Cheap Grandfather Clock, Darken Wood & Wooden Veneer

I wouldn't have sanded it like that exactly. Just lightly after a good wash off is enough for it to take a stain .

If you lick your finger and can wet a dry bit and it soaks it in its going to take a stain . Get a rag with some water and do some small tests where you think its good and where you think its bad .

Those parts a few mm above where the side meets the base look like they still have colour . A cabinet scraper can clean that up good . But do a small water test there and see what happens between the raw sanded part and where there still may be finish .

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Originally Posted by auscab

I wouldn't have sanded it like that exactly. Just lightly after a good wash off is enough for it to take a stain .

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So are you saying I shouldn't aim to take all the stain out?

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Originally Posted by auscab

If you lick your finger and can wet a dry bit and it soaks it in its going to take a stain . Get a rag with some water and do some small tests where you think its good and where you think its bad .

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This advice is worth its weight in gold, never thought of that! - thanks Rob!

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Originally Posted by auscab

Those parts a few mm above where the side meets the base look like they still have colour . A cabinet scraper can clean that up good . But do a small water test there and see what happens between the raw sanded part and where there still may be finish .

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Yes I see it, I'll give it another going over. Where can I get a cabinet scaper?. I sent you a PM and you sent me my PM back without any reply?.

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Originally Posted by sheeny71

So are you saying I shouldn't aim to take all the stain out?

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Not the old stain . Its to late now though . If your going darker the old stain doesn't matter. And you would have had an equally absorbent surface once the old polish was gone . Now Id say your going to have to make the rest the same as the sanded bits you've done .

But test and see !! Does a stripped and lightly sanded part take your stain the same as the ripped into new sanded surface ? Id say the deep sanded is going to drink in the stain and be darker . Your going to have to test or just sand the lot the same.
you probably should be going finer than 120 as well .

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Originally Posted by sheeny71

Where can I get a cabinet scaper?.

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Well , where have I heard that asked before ? And the burnisher ? And how to use it ?? :)

Scrapers . I make them from old saws . Haven't bought one for thirty years . Try Carbatec maybe if you don't have the cutting and grinding machines .

The Burnisher .
Try getting info here. Card scraper burnisher

See photo's for progress thus far. Stripped, carefully sanded 240-400grit until my fingers bled.

I found a few holes and dents at the bottom of the case which need filling (see photo's). Should I fill the holes/dents now or after its been stained?. Also, should I use Timbermate for the filler because I have loads of the stuff.

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Originally Posted by auscab

You need to pick a stain you like and know how to seal and polish If you want the hand polish look . Which is a fine look .

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I've chosen Feast Watson Prooftint Mahogany Interior for the stain and yes I'd love to learn how to do the hand polished look. Directions and materials are very appreciated!.

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Originally Posted by auscab

What gives a good look is at the start, staining lighter than you may actually want at the end, and adding colours and effects on the way up within the layers to end up where you want with an un noticeable distinctive variation in the finish on the way through . One great way of getting this is trying your best then stripping it back by rubbing off the lot with Metho . leave some there and start again .

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How would I go about staining it lighter, use less of the stain or thin some down in a cup, what do I use to thin it though?.

All replies and comments appreciated. Be gentle with me tho I'm very much a beginner!.

Prep job looks good .

Is it the Mahogany in this you have ? 3 down right column ?
If it is, Its awfully Red and nothing like nice original Mahogany .
Your better off finding a picture of something with a colour you like and showing it maybe . Unless its Red you want ?
Attachment 465749

I forgot to mention, the backing board that was stapled to the back of the clock was also glued and unfortunately got damaged, I got some 3mm hardwood for the back which I'll cut to the same size and hopefully no one will be the wiser!.

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Originally Posted by sheeny71

How would I go about staining it lighter, use less of the stain or thin some down in a cup, what do I use to thin it though?.

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Your going to have to test to see how it thins . Id guess and say all purpose thinners is going to work . If you have some tip a little in a clear jar and drop some stain in and watch it holding up to the light . If it dissipates and thins out then that's good . Turps, Metho and water could be tried . I doubt its a water stain though . Ive never used it . Test by spreading it on wood with a rag as well . On an inside bit not seen .
Does it not say how to thin it on the container ?

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Originally Posted by auscab

Prep job looks good .

Is it the Mahogany in this you have ? 3 down right column ?
If it is, Its awfully Red and nothing like nice original Mahogany .
Your better off finding a picture of something with a colour you like and showing it maybe . Unless its Red you want ?

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Ok well if it turned out to be that colour I would be p*ssed!lol, I did a sample test on a piece of pine I had knocking around though just to be sure, I'm not totally sure if the colour would be the same on the clock case?


Attachment 465750Attachment 465751

I would like it this colour:

If you touch the fresh sanded clock case with that stuff its going that colour .
See how with the pine its sucking it up into different grain direction bits . The clock case end grain will probably suck extra in as well and look worse at those parts .

You need to first sort out the thinning . I wouldn't be using anything there at full strength I dont think .

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Originally Posted by auscab

If you touch the fresh sanded clock case with that stuff its going that colour .
See how with the pine its sucking it up into different grain direction bits . The clock case end grain will probably suck extra in as well and look worse at those parts .

You need to first sort out the thinning . I wouldn't be using anything there at full strength I dont think .

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I'll post some photo's tomorrow of the other furniture I have in the room, basically I want it to match my large bookcase, side table, tv unit. If you can advise me on a stain that would most likely match that would be great. Thanks for helping me out mate.

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Originally Posted by sheeny71

I would like it this colour:

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The darker front to carcase or the lighter door ?

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Originally Posted by auscab

The darker front to carcase or the lighter door ?

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The darker front. I'll get some better photo's tomorrow of everything.

If your using Feast Watson Prooftint Stains they say to use Colour Reducer- I used to use it but I now just use metho. Does the same job.
Coles sells metho guaranteed at no less than 98%. That’s what I use.

Start with a very diluted mix. I normally use cloth to rub it in then rub it off. Build the colour up over a number of coats. If it’s way too light, add a little more stain to the mix. It easier to start from light and work to darker but hard to lighten up from dark as it’s a stain and penetrates.

As has been mentioned, take care with end grain as it will absorb the stain more readily. I have found that it actually goes darker with the same number of coats than the other surfaces so take care and dilute the mix more and use less coats.

correction: just checked - Coles metho is guaranteed 95% not 98% as I stated.

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Originally Posted by Lappa

If your using Feast Watson Prooftint Stains they say to use Colour Reducer- I used to use it but I now just use metho. Does the same job.
Coles sells metho guaranteed at no less than 98%. That’s what I use.

Start with a very diluted mix. I normally use cloth to rub it in then rub it off. Build the colour up over a number of coats. If it’s way too light, add a little more stain to the mix. It easier to start from light and work to darker but hard to lighten up from dark as it’s a stain and penetrates.

As has been mentioned, take care with end grain as it will absorb the stain more readily. I have found that it actually goes darker with the same number of coats than the other surfaces so take care and dilute the mix more and use less coats.

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Great tips, thanks Lappa.