Printable View
Main reason for not going with slab is I want the bathroom to be lower. It’s currently 20mm ish higher than main house. Without screed. I will google but can you provide info on precast plank/ bevel floor. Thickness, strength. Cheers ShaneQuote:
Originally Posted by Beardy
Ok then, the type of companies I was thinking of were the likes of Ultrafloor, BCG etc but height might be an issue. I don’t know if Hebel does a self spanning option offhand but you could also look at Bondek.Quote:
Originally Posted by shanesmith80
You could look at laying a slab to falls and glue fixing the tiles to save the screed height
Making progress.
Slab a lot thicker than anticipated and some interesting reo. A bed rail and couple of leaf springs so far. That and random pieces of bar going everywhere. Coming away from wall pretty easy though.
just though I’d let you know the house still standing. Although I probably won’t be for much longer. Seems I don’t have the stamina I used too.
Attachment 448576
Cheers
shane
the existing slab being "thicker than expected" might be good news in respect to how high you can install the new floor joists
Firstly thanks to all the great advice so far, if we ever cross paths the beers are on me.
Destruction done and back to bear bones. Waiting on timber for ledgers and joists and plumber coming monday.
So planning ahead for the walk in shower. I have read many posts about the water stop angle and glass panel and I have to admit I'm more confused. Most posts I've read talk about the glass panel being in a channel. Or on, under ,around water stop angle.
Our plan is for the glass to sit straight on the tiles (with a bead of sealant) as seems to be quite common now.
Now I'm a person who needs pictures, so I've drawn 2 examples of where I have read the panel goes. (Sorry I forgot to draw in the waterproofing but it will be under the screed and quite possibly over the screed as well, belt and braces kind of thing).
So option 1, panel in shower
Attachment 448770
Option 2, in main area
Attachment 448771
If option 1 which seems to make sense, the floor will be falling away to the back of the picture. Do I just put more sealant under the back or get a glass panel cut to suit the angle( this seems unlikely).
cheers
shane
You can do it either way but I normally set them up on the higher level as if you put it on the lower side you end up with a 10mm silicone joint on the side face as well as the bottom which you can see through the glass from the shower side. Over time mould and grime find their way in and you can see it through the glass but can’t clean it.
I have also done them where I have set a channel in the wall and ceiling and set the glass in with it suspended about 3 mm off the tiled floor so that no grime can accumulate, a much more expensive and complicated way to do it though
As an aside, when you set up your shower angle it should be sealed to the membrane floor ( as should the threadhold angle) not just sat in the tile bed which was common practice in the past. If you don’t water will still find it’s way through the bed and leak
Interesting idea but with 2800 ceilings might be a bit much glass.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beardy
The angle will be sealed to the floor (cement sheet) when doing rest of room like in picture below(I like pictures). Is that what you mean?Quote:
Originally Posted by Beardy
Attachment 448789
cheers
shane
Your last post is the way to go but if it were me I would set an aluminium channel exactly level before tiling ten just tile up to it and the screen sits in the channel with a glazing gasket or silicon. Your screen supplier will have the correct size channel to suit the required grade screen you will be using
Shane I would move the screen in your image more to the left over the angle so that the silicone joint does not need to be so big,
i don’t know if it helps you but here is a screen in a bathroom I did about 3 years ago, the screen is sitting on the higher main floor tiling. You can see that the silicone joint is small
Attachment 448801