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I only use one.. it goes in the kitchen/ living room at night and during the day it's outside the bedrooms / bathroom at the other end of the house. I still get some condensation, but it's much reducedQuote:
Originally Posted by Tiger
Putting in extra vents will help if you have dry air outside, I dont.. it's often 80-90% humidity outside so I'd just be sucking in more water.
Ian
Ianab,
How much would a dehumidifier like yours cost?
Tiger,Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiger
Check out this site for GTP brand dehumidifiers:
http://www.antidamp.com.au/frame_d.html
Ive just ordered the DH24 model for my workshop here in Adelaide...cost $1100 and they picked up freight costs from Sydney to Adelaide. The other models are a bit cheaper but have lower moisture removal rates.
The best machines are made by Mitsubishi but theyve stopped importing them into the country. A questionable move as the machines are in high demand.
Cheers
Martin
[QUOTE=kiwigeo]Tiger,
Check out this site for GTP brand dehumidifiers:
http://www.antidamp.com.au/frame_d.html
Ive just ordered the DH24 model for my workshop here in Adelaide...cost $1100 and they picked up freight costs from Sydney to Adelaide. The other models are a bit cheaper but have lower moisture removal rates.
Mmm Martin, and you bought that for your workshop:eek: , I can see we come from different ends of the spectrum, I'm at the poor end. I don't think I'd mind if there's mildew in the workshop because I know my wife's not going to say "can't you fix that, I'm tired of cleaning that up every week". If I have a lazy $1000 hanging around I started fantasizing about my next big tool, but thank you for your advice, it will be carefully considered ;) .
Does the staines pergola book have any info on gable roofs....I have a layout similar to the one that is pictured by tiger (just longer), and i want to convert it to a gable roof line.
[QUOTE=Tiger]Tiger, yes it sounds excessive but I dont have kids and my wife works so we have a bit more spare cash than the average person.Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwigeo
In the workshop Im building guitars and humidity is an issue.....need to keep it below that of the environment the guitar will eventually end up working in.....it reduces the chance of me seeing instruments boomerang back for repairs.
Note I quoted the most expensive GTP machine....there are two smaller machines in the range which are a bit cheaper. Occasionally youll see dehumidifiers advertised on Ebay. Another option is to pick one up in NZ if youre over that way....dehumidifiers seem to be the big thing over there at present and you see alot of good second hand machines on sale there at reasonable prices.
Cheers
Martin
You mentioned the pipe heads toward your hot water heater. The side connection of the unit should be clearly marked if it is natural gas.
Do not play around with gas piping unless you are really keen....get a plumber.
The really flash ones like kiwigeo is talking about can set you back $1000, but you can get a good smaller unit for under $500 and I think I paid about $350 for my Taiwanese 'Brandname of the Month' unit. The smaller ones are less powerfull (remove less water per hour) and have less flashing lights and buttons, but still do the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiger
http://www.retravision.com.au/apps/s...?category=1333
Cheers
Ian
Firstly Prop the bigger beam up and unbolt it, then cut the beam down the line of the bolt holes. It looks as you have enough room there to butt another beam up to it, do the same to the pitching plate, the rest you can figure out.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
Secondly See if you have weep holes in the brick work under the window, if not put some in, if so, see if their blocked with mortar. If this doesn’t work I can’t help you! <o:p></o:p>
Thirdly Just make the dwarf wall access door to swing over the pipe. I can’t tell from the pic!<o:p></o:p>
Good advice there Ian. The cheaper machines are probably ideal for Tigers purposes. I need pretty tight control on humidity levels (40-50% constant) so am tied to models with an accurate and variable humidistat control. Also need machines that can be left running around the clock and with an external drain.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ianab
I note that Retravision have the Mitsubishi model on their website.....if theyve got any left in stock grab one....theyre not being imported any more and theyre one of the best machines around.
1. That beam is supporting a lot of weight, suppose I'll get some acro props to hold the weight up or is there an easier way?Quote:
Originally Posted by Auspiciousdna
2. The weep holes are there about every 1.5 m but I did notice that we have large windows, maybe more of these weep holes are needed. Also noticed that the room that is probably most affected has a weep hole that is very rusty whereas the others aren't, not sure what that means. Some of the weep holes had about a 20% blockage of mortar but some were obsucred a bit by the floor bearers.
3. Did think of that but the door would run into the row of bricks that are on the bottom sill of the window.
Perhaps you should get under the house and see if there is any moisture there. It should be really dry under there. If not, you may have problems with moisture that go beyond a bit of mildew on the window frames.
Trav
I do spend a bit of time under the house especially when my mother in law visits, take my tools down there, pretend to be busy and as she is beginning to leave (I know because I can hear most of the conversations from down there), I'll come up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trav
There is a bit of moisture but I can't work out where it's coming from, it could be run-off from the side of the house but not sure. A plumber looked at it once and shrugged his shoulders. Anyone know how to identify the source of the moisture and what it could be.
Very rusty sounds like you getting very wet were the rust is.Do you have eaves?
Yes we have eaves. The house has a hip roof with eaves all the way around. There is only one weep hole that is very rusty, the rest are in reasonable condition.