I hope there wasn't too much sugar in it for you.
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I hope there wasn't too much sugar in it for you.
I won't be in today. I will be driving up the Hume Highway.
Reminder for the Friday prattle and a call out to anyone with time to join in. :) three hour countdown
This weeks topic is: A continued discussion from last week
As always it is great to catch up regardless.
Friday: Time: 12:00 - 12:40 AEST - or better Midday on the east coast, 11:30AM SA/NT, 9AM in WA, 1AM UTC and 8PM US Central (i think)
Yep that's lunchtime for some of us so bring a coffee and donut - breakfast for the west and evening meal time in the US
Join Zoom Meeting
Launch Meeting - Zoom
Meeting ID: 789 4886 9892
Passcode: 123
Cheers
Phil
Sorry guys, I won't make today, can't talk at the moment.... i know that's a blessing :)
Cheers
Phil
This is the stroke sander that I think lance could have used: If he had one!
Attachment 504929
The rails allow the job to move in and out of the machine and the rod with the black knob is manually pressed down from inside the belt and can be positioned anywhere along the belt as it can be slid along the long axis. Primarily they were intended for sanding doors and windows, but really any large job. It's a beast.
Regards
Paul
Pretty hard to collect the dust.
Reminder for the Friday prattle and a call out to anyone with time to join in. :) three hour countdown
This weeks topic is: The end of the year and any woodworking adventures planned. I do if i ever hit order on the online cart :)
As always it is great to catch up regardless.
Friday: Time: 12:00 - 12:40 AEST - or better Midday on the east coast, 11:30AM SA/NT, 9AM in WA, 1AM UTC and 8PM US Central (i think)
Yep that's lunchtime for some of us so bring a coffee and donut - breakfast for the west and evening meal time in the US
Join Zoom Meeting
Launch Meeting - Zoom
Meeting ID: 789 4886 9892
Passcode: 123
Cheers
Phil
Lance
Following on from the last "prattle" there was the issue you had of flattening a wide board for a friend: A board too wide to go through a thicknesser or a drum sander and with added difficulty as the strips of timber did not have the grain all going in the same direction. Really, to my mind, a hand held belt sander may be the only practical solution. Having said that, it occurs to me as I type that if you could secure the board firmly to the floor (improvised strips of wood anchored to walls ?), you may be able to use one of those large drum style floor sanders, which can be hired from the likes of Bunnings.
However, belt sanders like these would be the go otherwise:
These are the two original AEG sanders with my own on the left from the early eighties and the newer version on the right from which I had planned to make one good one from two
Attachment 505140 Attachment 505141
However, I needed to use a belt sander before I got to rebuild them and bought a low level (price wise) Makita which is remarkably similar except that it is 940W compared to 1010W for the AEGs. I can't quite remember the cost but I think it was in the vicinity of $150. Makita do make more expensive models if you wish, but I was happy enough with the Makita I purchased.
Attachment 505142 Attachment 505143
My issue was the raised section of the cheese board, which after gluing up in three pieces, needed to be flattened on the under side. The centre raised divider presented the issue. I could have packed it up with thin battens and run it through the thicknesser, but I chose to use the belt sander. Really for this purpose 100mm wide I think is preferable over the 75mm versions, but this will depend on your primary uses down the track. You do have to remember to keep the machine moving reasonably quickly as if left in one spot it will gouge a depression in no time. Although I was not timing, I think it would have taken less than five minutes.
Attachment 505144Attachment 505145Attachment 505146
On to the subject of rasps. These are the rasps and files I bought at Bunnings (still in their wrappers as I had forgotten I was going to test them out on the saw handle I recently made.) I have not yet tried the saw file. The Harp rasp is double sided flat and half round. The Bahco rasp has very coarse grain on one side but a metal file on the other. A strange combination!
