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I'm trying to stain a curvey piece of radiata pine with a Wattyl interior stain. If you can imagine the wood starts off as side grain then along the curved surface it becomes end grain then back to side grain etc.
As I stain it the end grain goes dark then the side grain is light etc resulting in an ugly, blotchey light and dark coloured piece of wood.
Would one or two or more coats of sanding sealer before the stain stop this from happening?
More than likely. I'd even be inclined to use one maybe two very light coats of white shellac before staining. Naturally, always test on scrap piece first, but the use of shellac before staining is fast becoming a standard for me now, based on the reading I've done and my few experiences with staining.
cheers
Wendy
Worth a try. As Wendy says, experiment on scrap to assess the effectiveness.
Note that end grain is, in effect, the same as a bunch of straws side-by-side. Capillary action encourages any liquid to be sucked in more than on side grain, similar to sap migration when the wood was a tree. This will apply to sealers, shellac, and stains alike. I've had a wee bit of success by using diluted stain on end grain, but without the curved transition. That in itself could make for verrrrry interesting challenges. If the design permits, more abrupt transitions might be easier to stain, with different dilutions on each portion. Or, dispense with the notion of staining such a curved shape (probably a better plan of attack).
Joe
Thanks Wendy & Joe
I'm making a coffee table with cabriole legs. I hate using stain but was told it had to be certain colour so I did what I was told with, what I first thought was, disastrous results. I found that rigorous rubbing with a cloth with turps on it took most of the blotchinous out. Luckily I only stained one leg.
Today I applied several coats of U-beaut sanding sealer to the other three and the results were much better. Still not even but the turps on the rag trick made it better.
I've decided I hate stain even more now than before and will never, ever, ever use it again. Stupid stuff. Whoever thought of it should be strung up. Grrrrr
Hi Kev,
What you are doing can be very frustrating..... as the endgrain sucks up the stain or varnish/lacquer/oil more than the rest, the colour will always be different! not just stain... :oo:
So that is why people do things like using shellac to seal it a bit... more on the endgrain part than the rest. With pine, you really have to work well through your range of grits and this is where going to 320 will make a difference... less blotchy. The other thing you can try is using a rag with a little turps and try reducing just on the endgrain parts. I have a pine table top and with care was able to avoid the problem on the end of the top.
Others, seal it completely and then spray it with an all-in-one stain/varnish
Yes, life would be simpler if everyone learnt to appreciate natural finished pine!:2tsup:
Cheers,
Chipman:)
As a user
Thanks to Chipman's post:2tsup:, I've finally remembered the tip I read recently, which is to sand the end grain to a couple of grades higher than the other faces. This should help (as well as the shellac) to reduce the endgrain take up of stain.
cheers
Wendy
Quote:
Originally Posted by RufflyRustic
Thanks Wendy,
That is what I meant to say but didn't do it properly (I am not well (flu) at the moment and a bit dopey:D)
Thanks for making it plain:2tsup:
I trying to finish a veneered chessboard at the moment but had to give up... can't risk destroying it at this stage...will wait until the brain is back in gear.
Chipman:)
thanks,
Hope you feel better soon.
I tried the end grain sanding tip on one of my projects earlier this year. Worked a treat. the only problem with all these hints and tips is that it's so easy to remember them after you need them:rolleyes::doh:
Thanks again Wendy & Chipman.
You're always a good source for info.:2tsup:
Isn't this a case of "A bad workman always blames his tools"? :qQuote:
Originally Posted by *Kev
<O:p
Fundamentalists who emphatically state they won't use stain because they believe nature can't be improved on are missing out on a whole prism of glorious tones and effects.
<O:p</O:p
Stains are fantastic for accentuating figure in wood and are essential when matching articles to older examples.
<O:p</O:p
I appreciate your frustration, but I would urge you take the time to practice staining wood - it's actually very enjoyable once you attain a certain degree of proficiency (I won't say when you "perfect it" as you'll never actually attain that status).
<O:p</O:p
Staining is one of the more difficult skills to 'master' because of the variety of different types of stain and the different results that can be obtained. It's human nature to modify or improve on just about everything and staining wood is no different – it's been done since man first used a branch as a staff.
Of course you are right Woodwould, I was just venting some frustration. It's probably a combination of my gross inexperience, type of wood and what I was doing that annoyed me. I'm sure I will continue using stains - my missus is the interior decorator at my place and if she wants a certain look then a certain look it is. Just as well because she's a whole lot better at that stuff than me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodwould
Cheers, oh, I love your work and enjoy reading your comments.:2tsup: