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The framing code is more like information than a set of regulations - you get to find out how to build your house without it falling over and killing you because someones sat somewhere and done the appropriate calculations. Why should you get that for nothing??? Go to a library if you want it for nothing but then they might ask you to pay to join.Quote:
Originally Posted by chanquetas
Quote:
Originally Posted by capedcrusader
At least in Victoria all libraries are free.
Peter.
In Qld also, libraries are free. The standards are regulations set out by the Govt. I know that for instance studs must be no more than 450mm apart. Surely the Govt can tell me that, it is not undermining the efforts of a private individual to impart this RULE. It is not HOW to build, but what standards I must conform to.
As far as building the actual thing, fine, I will go out and buy a book called "How to build a House". I have no problem with that. But the Govt, if they want me to build to a given standard they should GIVE the standard...
See where Im coming from?
I fully agree, that is why I posted the suggestion of using libraries.
The government setting standards and not telling you what they are is the same IMO as booking you for speeding on a road without it being signposted with the maximum speed.
Peter.
Studs can be placed at up to 600mm centres, not 450mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by chanquetas
If you think you're going to find a book that tells you the one and only way to build your house, then you're going to be bitterly disappointed. Thankfully, there is no such thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by chanquetas
I wish you luck in your endeavours because I think you're going to need all the luck you can get.
Hooroo..
Standards Australia is a self funded body. The only way they get to do their work is by selling their products.
The Govt / Taxpayer does not pay for all the services this mob provides.
Regards,
Theva
Duckman I did say I was going to overengineer it. I think 600mm is too big.
As for Standards Australia, you may be right Theva but that doesnt mean that the Govt shouldnt subsidise them, and that we should have to pay for them. When I get a hold of the code maybe I'll post it on the web for all to enjoy. A bit of open-source for diyers.
You're confusing a few seperate things here, the Australian Standards, the Building code of Australia and the TRADAC framing manuals. Presumably you will be submitting plans to council. The plans will tell you your post, bearer and joist spacings etc etc etc. If you want to draw your own plans then that's another ball game entirely. I have in the past drawn my own plans using my TRADAC manuals as reference. However if you have no previous experience at building or designing don't think that getting a hold of a manual will neccesarily make it possible for you to build and design a structure. I don't know how helpful the Australian Standards would be, I've never sighted a copy and never worked for or with anybody that has either.
If there is a book entitled "How to build a house" I doubt very much that will tell you all there is to know on the subject. If it does then I'm sure a lot of people in the building game could have saved a lot of time doing apprenticeships, getting a few years experience under their belts and doing their builders licence. You say you are going to over engineer your structure. If you pay someone to draw it up properly for you you will more than recoup this cost on the savings on materials.
Mick
As I understand the Timber Framing Code is basically Australian Standard AS1684, which will of course tell me my minimum requirements.
As far as "How to Build a House", dont take me too literally, I will use the TRADAC manuals as guidelines.
The Timber Framing Manuals allow you to select smaller and cheaper sizes that will do the job. While I lke to specify larger than minimum sizes there isn't much point wasting money or timber by massively over engineering everything. Wind bracing, fixing and tie-downs are well detailled in the manuals too.
You can use AS-1684.4 Residential Timber Framed Construction - Simplified Editition if:
- Wind classification is N1 or N2 although this rating system recently changed
- The building is largely rectangular, L-shaped or of an essentially rectangular shape
- Maximum 2 storeys/8.5m
- Maximum 12m wide, excluding eaves (in the direction of the rafters/trusses)
- Maximum wall height of 2700, floor to ceiling at the external walls
- Maximum rafter overhang (i.e eaves) of 750
- Maximum roof pitch of 30 degrees
There are other limitations but they're unlikely to be a problem. If your plan does not meet these requirements then you need AS-1684.2 and even then, the major difference is higher wind classifications and more choices of timber grades and sizes. All the tables for 1684.2 are on CD. Beyond that you need AS-1684.1, which is aimed more at engineers. Beware that none of these manuals are as simple as the tables of 20 years ago. Even the simplified edition can require some study to get the most out of it.
Despite all this, your draftsmen/architect may specify most of the sizes on the plan though many cop out with 'To comply with AS-1684'.
EDIT: Building regulations are usually state law and they invariably refer to the Building Code of Australia as their construction standard. The BCA usually details an acceptable method of construction but will allow you to use an acceptable construction manual, usually an Australian Standard. In the case of timber frame design, they only allow AS-1684. All the state based timber industry manuals should be based on AS-1684.
Thanks Dylan, a very clear and lucid explanation, which has helped me understand things a lot better.
Hi Chanquetas,
I relied heavily on the contents of a very helpful Australian book "How to be a successful Owner Builder and Renovator" by Allan Staines which has very clear 3D drawings, illustrations and notes to make the building of almost any structure very satisfying. I can recommend the book as it is easy to read and follow and gives all dimensions and sizes of the appropriate timbers. But I cant rember how much I paid for it - it is now my own reference collection and if you are interested I can lend it to you since you are also living Brisbane. Just contact me privately and we can arrange something.
Aussieglen
Thanks for the info Glen. I have ordered the book from a bookshop in the city, but thanks heaps for your kind offer of a loan anyway. Id hate to spill red wine on it...
I believe the current standard is AS1684.2-2006 wich was released in Feb? Between this, the Timber Framing Code and even Allan Staines' book you shouldn't have too much trouble. The only area you will need to getup to speed on is tying a structure down. This is an area often overlooked, particularly with shallow roof pitches in high wind areas. Think of how an aeroplane wing acts, a roof is very similar. I have seen a series of 900mm deep footings be pulled out of the ground, taking more than a metre of dirt with each of them by a 15 deg pitch roof, its scary stuff.
Anyway your certification body/person will need to see all your tie down and footing details well before you start and these will have to be engineered.
Good luck:eek:
Try looking on the web for software called 'Timber solutions' , put out by FWPRDC. cheers:2tsup: