said so long as you are learning nothing is wasted (except maybe the time to take a dip down in the beach or a game of footie with mates or a beer at the pub or ....)