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Hi Dez,
This Blackwood table was finished with Scandinavian (Danish) Oil and coated with Wipe on Poly Satin.
When I use the WOP, I usually pour it onto the surface at one end and wipe slowly with the grain. You get a good even finish that way.
I guess also remember to sand as fine as you can. If you can get to 2000 grit, finish will be even better in the case of most products.
Regards,
Rob
Flowboy, I'm guessing there was supposed to be a picture attached? Just to clarify the process, do you apply the WOP first and then apply the Scandinavian (Danish) Oil over the top? Is this the same as what TassieKiwi is say as well? Would I use the EEE Ultra Shine as well? As can be seen, I don't know what the hell I'm doing!!! It would be great to see pictures if you have any too!
I'm thinking I'll get the Minwax WOP satin and do a trial, maybe some danish oil and EEE as well.
Cheers guys
Dez
Hi Dez,
Sorry about that, See my response under Min-Max-minor in the finishing thread
Use the Oil (Danish or whatever first, wipe in thoroughly then wipe off the excess. Add the wipe on poly last of all, allow it to dry, sand and add another coat. If you feel you need to add more, wait till the second coat dries, sand and add again. Usually two caots is fine. Just be sure you get an even coat. You may want to look at the table down low at one end and look for streaks.
I think Tassie KiWi was suggesting that you could use a cloth dampened with Danish oil and gently rub the timber to accentuate only the grain. Be sure to wipe off any extra with a dry cloth.
I think you will find the Satin WOP gives you what you want.
Hope this helps
Regards
Rob
Thanks for all your advice Flowboy and everyone.
I'll do a trial now on scrap and post the results here.
Cheers
Dez
Hi Dez,
Couple of things I remembered.
What will you be sanding with and how fine will the last grit be?
If you haven't got a sander, I would suggest a Random Orbital jobbie, gives smooth clean results with little if any residual scrathing from the previous grit. Bunnies have them at reasonable price for a 125mm and if you go ahead with the rest of the furniture, you'll find it priceless.
If you have a finishing sander, be sure to sand the scratches from the previous grit before proceeding. I would suggest the following sequence. 80g, 120g, 180g, 240g, 400g then 600g, 1200g and 1500g. The timber will feel like glass and your final finish will be brilliant.
Regards
Rob
Tas Oak with wipe on poly.
Beautiful piece Wongo.
Hope you agreed with my sanding regimen?
Rob
Dez, I think Carry Pine is on the right track. In my experience just about any oil product will yellow and darken the timber over time. this may take a number of years, but it seems to happen. I believe that a water based Poly will not do this, don't know what the finish is like though.
Flowboy, re sanding regimen. Following comments:
1) Use of a cabinet scraper can avoid the need for 80/120/180 at least.
2) The final grit size should be determined by the hardness/density of the timber. IMHO there is little point in taking Tassie Oak past 600 grit. Certainly not before adding a harder layer like poly. On the other hand something like Jarrah will benifet from 1200, and Ebony can go to 1500. These are my thoughts and all are welcome to disagree as usual.
Jacko
G'day all
Flowboy, just came in from the shed and have started sanding a few pieces before I start constructing the base frame. I do have an orbital sander and my hand is still tingling from about one straight hour at it!
Thanks for your sanding advice. My plan was to go to about 400g but I think I'll up it to at least 600 - 800 now and try for a better finish. I am sanding to 120g at the moment and will step it up once I've fully constructed it.
Another question too: I was planning to use sanding sealer as well. Is this a good idea? Some other product available better to help smooth things out?
Neil, yeah it appears the consensus is oil will yellow and realistically I'm sure what I'm making will yellow over time to a degree. I guess if it yellows too much I'll need to make a new set, maybe Tassie Blackwood this time!!
Wongo, thanks for that pic mate, beautiful piece, love the dovetails. That finish is pretty much exactly what I'm looking for so you've really helped to confirm the WOP decision.
Went fishing last night and didn't get in til early this morning so behind schedule now, as only spent 1 hour this arvo sanding. I'll definately post a pic or two when it's finished.
Thanks again, cheers
Dez
Hi Dez,
Glad to be of help. Sanding Sealer is something I have in the Workshop, but have not used. There seems to be some debate over its use, so I'll leave it to those with much more experience than I answer your question.
BTW: Jarrah looks really good under three coats of satin WOP with 1500 grit sanding in between.
Regards
Rob
G'day again
Thought I'd add a pic of where I'm up to. Actually, this was this morning, have progressed a little since then. I now have the Minwax WOP and have applied first coat to the trial piece. Will update soon
Cheers
Dez
Hi everyone- my first post :) I'm from Tassie, and our local mechants here have mentioned that Tassie Oak could be any one of dozens of species.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mirboo
And the colours can be very variable.
Hi Dez,
Looking good, but hard to tell on such beautifully matched and pale Tas Oak.
How does it look to you. Was the surface supersmooth at 600 grit?
And I've got to ask, how did your workshop get so clean??:eek: :D
Regards
Rob
G'day Rob
I decided to go to 800g and I think this is pretty much as good as it'll get. The trial piece with the WOP has turned out great, even without the polish at this stage, it's definately a goer!
Mate, I've been following your WIP of redgum chairs (looking great) and have seen the pictures of your workshop too... looks like neither of us are scared of a little sawdust getting in the way!!!:D
And welcome aboard Spreyton!
Cheers
Dez