Is that measurement along the inside or the outside curve? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Aussiephil
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Is that measurement along the inside or the outside curve? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Aussiephil
I wondered what the hell you were talking about until I looked at the photo - aha!Quote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
Good to see Phil still alive and kicking and the dust discussion was of particular interest - I want to improve my dust control and got some good ideas from today's session.
I've got one of those dust monitors and have had it for almost 4 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussiephil
I did a review of it back when I first got it
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/...10#post2091861
The review is post # 143 in that thread.
Since then, apart from when I visit mens sheds where I bring it along as an example of a budget level monitor, it lives in our kitchen where it monitors SWMBO cooking dust.
A couple of follow up things with those meters.
The little button on the side that toggles the 2 display formats is quite fragile and liable to just come away when being pushed normally. If you can find the button :), it can be soldered back on. If not, any momentary switch or even a bit of metal across the soldered terminals will switch the display. I thought this was just me being ham fisted but its happened to at least two others that I know about.
They don't bounce very well. A mate of mine had his for about 3 weeks and he dropped it from bench height onto a concrete floor and it stopped working unfortunately he had thrown it away and I was not able to look at where it might have been damaged.
Mine ran normally - like I said mostly in the kitchen - and then I took it down the shed for a test run and notice it did not go above about 10 µg/m^3 even though my other meter was reading > 40 µg/m^3. I had a close look and found a tiny spiders web blocking the fan air intake, After clearing that it ran normally.
The other direction these sensors can give false readings at is around zero, ie it doesn't go to zero.
This can happen if it is subjected to high levels of dust whereby the internals of the sensor is contaminated with dust. Every now and then you should put it in a closed room (no air drafts or currents) or in a box and check that it goes to zero. If not, it probably has become contaminated. Blowing very gently into the fan intake may clear the dust but in the case of one the similar Plantower dust sensors in a home made meter I could not clear it and had to replace the sensor.
The particle monitor mentioned in the link above uses a sensor made by a company called Plantower and they claim their sensors have a manufacturers stated "mean lifetime between failures" of about 3 years of continuous use. This means the power to the sensor is left on - eventually I believe the small laser inside eventually dies. I have 5 particle counters with planter sensors and 3 have been continuous running for about 4 years and the only one that has failed was the one that was exposed to too much dust.
Despite it's issues I reckon they are still very useful an certainly better than nothing. If you consistently see >100ug/m^3 on these meters (50 if you are senior with health issues) I would definitely be doing something about it.
Outside of course :P, that sheds mine
That’s huge!Quote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
Is there a Friday Chat on today, an are ring ins welcome??.
Cheers Matt.
Once again, the recipe for workbench/toolhandle finish as passed down to me from my Grandfather. Also works on ironwork, best applied while the metal is hot (not red hot)
1 ltr of Pure Gum Turpentine
1 ltr of BLO
Grate up a block of beeswax about as big as a bar of soap and dissolve it in the mix. Keep adding beeswax until saturated.
Stir/shake vigorously before applying. Apply thickly, wipe off/spread any excess after 24 hours. Reapply as needed
Tip for a happy life - If you take the grater from the kitchen buy her a new one. Keep the old one in the shed, it will come in handy.
BooY, we noticed that you were logged in to the zoom meeting yesterday but there was a symbol instead of video of you and we could not hear you. Could you hear and see us?
Zoom can take a bit of fiddling to get going right.
Hey, yeh sorry about that kids played with the mic and had it flicked off to the internal monitor instead of the proper mic and didnt work it out until i went into another zoom later snd thry could barely hear me. I didn't have the webcam on me for the comp which is why it was an icon. I could hear and see you guys fine.
I came in late as I was trying to find the room details as there's few different ones on the 1st few pages
Hi all, I have made a post that can hopefully be made into a sticky with the Friday and Sunday online meetings links in it so that they are easy to find instead of being hidden in long threads, This might help prospective new attendees find the right link to log into as well.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f303/...46#post2272714
I won't be able to participate today.
I have another appointment.
Will anyone be at the prattle this week?
- - - Updated - - -
Will anyone be at the prattle this week?
That's a big "maybe" for me. I'll try to be there but no guarantees.
Should be there.
Sorry, Working.
Regards
Paul
Will anyone be there?
Sorry I've missed the last few. But the couple before that there was only a couple of people? We seem to be dwindling.
we have two of us here right now.
We ended up having a good chat today.
The topic for next week - bandsaws. Setup & tuning, usage, accessories, blades, etc.
My desktop pc has been out of action (in for repair) for the last 4 or 5 fridays :~ but when (if) I get it back then I'll be interested in joining future chats.
A couple of people today seemed to indicate that they were having difficulties making it on a Friday.
Friday is possibly not the best day for me either.
Just putting it out there - might changing the day inject some fresh life into the meeting?
Here's the videos I mentioned today for Lance:
Stumpy Nubs carving with templates.
How to carve a portrait into wood from a photograph (+ Arbortech Power Chisel review) - YouTube
Anyone can power-carve in wood! (Carving a folk-art eagle with the Arbortech mini-grinder) - YouTube
And a link to some info about the Foredom tool I mentioned, which is like a Dremel on steroids. Once you try one of these you won't want to use a Dremel again.
