Yeah Paul, danish oil seems to work the same. I lost this tin for some time and used rustins danish as a sub.
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Yeah Paul, danish oil seems to work the same. I lost this tin for some time and used rustins danish as a sub.
As discussed last week white paint would have been ok.
No,Quote:
Originally Posted by Pagie
Behave yourself or we won’t talk to you on Sunday.
Cheers Matt.
I've used the same method many times using Feast Watson Fine Buffing Oil over polyurethane. Works very well. Method described here:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushmiller
Fine Buffing Oil | Feast Watson Products
If the oil is only there for lubrication, wouldn’t paraffin or light machine oil do the same job? I’m trying to understand why a special oil is required, given that it will never touch the timber through the varnish.
Lance,Quote:
Originally Posted by LanceC
I’ve been trying to work this out myself.
My thoughts are the Varnish seals the Timber, similar to a grain sealer.
The oil is then used as a lubricant for the abrasive be it sand paper, steel wool, scotch brite pad.
A wax then gives a final polish finish??.
In a way it sounds similar to how Auto paint is finished??
Happy to be advised I’ve got it all wrong[emoji6]
Cheers Matt.
Lance , sorry just realised I didn’t actually answer you question, but I agree would any thin light oil would work, as long as the wax would gell with it ?
Cheers Matt.
Wow three posts in so many minutes I’m on fire [emoji6].
This literally arrived on the Door step Ten minutes ago, but now I’m actually confused because the can says Scandinavian oil,not Scandinavian Teak Oil !!!!.
Should i just go ahead an use this ?????[emoji3061]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...53dea7cd37.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...79891272c6.jpg
ZINSSER Rustoleum Scandinavian Oil (Interior) 437ml | South East Clearance Centre
There’s a link to were i obtained the Scandinavian oil,
Cheers Matt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LanceC
Lance
Never having tried any other oil, I can only surmise. I think lingering smell might be an issue with the oils you have mentioned. Otherwise any thin oil may be sufficient providing it is not a solvent for the coats of varnish. The original Scandinavian teak Oil I referenced is extremely thin. Danish Oil is a similar viscosity, but I am unfamiliar with the Scandinavian Oil Matt has sourced. I would suggest trying on a separate test piece first.
The time we used Danish Oil, it was used by itself on a raw wood dining table and was rubbed in with a scourer. It comes up looking similar to the varnish oil, but not quite so tough.
Regards
Paul
Hi Matt .
I just re read your first post and skipped through the rest to the end so may be repeating stuff said that I missed .
The white problem at the start of this . That's the turps doing it . Its a common problem if mineral turps is used wrong .
That's why when making your own Beeswax finishes Pure turpentine is used in the mix and not Mineral turps .
That's why when you need a washing down soloution We mix linseed oil with the Mineral Turps.
That's Oil and Turps . Oil 25 % Turps 75% . A jar of that is on every Pro French polishers bench Ive ever seen .
Its used for washing down and buffing off dusty furniture for the show room as long as its not a wax finish on it .
Used when rubbing back a dry finish with fine sand paper before the next application . It keeps the paper free from clogging up .
And it can be used in the last stages your talking about where the finish is rubbed back with fine steel wool or similar stuff . We place oil and turps on the dry finish and dab a few spots of beeswax polish on then rub back with fine 0000 liberon steel wool . It leaves a nice dull shine . If you use anything but Liberon 0000 it wont be the finish I'm talking about . Not as important on a tool handle . Crucial on a table top that is about to be inspected by a client .
Its a step too dull for my liking though on table tops . I french polish then wax so am able to bring the finish a step up from being too dull before waxing . One of the great things about shellac is the ability to adjust the shine to any level wanted .
It does a lot of good things you cant do with oil finishes out of a can . Which is why after thousands of years its still around Id say . All this other tinned stuff comes and goes . Some of its good though . Has its uses .
Get some shellac to play with one day.
Thanks Auscab,Quote:
Originally Posted by auscab
But just to clarify, because this stuff all goes over my head, and this may help others as well.
I really get confused when we start talking Turps,Mineral Turpentine,Raw linseed oil,Boiled Linseed oil,kero,wax,beeswax,my head is spinning and I haven’t even opened the bottles yet,[emoji6] to take a whiff.
So,I mix 25% Raw linseed oil(Not Boiled linseed)Diggers Brand
75% Mineral Turpentine(Diggers Brand).
And use that to polish cut back with, have some 2000 wet and dry on hand, but i only have the green shed type 0000 steel wool on hand.
Then apply a hard wax and buff.
Think first year apprentice [emoji6].
Cheers Matt.
Mix 25% Raw or Boiled . It doesn't matter. Your using it then removing it . Or removing as much as possible with a dry rag .Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity
2000 is a lot to fine IMHO. 400 grit is the go . Used 400 grit if you want finer . New 400 has a bit to much bite if your at final stages of finishing so rub two bits together to remove the fresh bite . Ive been polishing 42 years and the only time Ive used over 400 grit, as tought ,for woodwork , was when I started painting a car . Cutting and buffing a paint job on a car before wax .
On hard lacquer jobs on wood, sprayed like modern stuff is done, then it's done with a cut and buff . But I don't see that as a quality thing at all . Its fast , thick , glossy gloop with rounded corners . Hand work in finishing gets much nicer results .
When you get your oil and turps mix in a jar . Play with cutting back finishes before next stage .
Have a go at cutting back raw wood with fine paper then buffing dry as well . Its nice .
Its a lovely way to finish the insides of drawers .
If you play with shellac on a polishing rubber, a thin wipe over on these dry wood cut backs is lovely .Its got to be a thin shellac mix though . Needs explaining more . Sorry that's more like 4th year stuff :)
You will have to use the green shed 0000 then .
liberon is sold on ebay Liberon - Steel Wool 2 100g - 15065 5450011000158 | eBay
Or same stuff here is $22 I think .
Graeme Brown Antiques
Just thinking more on this .Quote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity
I use 400 grit but then come back and re body with shellac . So put more finer coats on by rubbing . It gets a finer build up on top of my 400 grit before finishing.
I'm not into modern cut and buff finishing as I was saying above on lacquers but the 2000 wet and dry then your 0000 steel wool on your oil finished handle should be a good thing . Better quality steel wool would make a difference .
Ill send you a small amount if you like Matt . Tell us if you can see a difference when you try it out .
Thanks Auscab,Quote:
Originally Posted by auscab
Yes I was thinking the same,ie a finer cut with say 2000 is not going to cause any damage.
Just some lost effort.
Im happy to crap some steel wool from one of the suppliers you linked too.
Cheers Matt.
Well I think i will leave this as is for now, the handle actually feels quite nice with a very low sheen.
I can’t power buff it because that stuff is else we’re.[emoji17]
But I’m quite happy with how it looks,especially because I normally like a lot more gloss,times they are changing.
I’m waiting on some “special” bolts to arrive in the mail,once they arrive i can finish the saw,and i put it up in the Saws Handmade section.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d2cbb09615.jpg
Cheers Matt.