Can you describe what a clear coat 2K off the spray gun mirror finish is like?

I have heard of people using special dark rubbing compounds to overcome the problem of product getting lodged in open pores and showing up white once it dries. I'm not sure whether its a commercially available product or not though.

Generally, though I dont really like 'piano finishes' (i prefer the grain of the timber to telegraph itself through the finish to some degree) I would not like to see gaping, open pores in lacquered work. Or maybe its an effect I just havent seen done properly yet.

Arron

there realy are a number of differeing views and methods of using nitro...a hell of a lit of nitro is sprayed quick and dirty....those who use this method are not looking for a fully choked out piano finish.

they basicky sand to somewhere arround 240 and slash the piece with a couple of quick thin coats of nitro....no grain fillers or sanding sealers required...this is typical of pine furniture..

This is not a fine finish.

Personally Im not all that keen on timbermate, I find it does not stay put when sanded with a random orbit sander and it most certainly dulls the light in timber...and it provides no structrual improvement to the timber surface,

sanding sealer on the other hand will usually contain translucent solids that still allow the light of porous timbers to show..and it consolidates the timber surface ( glues the surface together)well.

a good sanding sealer corretly applied will provide a more durable harder surface.

I remember on illustration that showed the process of building a good flat fully choked out surface to put a final finish coat on.

it showed pictures of hills and valleys.....it showed the valleys being filled more and more with subsiquent coats and the tops of the hills being mowed down..till all the vallyes where filled and the hills where flush with the flat finish and an unbroken film of finish covererd the whole surface.....then and only then is the time to apply top coats

Nitro, when prepared correctly with a fully choked and fully flat surface will result in a pretty damn smooth finish straight off the gun (mmm sooo grossy)..with no sanding swirls and no light broken by micro scratches from buffing....AND the light in the timber will show

but this takes time and skill..something that is short supply these days.

cheers

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Originally Posted by soundman

Personally Im not all that keen on timbermate, I find it does not stay put when sanded with a random orbit sander and it most certainly dulls the light in timber...and it provides no structrual improvement to the timber surface

cheers

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Agreed. I only mentioned timbermate because I figured it was the best of a bad bunch. I've also been struggling with the fact that when I hit it with an ROS it either sands to below the surface or jumps out altogether. I get there in the end with it but its a lot more work then it should be.

So what do you use when clear finishing for filling gaps which are small but a bit too big to be filled by sanding sealer. Any recommendations?

Arron

Yes, interested also in recommendations also. Do oil based fillers work better? Which brands if any?

Should you stick with the sanding sealer from the finish supplier, in my case Becker Acroma. I keep reading that shellac is universal as long as it is dewaxed shellac.

If I can eliminate the whole rubbing out process I'd be pretty happy!!

Regards
Gabriel.

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Originally Posted by Gabrielinc

Should you stick with the sanding sealer from the finish supplier, in my case Becker Acroma. I keep reading that shellac is universal as long as it is dewaxed shellac.
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Sorry, don't know that product so cant really comment.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Arron

Agreed. I only mentioned timbermate because I figured it was the best of a bad bunch. I've also been struggling with the fact that when I hit it with an ROS it either sands to below the surface or jumps out altogether. I get there in the end with it but its a lot more work then it should be.

So what do you use when clear finishing for filling gaps which are small but a bit too big to be filled by sanding sealer. Any recommendations?

Arron

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OK, answering my own question then, and just speculating. If what we are looking for is a product that sands flat just by looking at it sideways, doesn't shrink, very fast drying, doesn't jump out when power sanded and most of all is super quick to use then why wouldn't we use this http://www.selleys.com.au/fillers/ri...akafilla-rapid . I've just used it for a job that was timber with a white enamel topcoat and it ticked all the boxes. I'd always thought the product was for filling plasterboard but it said on the packet that it was good for filling wood - and indeed it was. Of course we would have to tint it if doing clear coating - maybe same colour as the timber or a bit darker to add a bit of grain contrast.

Its not very robust stuff, but if its just filling the grain of timber then that's not really a problem.

And I don't know if it reacts to lacquer - but worth a try.

cheers
Arron

Aaron, for that application also give pollyfilla for trims and doors a go. Sets rock hard but can be sanded. I have seen my painters use it to skim over anything. Doors to peeled off paint on concrete tilt ups.

I have picked up some sealer today and when I mentioned I wanted a choke out finish on my clear furniture, they didn't hesitate in agreeing that sealer was the way to go even with Precat. I also have some poly spraying to do as well so the sealer can be used with both. The polishing hand book mentions shellac as a sealer is good also.

Regards
Gabriel

I should clarify - just to make sure expectations are realistic - that a sealer is only good for filling the grain on less open-pored timbers. E.g. good for jarrah, blackwood and cedar, not so for NG rosewood, silky oak or sheoke. You need a grain filler for the latter.

Arron