How many coats of Danish Oil?

Hi Jill,
The look you got with the rubbed wet oil is what you should end up with after three coats rubbed in and allowed to dry. I'll bet there was more figure than you expected showing through. Once you've finished your oiling and have let the frame dry for, say 48 hours, you can use whatever you want You can use satin or gloss WOP, Estapol, two coat PU. I have a penchant for using EEE cream followed by Traditional Wax. It will give a beautiful satin finish to the frame. EEE is like a cutting agent and acts a bit like taking your sanding up another grit or two. Beautiful base for the Trad wax!

So here is a pic of some book matched Silky Oak panels in a cabinet, finished with Wattyl Teak (Scandinavian) Oil, EEE cream and Trad wax. You can see the lustre that the wax gives by looking at the top of the cabinet.

Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Regards,

Rob

Crikey Rob, just how beautiful is that finish on those panels, wow!!

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I'll bet there was more figure than you expected showing through.

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Too right there was, it was very encouraging :2tsup:

Thanks for the advice on the drying times and the EEE cream and Traditional Wax, Rob, sounds like the way to go, so will order some

Rob, Here is the information that I found on the uBeaut web site:

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Please use a finish over the top preferably one of the Shellawaxes, which are 100% compatible with the EEE. You can also use Traditional Wax or our Shithot Waxtik or any other wax over it. However because the wax in EEE is so tenacious it is possible that it may stop any other finish from adhering to the surface. So, if you intend using another finish EEE do a test piece first to make sure it will work. his may avoid some tears down the track.

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Have you had any trouble with the application of the Traditional Wax over the EEE cream? Do you need to take any speical precautions?

Hi Jill,
I think that that warning applies primarily to turning. I have had no issues whatsoever in the 6 years I've been using the two products. The wax goes over the EEE like a hand in a glove. Have no fear! No special requirements. Just a brisk wipe down with a clean cotton cloth, or if you want to get really excited, a Swansdown mop. (Which is also on the UBeaut site.)

Regards,

Rob

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Originally Posted by LGS

Hi Jill,
I think that that warning applies primarily to turning. I have had no issues whatsoever in the 6 years I've been using the two products. The wax goes over the EEE like a hand in a glove. Have no fear! No special requirements. Just a brisk wipe down with a clean cotton cloth, or if you want to get really excited, a Swansdown mop. (Which is also on the UBeaut site.)

Regards,

Rob

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What Rob said.
I have used EEE and Trad wax together on furniture

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Originally Posted by LGS

Thanks for that. I'm just curious is all. The closest I've come to a pure oil (apart from straight Tung Oi of course) is the Organoil products, which do contain some drying agents but not much else, They give a great finish if applied the right way.

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Hi again Rob
I spent quite a while looking for that link, but can't find it or anything similar. I'm now thinking I must have msinterpreted the info or had a "senior's moment". Sorry about that!
Cheers, Phil

Rob,
did you use a swansdown mop on those panels or is that finish just with the process stated and a "normal" rub off.?
That finish has really made the SO pop.
It has a real WOW :o factor when first sighted, I love it.
Cheers, Ian

Hi Ian,
No Swansdown mop was used. However, I have to say that the Wattyl Teak (Scandinavian) oil was burnished into the wood up to high sandpaper grits (4000g)
It really does make it pop!:)
But that said, you should still get a great finish by using the oil as Jill will and using EEE and Trad wax after it.

Regards,

Rob

Thanks for that Rob, look forward to giving it a go on my next project.
Love oils, hate most plastic finishes.
Cheers, Ian

Jill
I am sure you are pleased with your oil finish.

I love the ease of using oils and the quality finish.

I haven't found any benefit in wetting the wood to raise the grain unless I am using PU.
Oil wont raise the grain.

Sand to your preferred finish.
Apply 3 or more coats of oil, at least a day apart. Rub off briskly before it starts to get tacky, within 10 minutes for me.

I have tried rubbing the oil in with fine sandpaper and steel wool but I don't think it makes much difference. An extra coat of oil will increase the gloss if that is what you want.

The touch of an oil finish is magic.


Occasionally I have used wax or EEE wax because I love the shine but if you are going to handle the piece, you end up with finger marks.

The only thing I would add to the other comments is that I usually add about one third poly to the oil because the finish lasts longer.

My suggestion is to try the oil finish with less work and decide how much work you need to do to get the finish you like.

Hi Scally,

EEE is not a finish, it is Tripoli powder in a waxy compound. It is a cutting compound and will not behave a wax finish will. I have many pieces of work (furniture, boxes and picture frames finished with Traditional wax and don't have a problem with finger prints once the wax has been wiped off and allowed to dry. I also haven't had problems with finishes lasting without Polyurethane being added.
I too love oil finishes, but don't see why we should cover them with plastic. There really isn't a need.

Regards,

Rob

Hi all, as promised here is the result of three coats of Wattyl teak (Scandinavian) Oil 2 hours after it had been applied. The result matches the finish Rob said I would get. I must admit this is a far superior result to the Danish Oil I have always used previously.

Prior to each coat I wiped the frame down with 800 grit foam pads that panel beaters use. Each coat was then rubbed on with steel wool, and then wiped off with a cotton rag almost immediately - I didn't want to risk an uneven half sticky mess, and in the tropics where it is nearly 30 degC already, not sure of how long it should be left on.

Have posted a number of pics so you can get an appreciation of the beautiful grain. the first photo is taken just after the routing was finished, before the finishing process was started.The finish after 3 coats is very smooth, and you can see the light reflecting off the satin finish.

Next step is to wipe on a final 4th coat without steel wool, let dry for a few days, by which time the EEE Ultra cutting compund and the UBeaut Traditional wax should have arrived from Brisbane Carbatec.

Looks faaantaastic Jill. Excellent job.:2tsup: And no plastic in sight!!:cool:

Regards,

Rob

Hello JillB,
You might find that yoyu need more than 3 coats - but if not and you are sure that it is dried hard then you can apply you poly. You can then apply the poly (but dont use water based poly - shocker) and lightly sand between coats and ensure surface is clean and free from dust. Otherwise you can use wipe on poly (satin or gloss), which I find is terrific stuff. Minwax make it. Make sure that you give the tin a full shake, with each use. Hope this helps. Drillit.

It looks great.
Lovely finish.