Small bandsaws, 16" and under - Winner
Small Bandsaw review.
Moderators: I realise these reviews are normally locked, but since I don't have all the facts to hand I would like to request this one is kept open for others to add information. That isn't an invitation for debate however, see below. If mods feel this should be moved to the bandsaw forum that's ok. :)
Scope: This review covers bandsaws up to 14”. It covers a range of saws I inspected at the Brisbane showrooms of Hare and Forbes, Carbatec, Trade Tools Direct and Glenfords. I do not own any of these saws nor did I actually test them. The purpose of this review is to offer a starting point for potential buyers to reduce the legwork in selection, not to present a conclusion.
I realise some of you prefer larger saws but please restrain yourself making the case for those in this thread. There are other threads existing for that.
I am a metalworker by trade and mechanical engineer by profession. I claim no special knowledge of wood work but do know something of machinery and physics. I am happy to accept I'm wrong but I would prefer that discussion elsewhere in the forum. This is a review, and while it inevitably includes my opinions, follow-ups in this thread should be confined to corrections in matters of fact and added information.
Some preliminary notes:
Frame materials. All the saws have fabricated steel frames apart from the BP-14A class machines. Cast iron is less strong than steel size for size but this is compensated for in more massive structures. Cast iron is more stiff than steel and it is suggested this benefits the saws function. That debate should be for another thread. It has been suggested that the blade can be tensioned on some models such that the frame bends. That is obviously a catastrophic failure of the saw and while repair is possible it is probably uneconomic. Cast iron will break after it has bent very little so possibly the steel would at least offer some warning. My advice is to be mindful of blade tension.
Wheel materials. Suppliers suggest that one material might be superior to another. I don't accept that out of hand, I believe this requires closer examination. For example an iron wheel adds a flywheel effect but variations in density in an aluminium wheel will cause less vibration. I suggest it is th quality of the wheels more than just material that makes a better bandsaw.
Power. The point of a bandsaw is to drag the blade through the work from guide to table. The cut is affected by both the speed of the blade and the force with which it is progressed. This is a function of gearing as well as motor power. This is important as we will se with the BP-14A class machines.
Blade guides. Broadly of 3 types, rubbing block, euro style discs and ball bearings. There are quality and feature differences within the types.
Prices are those I saw on the day, obviously they float around a lot.
Starting with the smallest I looked over:
H&F BP-250 and similar.
Carbatec has essentially the same saw under part number BAS-250 for about$20 more. As far as I could tell these are identical. Prospective buyers should not write these off. They are obviously limited in capacity, but if your only work is small or medium size softwood they are beautifully made and feature rich. At $279 the H&F machine is an absolute bargain. Not a premier class machine, but as nice as anything in these reviews. Bearing blade guides, reasonable fences.
BP-14A class.
There are numerous variations on this machine. I'll discuss the H&F machine first then the others. These are “out there” amongst this collection being the most different. Cast iron frame, 4 speeds (154, 263, 418, 640). The H&F has the worst fence I saw on any machine, just a lump of cast iron and pinch bolt, too low and hard to set accurately. This actually suits me because I was always going to fit my own, once you've held an incra in your hands there is no going back. The miter slot has no shoulders, but I THINK it's a standard size one. The cast iron table is of average quality, the tilt mechanism crude, block blade guides. Everything about this machine is rough, but it all can be put right also. The H&F mounts the 3/4 horse motor on a simple vertical plate in the base. It drives a 4 pulley tree to an opposite off the lower wheel. The bas has absolutely hopeless plastic plates to cover in the motor, no doubt a nod to H&S. A larger motor could be fitted easily provided you can match speed (1440?) and shaft size (seemed like about 16 mm), however it may not be necessary. As mentioned above it's force at the blade that counts and since this machine can be geared down much lower than any of the others it has the potential to be amongst the most forceful at the lower speeds. This isn't ideal of course, but it makes motor replacement not automatically necessary. I really like the switch. It's near the knee and has a safety cover stop plate, so you just bang it to shut down leaving the hands free. The carbatec equivalent is in the same position but the display lacked this feature. The catalogue pic confirms this. No built in dust collection, you have to rig your own or buy add ons.
Jet make 2 saws in this class but both are single speed and I did not inspect them. Prices from Gary Pye: Open stand $575, closed stand $699.
Carbatec SW-1401.
This is going to sound like I have issues with carbatec. I don't, in fact I made a purchase while there today. Having said that they are rarely the cheapest source. I don't mind paying something more for the service and expertise, but this machine is a disaster. $559 as opposed to H&F's $419, no fence at all included, and for the life of me I couldn't find a difference apart from a carbatec sticker and rubbing blocks in a much sexier shade of black. Sorry $140 is too much of a difference.
Trade Tools Direct WBS 1403
$448, 1/2 horse mounted off the back of the machine like “normal” saws, open stand, 3 speed according to specs but couldn't see how that is accomplished. Different table, still iron but I believe smaller and ribbed! Whoever though that was a good idea on a band saw obviously hasn't used one. Better fence. It's possible this machine is better suited to someone's needs but I can't imagine who. YMMV. It's the only bandsaw they had in the shop and on the website so may be their only offering. They specialise in hand power tools so...
Timbecon Sherwood MJ-3435-W $499.
The writeup on this machine says bearing guides. If they are the deluxe set offered separately by carbatec and others for $89 that makes this the best value variation of the saw, but because most people don't live in Perth there is shipping to consider. Obviously I didn't inspect this machine as I didn't have time to do the 9000 km round trip today :) If someone KNOWS about the blade guides I'd love to hear about it. The switch is like the carbatec one.
H&F BP-300
Glenfords tools had 3 bandsaws on display, as well as a meat one. They had an equivalent machine to this one at H&F at $535 and I got a written quote at $489, a cool $110 cheap than H&F. For a moment I thought I'd found a bargain but closer inspection revealed the glenfords machine had euro style disc blade guides and the H&F machine bearings. Otherwise apart from a sexy black paint job the H&F machine is identical as far as I could see. 2 speeds 1hp, nice feature set. For my needs the Glenfords machine is the runner up to the H&F BP14A, at $70 more you lose 2 speeds and force at low speed should be slightly less, but the machine is much nicer all round, and the miter slots LOOK standard and have shoulders.
16” machines.
Carbatec CTJ-3501 and BAS-350
BAS-350 at $699 is $100 cheaper than the BP-355, smaller motor (1.5 vs 2 hp) and less nice fence, different wheel covers and IMO less nice switch. The CTJ-3501 has a 1 hp motor according to the catalogue (I forgot to look) and at BP-355 price, well, I think I'd buy the 355. Nice off switch though, I like a big emergency off switch. I'd prefer it by my knee though.
H&F BP-355 and BP-16A.
These two are about the same size and price at $799. I am sure I'm missing something here, but I don't understand why anyone would buy the 16A. The 355 is the point where you get a full feature set, all the nice stuff, and real quality, at least as far as I could tell, throughout the whole machine. It's a bit bigger than I wanted to go and I'm not convinced it's ok for steel cutting, but for a wood only bandsaw it really looks the business. The 16A has euro guides opposed to the 355's bearings, the 355 has tension window, nicer fence and is just nicer all over. The throat/height are slightly different so I suppose if you wanted the extra width...
So that's it. No conclusions. I wrote this because I've spent this last week trying to get my head around this collection of saws. There is a matrix of models and feature sets along with prices offered by each vendor. There are some standouts and some also-rans. If your looking for one of these machines this review won't finish your search, but hopefully it'll help you get your bearings at the start.