General information about Foredom tools
FOREDOM | Quality & Service Since 1922
They sell them in various package deals such as jewellery makers, wood carvers etc.
This is the wood carver package I have.
Foredom Woodcarving Kit, 230 Volt - My Tool Store
I hope you enjoy them.
And I might as well post the video I mentioned about making your own branding iron for a maker's mark.
Making a branding iron - YouTube
This comes from Torbjörn Åhman's youtube channel. It's well worth a look if you haven't discovered it already.
One for Pagie -
Would you think this would be a good investment?
VEVOR VEVOR Chainsaw Mill For Saws Wood Cutting 14"-36" Bar Woodwork Carpentry | VEVOR AU
Looks good, Can't see if well made or not, but should be ok.
It does look good, but there was reference in the comments about "rails." I presume this is a ladder/board equivalent, which provides reference for the first cut, but I could not find this item. Was anybody able to see that? Not having to drill the bar to hold the saw is good as long as the jig doesn't move and the nose sprocket (if the bar has one) is not compromised.
Regards
Paul
The tubing looks on the light side. Even with the bolts tightened hard with br and chain oil flying around one good push might see the bar and chain collide with the bar clamp bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
Its actually better to ditch the bottom bar clamps altogether, drill the bar and bolt thru the bar to the upper clamp. That was you can replace teh chain without having to remove the saw from the mill.
Attachment 513479
There are many ways to attach the mill to the bar nose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushmiller
#8 is the one that allows you to take the chain off the bar without removing the saw from the mill.
Attachment 513480
In most cases it's possible to drill right through the middle of the bar nose bearing - the middle is a fixed very hard steel disc that needs a carbide tipped drill bit - A touched up masonry bit works but be prepare for it to disintegrate.
Thanks for everyone's input. The item came up in an email I got from Vevor. I have bought a few items from them in the past which have been of surprisingly good quality for the price.
My chainsaw has a 15" bar so I probably wouldn't get much more of a slabbing capability than I can get with my 21" bandsaw and although it is tempting to get one of those mills at that price I really don't want to invest in another chainsaw. I'm not getting any younger and my back is not getting any better.
A 15" bar loses ~6" of cut on those mills so the largest diameter log you could tackle without substantial repeated log turning is 9"Quote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
There are mill designs (one ended minimills) that reduce that to 2.5" shorter than the bar so that would give you a 12.5" diam cut but how many CC and what make is the saw. Anything less than ~50cc is going kill most saws.
Bear in mind that a 300mm diameter hardwood log about 2m log weighs around 140 kg - Muscling that through a large upright BS is not easy and fraught with danger. It's far easier to split logs in half or 1/4s and then put the smaller pieces through the BS. Just using a CSM to mill a couple of flats on the log makes it a lot easier on a BS.
I use my small milling rig (25" bar/72cc saw) to break up even 20-30 kg logs. It's a lot safer an easier than using an upright BS.
This is Banksia. The rig can handle logs up to 1.5m long
Attachment 513488
My cross over point is about 15kg /700mm long logs and then I use my BS sled.
This is Pistachio.
Attachment 513489
You can cut planks from a log with a small chainsaw like Advoko Makes does using a small saw. This guy does some great plank making. I have tried it and found iy works well. You cut with the tip of the bar only. Yes the rails are normally a ladder.
In 1972 I, together with about half a dozen other student teachers, were sent for the first time to 2 weeks teaching practice at a local "boganish" primary school. I rocked up on a motor bike, leather jacket, with long hair and beard. Because one of the grade one teachers was crook the headmaster while addressing the student teacher group said, "Right, you lot in turns will be supervising that teacher's grade one class for today". I was up first up and after chasing some of the monsters around the playground for a bit I managed to get them inside the classroom and sitting down. I explained what was going on and then asked "Any questions?" one kid shot up his and and said "Are you the cookie monster?" Well that was it, the rest of the kids chanted "Cookie monster" for about 5 minutes and when I tried yelling they just did it more. I developed a lot of respect from grade one teachers after that :)
So.... you're onto me :CQuote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
Mystery structure on cliff over the Main river in Germany.
Attachment 513922
Here's a picture of the Tambour topped box I was talking about today.
This is an internet image since I haven't actually made mine yet and mine will be a little different but this is the general idea.
https://www.rockler.com/media/wysiwy...topped-box.jpg
I'll not be prattling this week but should here next time.
Doug, that box shares some features with my cubism challenge entry.
Doug and Pagie, the zoom meeting ended for me with about 3 or 4 minutes left on the timer. Second time this has happened to me - did it do the same to you?
It finished about the same for me too. We could always use Skype or FaceTime.
Yes there was still time left according to the timer, but I looked at the clock and it was exactly 12:40, which is the scheduled time to finish. I know sometimes it has started counting from the time the third person joins the discussion, which would have meant the time started about when Bob joined today. I have also seen a message at the end of chats sometimes saying the session was terminated because the host had not shown up.
I think they may have tweaked the settings on Zoom and maybe now the meetings just end at the scheduled time. Who knows?
Joined the zoom link, for the first time in ages, nobody in?