Jarrah finish

Organoil is the brand. Made in Australia.

It's easier to do the inside surfaces while the box is not glued up. Just be careful not to get oil all over the joint surfaces. Larger projects like Tables and such can be oiled at the end, but again, it seems to be easier to oil each part of the project before assembling.

Regards,

Rob

After using the cat as a polishing rag how do you get the oil etc off the cat.
Also wot do you do about the scratches up your arms.
H.

:U Wash up is done with Turps.

:UAs for the cat, best wipe it down too, but I suggest you feed it a couple of cans of it's favourite food, then, when it falls asleep try and wipe the Turps off with soapy water. Remember to wear a good strong pair of leather gloves and leather apron as well.

Regards

Rob

However, do not try this at home. The cat will likely become very ill and require Veterinary treatment.or die THIS IS ONLY A JOKE

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LGS

Hi,
Typically,
1. I would dry sand 100 to,220,320 and 400. Then you can rub the surfaces down with a dry cloth. This will give a very smooth surface on which you can add the oil

2 Add the oil to the surface. The trick here is to have a wet but not saturated surface. I usually add the first coat, then wait 5 minutes and add some more oil, (but not too much) so that you get a wet surface

3. Begin sanding with the Random Orbital sander using the 400 grit pad. Sand until the oil has penetrated, giving a dirty looking pasty look. DO NOT WIPE THE SURFACE DOWN>Change to the next sanding pad. I use an up and back technique. 10 strokes up and 10 strokes back. The grits I use for burnishing the oil are 400,500, 800, 2000 and 4000. (This is the minimum number of pads. If you are not satisfied with the look, try using slightly less oil).

4. Proceed up through the grits to 400 DON'T WIPE DOWN THE SURFACE along the way..

5. When you reach the highest grit you want to use, you should have a surface that has blotches of oil and sanding residue.

6. Rub down the surface with a soft cotton cloth. (The bag of rags that Bunnings or Paint shops will have are fine).

7. Your surface should look like the Red Gum table I showed you in my last post. If it doesn't, then resand with the 4000 grit and rub down with a soft cotton cloth.

That's all there is to it. If it doesn't work, post your results and I'll try and solve the problem.

Regards,

Rob

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Hey mate,

I tried this technique. I found that the surface quickly filled with gunk, which clogged up the pads. I'm not sure whether that's your definition of pasty, but I'm not sure that the pads were having an effect when it's gunk on gunk. Any tips?

LGS is no longer on the forum. My understanding is that he passed away recently.

damn - top bloke....

Yes, sorry to hear about LGS.

This is an older thread. Just to add my 2 cents ... try Ubeaut Hard Shellac. I mix it 1:4 with meths from Bunnings. Paint or rub it on to a 240-400 grit sanded or hand planed surface, denib with 400 grit (hand held). Three coats, finish with your favourite wax, and you have a sublime surface.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cava

LGS is no longer on the forum. My understanding is that he passed away recently.

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sad to hear :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yoboseyo

sad to hear :(

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Very sad to hear. Rob was very helpful and generous with his time..

As a very late response for anyone using the info supplied by LGS (Rob) above in this post.

If you are using a ROS (Random Orbital Sender (which you should be)) for burnishing the oil:

• Do not use abrasive discs that have dust extractor holes.
• Use no hole Wet & Dry velour/loop backed abrasive discs .
• Do not have vacuum/extractor attached to sander.
• The above may save your ROS from clogging with oil and dust.
• You should ideally add oil and burnish it with finer and finer grits over a period of time. Finishing off with at least 2000 grit or above.
• Save your last finest abrasive disc even if fully clogged and glazed with the oil.
• This saved, clogged, disc can be used to burnish the surface again, if later on the surface dulls off as it sometimes does

Hope this is of some help to anyone wishing to try Robs method.

Cheers Neil :U

PS If you're having trouble getting the finer abrasive discs try Smith & Arrow or The Sandpaper Man both listed in the right hand Forum Sponsors column.
:2tsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ubeaut

PS If you're having trouble getting the finer abrasive discs try Smith & Arrow or The Sandpaper Man both listed in the right hand Forum Sponsors column.
:2tsup:

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Thanks Neil !
However Smith & Arrow only seem to have up to 800 grit (in 125mm size), and Sandpaperman tops out at 1500 in hook&loop. Is foam-backed ok to get to 2000 ?
cheers
phil

I've been working on burnishing technique using LGS's method. I've been getting more of a matte finish than a glossy finish. I was wondering if anyone has any input.

I've been letting the residue build up after successive grits and not wiping it off. However, instead of turning into an oily slurry, it dries out and becomes more of a gunk and I'm not sure whether it's actually polishing. The residue layer on the pad gets quite thick and dry too, so I'm not whether any actual sanding is happening either.

Should I be applying oil throughout the process?

Try adding a little oil to the sanding disc NOT the timber. Just dab a little on the disc from a damp rag.