Merbau Deck Finish

As I am not a qualified builder I can't comment with authority. I have asked myself the same question. I have read over the net about the use of these connectors but where I live they don't appear to have reached the building supply outlets where they can picked up off the shelf by the builder. I would say most homeowners wouldn't be aware of them. Can you clarify how the connector holds on the side of the timber as if it requires hammering in only the timber predominantly here is harwood which is just that very hard and needs to be drilled first and then hand hammered. I am not involved with the initial construction but somewhere down the line in the decks life. I would guess that it is a question of both time and costs for both the builder and client. Perhaps the best method that I have come across is a stainless steel screw
8g 50mm long. It isn't going to pop up for a very long time if ever.

It would be great if someone on the Forum could give us a clearer version of this topic.

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Originally Posted by jimj

As I have asked myself the same question. I have read over the net about the use of these connectors but where I live they don't appear to have reached the building supply outlets where they can picked up off the shelf by the builder. I would say most homeowners wouldn't be aware of them. Can you clarify how the connector holds on the side of the timber as if it requires hammering in only the timber predominantly here is harwood which is just that very hard and needs to be drilled first and then hand hammered. I am not involved with the initial construction but somewhere down the line in the decks life. I would guess that it is a question of both time and costs for both the builder and client. Perhaps the best method that I have come across is a stainless steel screw
8g 50mm long. It isn't going to pop up for a very long time if ever.

It would be great if someone on the Forum could give us a clearer version of this topic.

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Have a dekko at this link and at their website. I saw them used in a recent This Old House episode and they were the go. Hides the screws (no nails, only screws) and spaces the boards 1/8 inch apart every time.

http://www.deckfastener.com/products_tc4.asp

They make different ones for softwood, hardwood, and composites. :)

Essentially, only the first and last course of boards are face-screwed. For the middle courses, one fastener is hammered into the side of the laid board at each joist, screwed at an angle into the joist, and the next board is hammered onto the spacer. Repeat.

Thanks for the info. I will go into the site and refresh my brain. In my last post I mentioned using stainless screws but didn't re read as carefully as I should. It should have read a SS 8g 50 mm Countersunk !

Namtrak used them on his deck: http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...2&postcount=64

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Originally Posted by Honorary Bloke

Have you considered hidden deck fasteners? No nail heads to set (or reset), aesthetically pleasing. Most all new decks here are going this way because of ease of maintenance and looks. There are several different kinds available.

And Jimj, are hidden deck fasteners growing in popularity in OZ or not considered by most homeowners? :?

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Can't comment for jim but in "TIGHT AS ALL HELL SYDNEY" you could only make them move as they free fell off the back of the ute....
Pulled the brochure back out of the bin to give you the prices i was posted the other day....
for 90mm boards to cover 40sqm $999
for 62 sqm $1300

You don't have a hope in moving a product like this in sydney unless the customer has researched it prior to you getting to give a quote... We can't even get a couple of hundred out of most customers for stainless screws that cost me way more than that to buy

Like a lot of these new products they don't move unless they make the job a lot quicker or save the customer money in some other direct way

my 2c

Cheeers Ute Mad

www.dialadeck.com.au

Just read your link this is the mob that posted me the prices....
The clips have barbs on the side that get hammered into the side of the board with a special punch then you screw the bracket to the joist,

The thing i never get is that the boards swell when wet if the coating is worn and thats the reason for leaving the gap doesn't the clip reduce this movement by bridging the gap... Also every batch of boards i have ever layed ( and thats a lot) has a width discrepency of up to 3mm in hardwood and 5mm in pine so how do you keep the boards straight with these i don't know.....

My sc

cheers Ute Mad

www.dialadeck.com.au

Thanks Utemad,

I knew that the forum needed someone who has had a lot of practical experience and has examined the many ways to lay the best deck and yet keep the costs competitive. With the Australia hardwoods there is a lot going for using it ,but it still the story of two steps forward and one step back. It always seem that the best solution is to arm yourself with all the information out there ,both the pros and cons and then weigh it all up and make your own decision and hopefully be happy to live with it. I can say that if Sydney finds it hard to accept these costs then the rest of Australia will also struggle in accepting then, IMHO. It is great that so much can be learned from reading this forum.

Thanks for the reply's Jim and UteMad.
I eventually will have to make a decision on what to use to fix the deck. I am leaning towards nails, with the options being, domed stainless or bullet head stainless or galv. Any comments on these fixing's.