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Hi,
I am somewhat confused re what goes on raw timber first. Do you apply the stain then the sanding sealer or vice versa? I have read Neil's book and looked in this forum and admittedly I am not as bright as I used to be but I cannot seem to get straight what goes on first. Can someone please advise.
Also, am I correct that you should use a water based stain rather than a meths based stain under shellac?
Thanks,
Allan
The stain goes on first
You can put stan on after the fact to blend
You can spray the stain in with the sanding sealer or finish. Just make sure you spray several top coats to cover the stain or it will rub off.
There are hundreds of ways to finish. Nice pieces should be hand rubbed with oils. There are hundreds of oils and ways to finish wood. There are many books on the subject. Do not mix water based stains and finishes with oil. Water base anything is hard to work with. I would never use it. You need a spray booth and heaters to make it work properly. If you have any questions drop me the question to [email protected] I will get back to you when I get in.
Good luck Richard
There is no hard and fast rule about this at all. It all depends on what your trying to achieve. Usually yes the stain does go down first, but it dosn't have to and no you don't need to be spraying if you don't put the stain down first.
Waterbased stains are EASY to use and do not require spraybooths or heaters. But your everyday type of stain available at DIY retailers is also fine.
Richard,Quote:
Water base anything is hard to work with
Next time you are in Oz, load up with a heap of U-Beaut product including water based stains and go home and have a play.
You'll be amazed at what has happened on this side of the world!! You may even find that you can sell your spray booth! :D
No finish is all things to all people and all have their place, but waterbased products have changed a lot over the last 30 years they just aren't that hard to use any more.
Cheers,
P
Thanks for clearing that up, much appreciated
Allan
I asked Neil about water based stains at the wood show in Brisbane and he told me that they were hard to use and that they were really only for staining small items such as bowls that were being turned etc. He strongly advised me to use the standard Wattly or similar stains as otherwise I would have difficulty obtaining the sort of even finish that I wanted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane Watson
But did Neil indicate that you had to use heaters and spraybooths, as you only qouted part of what I had written.
My comments regarding the application of waterbased stain were in relation to 'Sailingamerican' commenting that waterbased anything was hard to apply having to use heaters and spraybooths. This is not so and therfor the application is far easier than he has indicated.
The original post was not questioning application benifits from waterbased to NGR stains or infact on the size of the project 'Alix' was reffering to (if there currently is one because he didn't mention any) but if you insist, what Neil has indicated is entirely true for a DIY or ametuer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Willson
I'm hoping here that I haven't misled someone...I'm a bit confused!! :confused: :confused:Quote:
I asked Neil about water based stains at the wood show in Brisbane and he told me that they were hard to use and that they were really only for staining small items such as bowls that were being turned etc
I have been rustling around without success trying to find the stain that I used three years ago to rejuvenate an old hardwood outdoor setting. It came in a plastic packet, I mixed the powder with water (it was coloured "dark mahogany", and it just slopped on with a brush and the residue wiped off with a rag, because it was water based it took a while to dry and gave a bit of working time. I bought it in an old-fashioned hardware store in the burbs in Bris, but for the life of me can't remember any other details.
Was I just lucky because I chose an agricultural job, and a very dark stain?
Do I owe SailingAmerican an apology? :eek: Looks like it! :D
Cheers,
P
No Shane, at no time did Neil indicate that any extra equipment was required if I was wanting to use water based stains. He did however posit the theory that I may need to become somewhat more experienced in the processes involved in finishing if I wanted to use water based stains, as my present level of expertise may have been somewhat lacking. Of course, he put it all a little more diplomatically than that. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Shane Watson
Well you now have me worried. I thought that it was all solved and I could use water based stains but now I am not sure if I want to try with the seemingly conflicting views on how difficult it is to use. I will have to try it on some spare timber and see what happens.
By the way no-one seems to have answered my second question: should you use a water based stain rather than a meths based stain under shellac?
Allan
Sorry Alix. there is no answer to your second question. If you don't already know the answer then don't ask the question. :cool:
Yep.
I identify with the first post: not militarily in this respect you understand. I read Neils' book (yes - but did you understand it, I hear you mutter scornfully). I read (thats 'red' not 'reed') product material - went to a couple of demonstrations of finishing and then jumped in and had a shot myself on test material because the advice was contradictory - at least to my way of thinking. I have used sanding sealer (non-filling) ie without the powder in suspension, under stain and it has worked just fine. It evened out the stain uptake by the timber and didn't affect the final finish coatings. I liked Shane's view that there is no hard and fast rule - that means that I am entitled to make my own mistakes and learn from them.
I have only two hard and fast rules: one is that a test is essential if one is ignorant of the likely results, and the other is that there is no hard and fast rule.
Regards
Alix
I've found where you are using timber that takes up the stain at different rates, some sanding sealers are useful under the stain.
There are some sealers that recommend they only go over the stain and others can do either.
The owners of the forum have one that can go under - link below.
http://www.ubeaut.com.au/sandseal.htm
I have found where you are staining end grain, the sealer being put on first gets a more even finish with the rest of the timber.
Not being the world's most proficient sander, I also found if I stain first, then put sealer on I can get a little too enthusiastic with the sanding and take off some of the stain, leaving a patchy finish
I've been dong some reading, asking and experimenting on this matter in the last little while & it can get interesting.
It depends on what sealer, what stain & what top coats you are using.
shelac is different to any other finish so has a different set of rules
you may be able to stain after shelac (as a sealer) but other finishes it may not recommended to stain between coats as adhesion / delamination problems can occur with the finish.
it is a complicated question.
on spirit based stains with shelac
you may be confusing what various stains are carried in turps bassed stains are most common in hardware land, & thinners bassed stains are common in industry.
Guys,
The question was prompted because both the stain and sealer (thinned shellac) I use are meths based and I was concerned that the sealer may interfere with the stain (melt it?) if the stain was put on first.
I will now ensure that I always use Ubeaut sealer so I don't have the problem.
Thanks for your help.
Allan