Attachment 505147 Attachment 505148Attachment 505149
These are two Liogiers on the left (hand stitched 6grain) and a Tome Fetiera hand stitched rasp on the right
Attachment 505150
These are the handle maker's rasps, curved with the safe back as they are only stitched on one side. I have to say I only have minimal use for the two flat versions.
Attachment 505151Attachment 505152
And some testing which may not be that easy to see so I will give my impressions after the pix.
Attachment 505139
Each cut was made with ten strokes of the file
From right to left are the Bahco, Hart, Tome Fetiera (who I believe make the Bahco files and rasps) hand stitched, 175mm Liogier, 250mm Liogier. Then Hart again round side, Tome Fetiera round side and Liogier 175mm round side.
The Bahco rasp is extremely coarse and was very fast. Good value but a pity there is a metal file on the reverse side instead of a smooth rasp. The Hart, which also had a very coarse grain, was hampered by the teeth not going to the edge of the file and this acted as a limiter. Pity, as initially it cuts well and then is unable to cut further. Interestingly the half round side did not suffer from this problem and cut quite acceptably. The Tome Fetiera, which has been lightly used and the two Liogier rasps, which have been heavily used on very hard and demanding woods, cut just as well as the brand new rasp from Bahco and better than the Harp. This is more notable bearing in mind that although 6 grain is quite coarse, it is not as coarse as either the Bahco or the Harp rasps. Thefrench rasps were notably smoother to use, but I believe this is a function of the grain size.
I think the price differential between Liogier and Bahco is in the order of five or even six to one! I do really like Liogier, and although I have never used the Auriou I am led to believe there is not much to choose between these brands. I have just visited the prices and they are...jaw dropping! Forget the ratios I quoted above.
Regards
Paul
I will be away tomorrow, so unfortunately won't be able to join in on the Christmas Eve prattle.
Have a good chat tomorrow, and I wish you all a wonderful Christmas.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Tomorrow is one of those days where I make it if I make it.
If I don't, feel free to start without me.
In case I don't make it, Merry Christmas to everyone.
Can't make this one. Working. All the best for the festive period.
Regards
Paul
Happy new year all:partysmiley::partysmiley:
Ditto
Regards
Paul
For Simon:
These are 57mm long, recycled Ikea.
Attachment 505903
For anybody that's interested :wink: :
Method of combining wheels and lockability
Attachment 505904
We probably focus on placing the wheels on the fixed leg components. This is the opposite approach. The style of bench and available space may be an issue particularly on existing benches.
Regards
Paul
I like that - simple design, common components and stable when wheels are up.
Only thing I would say is that on a really heavy bench the screws in the hinges might need to be switched out for bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by labr@
Otherwise its nice and simple and workable.
DougQuote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
I agree that bench looks as though it is a smaller size and made of pine so a strong man in his latter years might lift one end with a single finger :cool:.
However, if we consider a 2.4m bench made of tougher than steel Aussie hardwood it might be a different issue, but I don't think I would stress too much. By all means use heavy duty hinges and the largest screws that will fit even if you have to enlarge the counter sink to accommodate them. The vertical screws in hardwood will have tremendous holding power and the horizontal screws will only need strength in shear. If you could enlarge the holes in a big hinge to take batten screws that would be perfect and would hold an African elephant (an adolescent :) ).
Regards
Paul
The screws going into end grain on the locking block is probably something best avoided, but as you say, Paul, it is more than adequate for the lightweight bench it is attached to. For that matter it would probably last for years on my 160kg Aussie hardwood bench too, if for no better reason than that I have no urge to move it in the near future.
That's a bloody good idea!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushmiller
I'm planning to build something like The Perfect Garage Workbench & Outfeed Table // Part 1 - YouTube (without the router table). I like the idea of hiding a shopvac and maybe a mini-separator in the bench, and having some gates for dust when using benchtop tools (sander, track saw, etc). Plus integated power strips on each end of the bench. Not totally sold on t-track, but I haven't actually used t-track or bench dogs in person.
