Glasscoat

Hi. New to this site and very little idea what I'm doing. :?
Just went to Bunnings today and asked about product to seal/finish/thingy a coffee table I want to paint. It's made of lightweight wood and has some kind of wood veneer. Bit ugly really.
So I'll primer thingy it with this 1-2-3 stuff I bought, then paint it.
What should I use?
Paint it with acrylic and this Glasscoat stuff, so it's heat resistant?; or oil-based paint (as person in paint section suggested).
No idea.
And I don't have a heat gun to treat bubbles, so would that be something to hire?
:) (have to make this work or my other half will laugh at me - maybe).
Cheers.

Is this product available in the States? There are one or two woodworkers over here you know. :D

Has anyone got any suggestions as to finishing edges using glasscoat.
I have just used it to coat a timber vanity benchtop. The top self levelled perfectly but the edges being bullnosed came out dimply with drips on the underside.

regards Snowy

Just thought Id update my experiences with the 2 pack Enviotech stuff... some good some bad

First the good... everything Ive covered with it that is less than 1ft x 1ft it works brilliant hard as a rock an no depreciation of surface

Now the "it sucks"... The larger peices over 1ft x 1ft {eg: the two outer sides of the fat quater case that was to be a laptop case but didnt make it which is 20in x 18in on both sides} have a problem with heat as in warm days over 26C the surface is quite soft to touch and if over 32C is sticky although no coat comes of on your fingers it just feels sticky... the same problem is obvious with the two coffee tables Ive made and used it on a few months ago... so missus is impressed depending on heat of the day :roll:

However the coat doesnt set in dimpled as in where you put your fingers or rest something on the surface when its soft or sticky it doesnt take up the indentation but once freed or let go goes back to a flat surface and returns to hard when the weathers colder... good product for people on the pimple of Aussies bum or Pommyland I reckon :;

So my views based on that experience? Its a good product for smaller items veneer pictures jewelery boxes etc but not such a good product for larger peices... especially those used on warm to hot days ala briefcases or coffee table tops

Cheers

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Craftsmart

Notice that many of you are having a go with Glass Coat. That's just great. Suggest that you pay a visit to www.glasscoat.com.au to learn more about this product.
PS I manufacture Glass Coat and would be delighted to talk to any of your applications.

---

I've just had a look around your website, and I have some questions...

1. Is GlassCoat suitable for outdoors? I.e: full exterior exposure?
How long would it last under the UV Sun before needing maintenance?
Normally, a 1-part marine varnish needs a maintenance coat
every 12 months in full-exposure situations. 2-part marine varnishes
are said to last longer, but are much harder to maintain after they
inevitably eventually go off under the action of UV.

2. Would GlassCoat be considered a competitor for International's range
of marine products (e.g: their "Perfection" 2-pack varnish)?

3. Being a "pourable" rather than a "paintable", I'm wondering how one
should apply GlassCoat on a curved surface with undersides. In my case,
it's an exterior handrail of elliptical cross-section. With International 2-pack
"Everdure" I'm currently using a varnish roller, and then laying off
any bubbles with a foam brush if necessary.

4. Your webpage says GlassCoat is "odourless". Does that refer only
to its final cured state, or is the uncured 2-part stuff also odourless.
(If the latter, what is its base?)

G'day chaps
iv used somthing the same called kleacote (think thats how you spell it ) on clocks etc .iv sanded up to 1500 grit then used it, looks great, i thinkso anyway
what i would like to try is oiling the timber first,letting that dry off then putting a glass coat over the top of that . what do you think my chances would be of that working ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by maddog 62

iv used somthing the same called kleacote (think thats how you spell it ) on clocks etc .iv sanded up to 1500 grit then used it, looks great, i thinkso anyway
what i would like to try is oiling the timber first,letting that dry off then putting a glass coat over the top of that . what do you think my chances would be of that working ?

---

Why do you want to oil the timber? Are you just trying to stain it?
If so, I know that Feast-Watson prooftint is soluble in Everdure 2-part
epoxy, (but not turps). So it's possible to mix up a small amount of the
(unthinned) 2-part, add some prooftint, and use it as a wiping stain.
Allow it to cure fully for several days before applying a normal coat of
2-pack (with maybe a tiny amount of extra stain mixed in). That technique
seems to work ok. You could perhaps try an experiment with kleacote to see
whether the Feast-Watson prooftint is soluble in it, and if so, then maybe
use it in a similar way? Alternatively, you could maybe use Everdure for
the base coats, then sand lightly and apply something else over the top?
Anyway, please let us know how it goes.

P.S: using ProofTint + Metho as a wiping stain, and then overcoating
with Everdure does NOT work very well - the stain just re-dissolves and
runs everywhere most unattractively. You've got to "lock" the stain into
the timber with the first coat of epoxy.

thanks strangerep
it was just a bright idea that i had,you dont know these things unless you ask or try it yourself :p

hi i've found auto 2 packs to be very good as well fast drying, uv resistant, hard wearing, even under heat and if you get a mark on it cut and polish it like you do a car.
once you've done your final sand, clean it up so as it's dust free, apply a tack coat(very light coat) then apply 3 or 4 more coats, 15 min intervals. leave a couple days block back with fine wet and dry and apply another 3 or 4 coats. this has worked well for me a lot cheaper than the 2 part self leveling products and lasts for years.

Couple of points to consider that have been mentioned here..

Its rarely advisable to put any oily materials under films of any paint. If the oil is compatable (turps thinned) it can be used under turps thinned paints (enamels/varnishes) but steer clear of other types.

Oil stains are available for such paints their advantage being they dry slowly and are ideal for large areas as you have plenty of time to work them around and get them even. The oil is the same as a grease and you would always clean such off a surface before painting.

If you are going to apply any material onto wood don't spray the first coat, air may get trapped in the grain of the timber and you may end up with air bubbles under the finish. Pouring on, brushing or rolling works best and its always a good idea to thin the the first coat of material when brushing/rolling a bit to help it soak into the timber.

A tack coat is usually not only unnecessary in the majority of spray applications it can diminish or even cause the finish to fail. A light coat usually means you make the surface rough as the paint can't flow together so forms tiny lumps, the smooth surface you sanded is now rough making following coats come out worse than they would if the first coat was smooth because it was sprayed on wet. Wet coats also stick better as the material can adhere better if it hasn't had the thinner dried out from the dusting on of the light coat. Some paints need the solvent to redissolve the previous coat to adhere properly and light coats means rubbing abuffing and polishing to get the max gloss.

If you have the correct gun set properly you should apply the paint as if it was the final coat with every new coat. Somewhere in history some painters decided a tack coat was a safe way to apply the first coat to prevent runs in following coats but although that helps it was only going to run because they had the paint and technique they are using is off kilter.

"Cyco" is offering a good solution advising to use 2 pack auto paint its far superior than the household/ hardware paints available for interior or exterior use.

Although expensive its possible to not only get a clear which has fantastic UV resistance (up to 10 years or more) you can get versions which are just about impossible to scratch. These are used on some of the top class auto's to minimise vandalism. Use a spirit or water stain on the timber first or colouring can added by using tinters of the same paint to colour the clear

Being 2 pack the normal health warnings apply but there is no reason that you couldn't brush them. ( brushed a 1911 Rolls royce with it once) easier to brush than normal brushing enamel. As its meant to spray you need to buy slow hardener and thinner to give you time to play with it ( and avoid hot days).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by durwood

[...] "Cyco" is offering a good solution advising to use 2 pack auto paint its far superior than the household/ hardware paints available for interior or exterior use.

Although expensive its possible to not only get a clear which has fantastic UV resistance (up to 10 years or more) you can get versions which are just about impossible to scratch. These are used on some of the top class auto's to minimise vandalism. [...]

---

When you say "up to 10 yrs or more", is this in the case when the auto is
kept garaged when not in use? If so, how long between maintenance coats
could it last if it received full sun & weather exposure all the time?

Garaging etc helps but if you look at a 10 year old car made here (foreign cars often arn't designed for our weather) most will be more than Ok.

Washing/cleaning/polishing helps but the paint exceedes 15/20 years often. The polyurethane finishes used on Jumbo's etc are expected to last 20plus years before redoing and they get tremendous abuse doing the speeds and being subject to extreme temp changes.

All metallic cars have the clear on them, original finishes are baked enamel but the clears available to repair easily match or exceed the original. Metallics are a particular problem, the silver flake reflects the ultral Violet light which does extra the damage so the clear gets a double dose. If the paint work on a car is shot it is usually metallic.

Normal colours don't need clear on them but the COB colours (clear over base) are so good a lot of the cars are finished with colour without the flake in them and then coated with clear to get the protective gloss as it works so great and it makes the assembly line simplier for the manufactures as you are only dealing with one paint system not 2.

just wondering if the automotive clear would be any good to use on timber. i know metal expands and contract but timber would move more and wouldnt the auto paint crack or will it expand with the timber?:cool:

Black1

Auto paints are not a problem to use on timber, you would be suprised how much expansion and contraction and flexibility is needed for this paint on a car.

Check a smashed vehicle out the metal has to be folded pretty sharp before any cracking takes place. A lot of the parts on cars are also plastic these days, if you really want it flexible there are additives to add to make it flex with the rubbery plastics as well.

I have used these paints on timber on and in cars for years. Good quality cars (Jaguars, Rolls Royce etc) use this material on their timber dashboards also.

If the timber is prone to cracking no paint finish is going to stop that happening auto or any other type.

Hi all,

I have a similar question to Maddog's earlier one:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by maddog 62

what i would like to try is oiling the timber first,letting that dry off then putting a glass coat over the top of that . what do you think my chances would be of that working ?

---

In reply to that Strangerep asked:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by strangerep

Why do you want to oil the timber? Are you just trying to stain it?

---

This is exactly why I wanted to do this - to match some blackbutt decking to the other timber I've oiled.

Durwood noted:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by durwood

Its rarely advisable to put any oily materials under films of any paint. If the oil is compatable (turps thinned) it can be used under turps thinned paints (enamels/varnishes) but steer clear of other types.

---

Now, I've used the Intergrain (mostly turps-based) oil, so does that mean I could use it as long as I then use an oil-based poly etc? Or still not advised?

Strangrep also offered this:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by strangerep

I know that Feast-Watson prooftint is soluble in Everdure 2-part epoxy, (but not turps). So it's possible to mix up a small amount of the (unthinned) 2-part, add some prooftint, and use it as a wiping stain. Allow it to cure fully for several days before applying a normal coat of 2-pack (with maybe a tiny amount of extra stain mixed in).

---

Is this the safest option? Try to find a tint to match the oiled boards and add to an epoxy or follow cyco & durwood's advice and use a matched stain followed by an auto 2-pack.

Just out of interest, can you get decent auto 2-pack's at Repco et al, or need to find an auto supplier? Any recommendations there?

Thanks in advance,

Nick