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Hmmm.. after looking at those I guess my floorboards arent too bad. Luckily for me the black marks are where furniture is likely to be. I'll post some photos when I get a chance. This is the first time I am going to sand, any advise? Even if its obvious??
Mowy, going back to your original question first - I think some colouring can add character but if it is one spot then it will be noticeable. Replacing the floorboards in that spot isn't an option because the new boards will stand out, probably more than the stain because they will have a square look to them. If it is so bad that you want to replace floorboards, the best thing is to just move them from a less obvious area because the best match for your existing baords is to use your own boards. Even try lifting a section of carpet that you won't be sanding to see if any boards there are worth scavenging.
With floorboards, decide on what finish you want first as this will effect the final grade of paper you need. Low odour, water based finishes need to be sanded much smoother than oil based because they will raise a nap when applied. While they dry quicker, they need extra sanding so you don't necessarily save much. It's probably best to just avoid water based finishes anyway.
Thanks for that. I was going with Wattyl Estapol Gloss (which I believe is a oil based finish). Has anyone used this product? I basically picked this one for its price over cabots CFP. It was basically about half the price of cabots. Any opinions on this product? Also what is the best applicator to use?
Regarding the water stains, I had a big black patch just in front of my kitchen sink, I used a product called Intergrain Revia, available from Bunnings, It is a timber cleaner and it did a good job of removing the stain
Grinner
Hi, everyone, the timber is Radiator Pine, not Baltic Pine as first thought.
Judging by the pictures, I'd say that pretty much all of that colour can be sanded out, leaving just small black dots where the nails have rusted.
To help blend the black dots in I highly recomend that the floor be stained, or at least tinted to help get rid of the stark "yellowness" of the pine which only makes the black stand out fairly dramaticaly. Maybe go for a bit of a Walnut type colouring.
As for the holes left from the removal of the underlay, I'd suggest Timbermate Putty, in a Teak colour (not pine) which will virtually leave the nail and staple holes unnoticable. This putty is also stainable if you decided to go that way.
With the repairs that may be needed a good floorsander should be able to carry that out for you, without too much grief.
For maximum wear and a great look go for Wattyl Estapol 7008, which is their two pack product and is clearly the best on the market.
Why don't you try using a deck cleaning product? Like AussieBruce said, oxalyic (sp??) acid, which is the active agent in decking cleaners, can work wonders. I've seen decks come back to life with this stuff. On my own deck, we got rid of heaps of black spots etc - I think it improved some of the black marks left by old nails (it is a recycled timber deck) but it didn't get rid of them. Then again, we weren't really trying to.
If it doesn't work, you've only lost about $10...
Trav
If you have a marine store near you for example Whitworths [you can buy online] they sell a number of wood cleaners Like Deks Rensmarine wood cleaner and brightener that are pretty good, or try household bleach have used this to get water stains out of hand rails on the boat and it works pretty well
On coatings Carbothane CFP is a lot toughfer than Wattyl Estapol and there is an additive for CFP that makes it harder have used both and cabots appears the most durable and have just ripped up carpet in lounge room and I am giving tung oil ago because its easier to redo and lot less smell for the wife, have CFP in bedrooms and passage.
:rolleyes:
i just looked at your pics... i am a floor sander and i have done floors that are worse than yours and they have come up a treat. that high tide mark will go, you may not lose all the black marks but you will proberly lose some of them, in any case they dont look as bad when they are sanded. you will need to replace those odd species that have been put their to repair the floor. best thing is go to a recycle demolision yard and buy boards that are the same species and a few years old. get a floor sander who knows how to do board replacement, ring a contractor who builds floors. he will do the best job for you. tell him you want him to stagger the joins. d ont buy new boards and put in. they will be a different colour. use old boards and you will not tell the difference when you get them sanded. the only problem you may encounter is you may find that the old boards where they have been subject to constant water, they will have wood rot in them. you can tell by scraping the surface with a sharp iknife , and if the timber gives way and is crumbly, then you will need to replace them as well and most likley the joist under them. But as trevor said in his coment ...a 13mm overlay is great for this type of renovation.....gget a sander in to level it all and get a nice new timber floor installed. either way you will be happy. sanding costs about 20 to 25 dollors per sq mt, that also includes 3 coats .