Neil, wow - quite a bit of an answer, thanks!
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Originally Posted by
ubeaut
G'day OrcaSoul - Here's a whale of an answer for you. Sand by hand to at least 600 or 800 grit making sure tho eradicate the sanding marks from previous grits before continuing on to the next one. If you use a
Rotary Sander you can stop sanding at 400 grit then use EEE. This is possible because the sander eliminates all sanding marks form the surface of the timber. For top quality work I would use the Rotary Sander to sand up to 1200m or even 1500 then apply the EEE. It'll knock your eyes out.
OK, my sanding process: Start with 80 grit, sand by hand with the lathe stopped & running along the grain lines to 600 g, removing all marks at each level. Then turn on the lathe, power sand through the same levels checking at each for any problems. Then I use micro-mesh from 1,500 to 12,000 with the lathe stopped - smoothing out every surface until no resistance or rasping sound indicates any imperfections.
On most pieces, this gives a nice surface - but the Ultra Shine added that final touch that made the work shimmer...I love this stuff!
On some, usually maple or some exotic like Bubinga, there seems to be "flat" spots that resist all efforts - and often don't show until the final finish is applied...very aggravating.:o
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Apply the EEE with the lathe stopped. A quick light rub over the entire surface. Don't use too much as the excess will only be wasted up the walls and up the front of you. Turn the lathe on, running as fast as is safe for the size bowl you have on it. I usually run almost everything at around 1800rpm (too lazy to turn the knob on the variable speed) Back to the EEE. Use the same piece of rag you spread it on the surface with and work it back and forth across the surface of the piece until you can see a mirrored image of the rag and your fingers in the face of the work.
Here's where I think I've started to go wrong - I was using too much, and not using the same rag to spread it after starting the lathe. FYI, I was doing it the way you describe, but finding glossy hard patches on the rag where I was rubbing - most likely because I was rubbing too hard. The more I read on Ultra Shine I realize that I mis-understood what it actually is...probably because the first time I saw it used it was presented as a wax, and the final surface. This was at a wood show, the demonstrator probably didn't want to take the time to go further, wanted the immediate "ooh" value, and was selling the EEE...
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With the lathe still running, use a clean soft piece of rag to remove any wax that may still be on the surface of the work. It should feel completely dry and the fingers and rag should glide over the surface when felt with the lathe stopped. If your fingers stutter or drag then there is still wax on the piece that needs to be removed. More clean soft rag.
Again, sounds like I was being too heavy handed...thanks for clearing that up.
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Make a thick wad of clean soft rag and apply enough Shellawax to cover the area of a dime this should be more than enough to do an 8 to 10 inch bowl inside or out (not both).
That little of the Shellawax? No wonder I've been having problems! - I was using a lot more than that! I'd put it on until it started to dry, then get some more for the rest of the bowl.
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Quickly and as evenly as possible spread this over the surface of the work and immediately turn the lathe on. Use the same dampened section of rag start in the center, apply a heavy pressure then move at a medium speed to the outside rim of the bowl keeping the same heavy pressure as you go, then continue on back into the center and out and in etc all the time watching the polish move with the movement of the rag. Once this movement of the polish stops and you see a light haze instead the polishing is done, lighten up the pressure and continue for a couple more runs over the surface, then use a clean soft piece of rag to remove the haze (which is the wax from the brew being drawn to the surface of the work), STOP!!
OK you're finished the bowl looks brilliant and everyone thinks you are amazing and it all took less than 3 minutes. How simple was that.
And how simple I feel...:doh: I would spread it, then let it dry for 3 minutes (read that somewhere!) and then wipe with a clean cloth - not the one used to apply it with.
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A few hints.
Use the rag you apply the Shellawax with the same way you would use any turning tool. Once it is in position keep it on a constant angle and position during the entire process. One of the main causes of lines on the work is using too much Shellawax. The excess will build up at the bottom of the rag where it contacts the timber and if you lean back onto that wave, it will try to lay down a new coat of the polish on the one you're working on. Hence the lines that look like bad sanding marks.
Makes sense...
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Not enough Shellawax will give you bright and dull strips and look terrible.
Not enough, or too much? Not sure I am reading that correctly.
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Poor sanding technique is also a bit of a problem as is not sanding high enough and then expecting EEE to bail you out, which it will to a point. However there is no substitute for good preparation sanding.
True, no matter what finishing you use...
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Use Shellawax for everything up to 8" diam that needs a brilliant and bright finish. Use Shellawax Cream for a slightly duller, softer look. Mix Shellawax and Shellawax Cream together to work on bigger pieces up to 3 ft diameter.
Most of my work is 6" to 10" - but I just bought a Nova 1624, so am looking at doing larger work...big change from the 12" Rigid I started with! :rolleyes:
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Trial it out on scrap or practice pieces before jumping in boots and all and putting it on a $5,000 masterpiece.
$5,000? Well, nothing wrong with dreaming...:2tsup:
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For all functional work (pens, knife handles, etc) apply 2 to 3 coats consecutively, same goes for functional bowls, goblets etc. For decorative work that'll be admired but not used or handled too much, 1 application is usually plenty.
The finish will dull if not sanded high enough or timber is not dry. The same will happen with some oily timbers.
Not all timbers will look the same. You can do exactly the same thing on 10 different pieces of wood and get 10 completely different looking finishes. Some will look like they have a glass coat on an inch deep on them and will flash like tiger eye or opal. Others will look dead and lifeless.
Yes, I've noticed that about wood...:roll:
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Hope this is of some help.
Cheers - Neil :U
PS you can use the EEE over the top of Shellawax but as has already been said don't get too heavy handed with it and preferably use it over something that has had 2 or three coats.
Also better to wait for the cross linking process to finish (around 20 days) as the surface is a fair bit harder then and will take a bit more to cut through.
PPS Bit more info
HERE but it's starting to get a bit outdated in some bits as we change our way of thinking about and using these products.
Phew... :yawn:
Amen... Neil, thanks a lot for this info - clears up a host of questions I've had.
And thanks for the great product!
Stephen
