A True CLEAR Finish, How?

Hi All,

This is my first post and sorry if it's a duplicate.

I would like to know how I can get a TRUE CLEAR finish on light/pale timbers. Specifically speaking, I would like to get some Clear Grade Pine - but would like it to stay in it's natural 'raw' pale color. I've used Esatpol's and Polyurathan's (sorry for bad spelling) in the past - all introduce a "yellow" tint and effectively darken the pine/wood. I believe there are products out there that do what I want but they are difficult for me to locate.

Thanks for anyone who is reading & Happy Australia Day!

Try Rustins Clear Plastic - it is just that and it looks like plastic film (which it is), but it doesn't colour the wood. Go to Rustins.com.au for the details

I've used Ubeat's Dewaxed White Shellax on Huon Pine before. I've found it works really well for light timbers. It darkens them no more than having water on the piece.

Thanks Jeremy, I did dig around on some of the other posts and found people asking the same question. The theme of advice was not to use an oil based Polyurethane. Instead, be sure to use a Water Based Polyurethane.

Cabots have a product called "Crystal Clear" that *apparently* achieves this. I would love to know if anyone can recommend this? http://www.cabots.com.au/interior/furn_int_clears.asp

I will have a look at http://www.rustins.com.au/ because what you described sounds great... I just hope its a satin finish and not a gloss.

Thanks again!

I second UBeaut's White second and I'll also raise you Minwax wipe on poly - clear. I have found both work very well on pine when the aim is a great finish with no yellowing.

cheers
Wendy

Well I looked around for other's commenting on Cabot's Crystal Clear...

I've found some rather negative feedback.
"Stay clear of"... http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...63&postcount=2

"Dry's Cloudy" http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...48&postcount=2

"Yes, they all dry Cloudy" http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...62&postcount=3

"Don't use em" http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...68&postcount=4

The only positivish comments are...

"Result 'OK'" http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...08&postcount=2

"Does NOT dry Cloudy" http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...35&postcount=6

I don't know who to believe here :)

mrnobody,

I recently used Cabot's Crystal Clear (satin) on a MDF shelf with Tasmanian Oak trim. Three coats. The product darkens the MDF and TO trim as if wet.

Because of the quick drying time (20 - 30 minutes touch dry) you need to watch your brush strokes. Also, thoroughly clean the rim of the can before replacing the lid - this stuff dries rock hard. The overall finish is good.

HTH

Mike

I have used Cabots Crystal Clear on a piece of furniture made of hoop pine and it has kept its pale colour, the finish is very durable though.

I also used it on MDF and it does darken the MDF slightly.

So what you are saying is that using Cabot's Crystal Clear on pine, would result in a finish that looks like the pine (timber) "is wet" with water.

Effectively I would say this "darkens" the pine (or other timber) from it's natural dry colour. Sure it's clear, but it does sound like this is a discoloration of the timber (does anyone agree with me?).

Hey Hadamona, thanks for the reply... your reply is different to the previous that claimed Cabot's Crystal Clear darkened the timber as 'if wet' with water. Would you conclude this is true?

Te test is... if you put a layer of 'glad wrap' (aka cling film) on the wood it doesn't discolour. I want to achieve this coloring using a sealer.

I'd be interested to know if anyone has a solution to this. I didn't think it was possible to finish a piece and have it remain it's raw unfinished colour (i.e. not the colour when wet with water).

Hi There Afro Boy... I am interested in an answer too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Afro Boy

I'd be interested to know if anyone has a solution to this. I didn't think it was possible to finish a piece and have it remain it's raw unfinished colour (i.e. not the colour when wet with water).

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Well according to jmk98...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jmk89

Try Rustins Clear Plastic - it is just that and it looks like plastic film (which it is), but it doesn't colour the wood. Go to Rustins.com.au for the details

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I can see how a 2-pak plastic solution might achieve this (like the Rustin's Clear Plastic). But it seems like a hassle to get it anything other than a Full Gloss finish. It's also looks pretty expensive for large pieces of furniture (but might be worth it).

Here's a comparison between hoop pine and mdf.

Raw hoop pine sitting on a table with 3 coats of crystal clear
Attachment 94995

Raw mdf sitting on a table with 3 coats
Attachment 94996

Well, it got the better of me. I went down to my local hardware shop and bought some Water Based Satin Polyurethane.

I prepared an offcut of pine plywood, does this result in a yellowing finish??? you be the judge! But let me ask, can you see the 'clear' sticky tape between the finished and raw sides... because that it was I would call clear (and that's what I am looking to achieve).

Hadamona's "Raw hoop pine sitting on a table with 3 coats of crystal clear" looks perfect. I did not buy the Crystal Clear and perhaps this would yield a different result.

For the record, this might not satisfy my 'clear' needs but if you don't mind the result I would highly recommend Water Based Polyurethane. It was extremely easy to work with and gave a great result.

I'll move on to test #2 next...

Have you tried clear lacquer?

At work we do a whitewash type. The pine is whitewashed first and clear lacquered over top. When I first saw the end result I had to have a closer look and asked the finishing guy if it had been finished. It doesnt look like it was finished from a distance but on closer inspection it was.