Mounting new points in colorbond shed- ideas?

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Originally Posted by JDub

Thanks Custos but......

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Originally Posted by JDub
I dont plan to line the inside of the walls.

;) :p

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Errr, he didn't say he *LINED* the inside of the walls, he said he *FRAMED* inside the shed. ("Uprights every 2-3 feet")

I read that as meaning he put a wooden "skeleton" inside the shed, which strengthened it, and gave him a framework to hang stuff off.

Lining a shed with 80*55 timbers would have been an interesting exercise:confused:

Cheers,
Andrew

ahhh true, he didnt say line did he ;) When I read it originally I just made the jump in my mind from frame to lining (as thats what you would normally frame a shed for) ;):o I will keep it in mind custos, I may just do one wall as you have suggested to hang peg boards etc from......

Thanks for the all the responses, I will see what it looks like once the shed is up but I will either go with the method woodcutta has pictured with conduit in the top hat girts or silents method but using MDF or PLY instead of zinc al......

Cheers
Joel

Yeah, i did just mean a frame, not full lining. Actually it was amazing the difference it made to the stability of the shed... well perhaps it shouldn't have been amazing. It was a pretty good (read: expensive... I went shopping with SHMBO :rolleyes: ) shed to begin with but even so when the wind blew or you bumped against a wall it tended to rattle a bit. The size of the colourbond wall sheets are pretty big. Once the frame was all locked into place it became rock solid. Even the big bad wolf couldn't blow this sucker down.

Re: Running the wires etc for my sparky to hook up...

Can I use 2.5mm twin + earth cable for both general 10 amp outlets and lighting circuits? Or should I use something else to run for the fluros?

Cheers
Joel

If you have been following that other thread about wiring, you'll anticipate my answer, which is: "ask your sparky"!!

He has to certify it, so you should ask him what cables you need to run. Much better to do that than have to pull it out and do it again later because you didn't do it the way he likes it done.

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Originally Posted by silentC

If you have been following that other thread about wiring, you'll anticipate my answer, which is: "ask your sparky"!!

He has to certify it, so you should ask him what cables you need to run. Much better to do that than have to pull it out and do it again later because you didn't do it the way he likes it done.

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yer yer yer ;) thought there might be a simple answer.. just didnt want to bother him with silly questions is all, would rather bother you lot instead :p
I will give him a call. ;) :p

edit: Just to reinforce I am not doing any actual wiring, just the labor/time intensive stuff so the sparky can finish it off / check it out ;)

2.5mm 2 core and earth for the power circuit.

I use 1.5mm 2 core and earth for the light circuit.
2 core switching wire to go to the switch. (Red / White in the flat sheath).

2.5mm for the light circuit is overkill.

Just cause I like to follow up on the threads I start....

I ended up going with a method very similar to woodcutta's, except instead of mounting the block on sheet metal attached with pop rivets, I mounted the block on some left over Marine grade HDPE I had, attached to the tophats with Tek screws :2tsup:

Cheers
again

Joel

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...chmentid=40112

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Originally Posted by Abug

2.5mm 2 core and earth for the power circuit.

I use 1.5mm 2 core and earth for the light circuit.
2 core switching wire to go to the switch. (Red / White in the flat sheath).

2.5mm for the light circuit is overkill.

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:((
Something in here is not good advice....


Anyway, if the cable is within reach it should in conduit. Obviously if you have a wall lining, then it can be run pretty much as normal, but perhaps with some additional consideration for insulation.....:U