Attached pictures are of two coats of organoil danish oil followed by ubeaut traditional wax on rock maple. I went away for a week and it looks the finish has evaporated.
What happened and what should I do now:?
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Attached pictures are of two coats of organoil danish oil followed by ubeaut traditional wax on rock maple. I went away for a week and it looks the finish has evaporated.
What happened and what should I do now:?
What The????????????????? so is there any finish left on top or has all gone?
Cheers
Wendy
Hmm,
I'll preceed this with saying that others can give better advice but can you clarify what you did?
Personally I steer clear of Organoil but it does have a nice smell :U having said that I'm told you can get a good finish from the stuff, I just haven't tried.
- Firstly what grit did you sand to?
- How was the oil applied?
- Did you 'wet' sand?
- Did you flood with oil and then remove the excess after 15 mins or so?
- What was the time between coats?
- When did you add the beeswax?
- Did you light sand between coats?
- What temps were you dealing with?
My most likely thought is the saying that you should oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year for life.
Cheers.
My guess is you waxed it too soon and it broke down the wax. Organoil wants at least 2 weeks curing before waxing. :)
I'd agree with Bob, especialy if you have very dry timber, I woud do a minimum of three coats or go untill you have built up a good surface coat then leave it for a week to cure before waxing. If you want to clean rest of the wax off I would use more Organoil on a cloth. The Organoil will melt the remaining wax and clean it up.
When you say Organoil did you mean Organoil Danish Oil??
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrettC
This could be my problem:2tsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Honorary Bloke
Yes, Danish Oil. I cant remember the exact wording but the label is very stern on 2 coats only, I wonder why?.Quote:
Originally Posted by Claw Hama
The Jarrah is fine Wendy, Just the Rock Maple:?Quote:
Originally Posted by RufflyRustic
Wierd, but good to know, especially as I have some special rock maple on hand.
cheers
Wendy
keep putting coats on until is no longer appears thirsty. Leave a day in between coats, 2 if its below 10c. Its the figuring in the maple thats soaking up the oil.
thanks Matrix,
So is the number of coats is irrelevant?
what grit did you finish sand up to?
400Quote:
Originally Posted by martrix
Just for the record, IMHO I wouldn't use organoil if you paid me.
Anyway, their website recommends sanding up to a minimum of 600, and as they say, the finer the better.
Another give away as to why I dont like it is that it says it will never go off on the shelf, which also means it wont really cure on your furniture either. Probably one of the reasons as to why they recommend only 2 coats max because it will forever remain tacky if there is too much on there.
If I was you, I would cut your losses and get some Cabots Danish oil which is basically a thinned Poly. Stinks to hell but is a good simple finish which you can apply as many coats as you like. It does go off in the tin however if there is too much air in the tin, like when its half full. If you want to do a glossy finish, you can do the last coat with Gloss Wipe on Poly.
This finish is just Cabots Danish oil, probably about 4 coats and rubbed back with 3m Microfine sponge in between coats.
http://www.ottofrei.com/store/produc...p?imageid=6919
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...1&d=1218344587
I think your right Matrix about it not going off on your project either.
Could I apply the cabots product over the top?
Is there a place on the net where I can get the 3m sponge.
After I buy the cabots danish oil how do you know when the product has gone off:?
I think you can safely apply cabots over the top. I would give it a thorough wipe down with mineral turps and leave it for a few days. Then rub it back lightly with 240>320> and finish with 600.Quote:
Originally Posted by Howdya do that
Using the Cabots is easy. A quick blast with the compressed air to clear the dust and throw the tin of oil at it. Basically you can slop it on any way you like, as any excess is wiped off after 15-20 minutes. Wiping off the excess properly is what determines how neat your finish is, so you need lots of clean white rags and some disposable gloves to keep your hands clean.
If you leave it too long before you start wiping it off and its become very tacky, simply brush on a light coat of oil and it will instantly soften again, allowing you to wipe it off. Always finish your last wipe off strokes with the grain.
Always hang your rags up individually to dry. Better to be safe than sorry. It looks like a nice piece your working on with some nice figure in that maple.
As for the 3M Microfine sponges, the only place I could find them online, was an Ebay store in the states. Im sure you could find them at a decent auto paint supplies store if you do some sniffing around.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3M-26...4506.m20.l1116