Could probably do your idea on the end if the bottom cross-beam was raised a foot or so.
https://i.etsystatic.com/19806525/r/...60881_ov9j.jpg
Poll - what is good size for outfeed/assembly table?
1. Full sheet (2.4 x 1.2)
2. Shorter (~2 x 1.2)
3. Smaller (~2 x 0.9)
4. Other?
I guess I'd like to have enough space to feed a full sheet into the saw, and out the other side, which means 2.4 (in) + 1.0 (saw) + 2.4 (out) = ~5.8 ish. With a row of machines against one wall, that's pretty much the width of my shed.
I guess it should be the same width as my table saw (since it will spend 90% of the time butted up against it), and at least half a sheet of ply (say 5/8) long so I can push through and not have it tip off the far side. Say 1.8x1.2?
I suspect that nobody has made suggestions because it all depends on the type of work you do most often.
Here are a few thoughts that may or may not help.
For many of us space would be a major consideration but that is probably not so critical in your case, although you don't want to waste space either
One approach would be to work out what you would need as a minimum for most of the work you do and then add some capacity for expansion to cope with occasional full sheets or whatever else might be larger. That could be things such as foldable benches or gate leg extensions hanging off the permanent table.
Of course there is a trade off here because the expansion equipment will take time to set up. For this reason I would favour gate leg extensions on both in and outfeed tables as I think they would be quicker and easier to set up. They would also be more stable since they would be connected to the tables.
It really is a problem that requires an individual solution.
For me, I have a Triton wc2000 with the maxi extension table that will handle a full sheet of ply. After the first cut you aren't dealing with a full sheet of ply any more. Sometimes I position some of my four Triton multistands strategically to handle bits that might otherwise drop. There is also my new height adjustable assembly/infeed/outfeed table which can be used with any machine in the shed.
For me (and I am talking only about me) I find no reason to set up a massive table of a fixed height to catch offcuts from the tablesaw. I would rarely need that with the projects I do and even when it would be handy I can still make do with what I have. I don't find myself in that position often. I have 15m x 6m of floor space and a large, fixed table would kill me.
Within the next few weeks I will be cutting a lot of sheet goods because I will be re-skinning the frame on my box trailer with 4mm bracing ply (1.2m x 3.3m sheet size). I suppose a big outfeed table would come in handy for that but after that job is done it would just be stopping me doing anything else while it is taking up all the space. There's 5 sheets to cut in that job and there's 2 sheets of 12mm ply for some drawers that I can do while I am set up. I can have them cut up in less time than I could build the big outfeed table. And that's probably all the sheetgoods I will be cutting up in the next 3 to 5 years.
Agree. Suspect it'll be used more as an assembly table/workbench than an outfeed table.
In which case I will double down on this part of my previous submission. :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by lyricnz
I'm prepared to discuss my workbench and assembly table choices if you feel it is any help. But I think you have the jist of that already, Simon. But feel free to ask specific questions and I will try to be helpful. My setup and equipment pretty much allows anywhere on the spectrum between full-on handtools and full-on machine working.Quote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
Topic for this week?
https://scontent.fmel8-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3Q&oe=61EC31F1
Doug
That's a different sort of chainsaw. Are you attempting to curry favour with Pagie. Or is that the chainsaw that is child safe?
Regards
Paul
Maybe I just wanted to get the "C" word out of the way before we start. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushmiller
Well,
In passing I mentioned I had rescued some second grade pine (Bob was kind enough to point out that this may be tautology :wink: ) from the rubbish dump at work. So it thought I might take the opportunity to document the new lawn locker. Unfortunately, the lawn locker doesn't really stack up compared to Simon's shed and fitting out and does not really warrant a thread of it's own, so in a rather limp effort to steal some of the glory, here goes.
First up, the lawn locker which started out life as this cage
Attachment 506655
The interior steel and floor steel were gutted and used to create a skillion roof and additional horizontal bracing. The slab is the only concession to sophistication. It is under the plastic: Really.
Attachment 506656
It now looks like this, but needs a second coat of paint and then the door and flashing components can be highlighted in black just to tart it up a bit.
Attachment 506657
A neighbour spotted what I was up to and asked if I wanted a window. So the lawn locker has a window.
Attachment 506668
So to the rescued timber: Crates primarily. Trailer is 12' x 5' (Matt: that's 3600mm x 1500mm) to give some idea of quantity.
Attachment 506658
Lots of nails of course. Probably about three kilos. The only saving grace of the pine is that de-nailing is quite easy.
Attachment 506659
I had thought that the boards were the best looking prospects but ironically the long bearers one of the crates sat on were more likely the pick. There were five of these and as it happened that coincided with five studs on the only vacant wall in the LL. I took it as an omen and started building some racking to support my wooden treasures.
Attachment 506660
These are some of the components with one frame assembled on the right ( without braces). In amongst the sizes were a mile of 70 x 35 and that formed the rails.
Attachment 506661
It is all a bit simple tending to crude but it serves the purpose. I had intended to take some pix of the bare racks (no, not those sort of racks :rolleyes: ), but I couldn't locate the camera. As I put the last board in place and climbed into the ute I saw the camera sitting in the console!!
Attachment 506662Attachment 506663Attachment 506664Attachment 506666Attachment 506667
The frames had to accommodate my buckets of offcuts beneath so that dictated the height of the first "shelf" and the square frame is for any really heavy timbers: Not that the pine is really heavy.
Regards
Paul
Paul,
That’s looking very tidy and orderly, that’s mighty impressive,and thank you for bringing the older community here up too standard with a metric conversion.[emoji6]
Cheers Matt.
MattQuote:
Originally Posted by Simplicity
Don't mention it: Always happy to help out with modern technology.
:D
Regards
Paul
I can only put in a brief appearance today ( cameo? :D ) as I have my booster shot at 1130 our time (1230 EST). I do have a question about axes though. Is anybody familiar with the HB (Hults Bruk) brand from Sweden? I have a 4½lb (2kg) version, which I think may be a racing or competition model, which I am about to restore and re-handle.
Regards
Paul
The (too big) casters mentioned today 4 X 1000kg Heavy Duty Retractable Leveling Swivel Castor Wheels Furniture Caster | eBay
I need some about 2/3 that size.
I won't be able to make tomorrow's prattle as I am back to work in my state of semi retirement so as I mentioned this last week, here is an exclusive for the Prattle:
This was how the large Hults Bruk axe (4½lbs) I mentioned looked originally:
Attachment 507625Attachment 507626Attachment 507627
I cleaned up the head and fitted a Spotted Gum handle, which came out of a recycled power pole.
Attachment 507628Attachment 507629Attachment 507630Attachment 507631Attachment 507632
I gave it a light coat of BLO and it is now ready to perform serious damage.
Attachment 507633
Regards
Paul
Which makes me wonder how you cut down the power pole without a handle for the axe :D.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushmiller
I guess it's something for the rest of us to speculate on tomorrow.
Bob
Let me know what you come up with. :wink:
Regards
Paul
I have a fair bit that I have to get through tomorrow so if I make it, I make it.
If not feel free to speculate about how Paul chopped down the power pole without me.
I won't be able to come tomorrow either as I will be cutting logs up, down in Gippsland. Two saw job.
Hi all,
We had discussions on sheds and particle monitors plus general chin wag, nice to catch up again.
I showed off the little one I had, it serves to get a reasonable idea
There are many Ebay/Aliexpress vendors selling them, this is just one link, they have gone up a little from when i ordered.
Car PM2.5 Detector Tester Air Quality PM1.0 PM10 AQI Particle Matter Monitor LCD Home Gas Thermometer Temperature Humidity Meter|Gas Analyzers| - AliExpress
and for Simon here is a better photo of the shed i was talking about. It is 24x12x5 meters
Attachment 507671
Cheers
Phil