U-Beaut Finisg for hardwood

At the Sydeny WWWS i spokes to CArrols about finishes. I am up to finishing a recycled hardwood table. I Bought Sanding Sealer, Ultrashine Cut and paste wax (No reference to EEEE and Traditional wax and a Swandown mop.

I have coateed the table with teh sanding sealer. No my question.
Do i sand with high grit (1200) paper then use the Ultrashine Cut and paste OR Just use teh Ultrashine? Do i use teh Swandown mop or just a cotton rag to buff off?

Once that is complete, then i use teh Traditional wax than buff with the mop (How many coats is normal - I assume til you get teh right lustre.

This is teh first time i've done this finish and want it right.
( I'v eused a ahcksaw blade and made a right mess defluffing teh mop

Dave

Dave,

from the site sponsors pages;

"EEE-Ultra Shine is not a finish for raw wood.

When EEE is used on a lathe over raw timber it produces a brilliant shine. Do not be fooled into leaving the wood like this. It is the timber shining from abrading and burnishing. There is no finish on the wood. Because of this the timber will dull in a short period of time from moisture in the air, steam, humidity, etc. This is because the timber is still raw.

Please use a finish over the top preferably one of the Shellawaxes, which are 100% compatible with the EEE. If using another finish over the EEE do a test piece first as the waxes in the EEE might stop the final finish from adhering to the timber."

But as posted elsewhere, EEE and Shellawaxes are more suited for use on a lathe than a large surface like a table. The swansdown mop if for polishing and you will just muck it up using it on EEE - the mop should be left for final finishing. For large flat surfaces you are better off with something like organ oil.

The Ultrashine can be used to cut and polish the top after it has been sanded. As indicated it is a finisher not a finish.

You will need a foam applicator on your random orbital sander to generate heat to melt the paste and also work the abrasive to a finer finish. Do a small area at a time so you can keep the heat in the same area. Work your way slowly over the top till completely finished. If done right you should be able to see your reflection on the top.

You then make sure the surface is clean of any excess paste etc then put the finish of your choice on.

You also do the same with the traditional wax applying by hand and using the swansdown mop to generate heat to melt the wax into the wood and give a soft finish.

G'day Dave - I take it you want a pure waxed finish. That being the case, you're on the right track. Although I'd probably be more inclined to give it a couple or 3 more coats of the Sanding Sealer to give it a tiny bit more of a base to build your wax on.

Sand very lightly after the first coat with 1200 grit just to take off any raised grain then if yo want rag on the extra coats with another real light go with 1200 again after the last coat.

Ultra Shine on a rag and rub it roughly over the surface to give a very basic coverage and buff immediately with the SD Mop until you have an even brilliant surface. Rub off the waxy haze with a clean soft cloth turning regularly to make sure all the wax is removed.

Leave it overnight if you like not really necessary but I prefer to give everything a chance to harden a bit before going on. With a clean soft cloth apply an even coat of the Trad Wax to the entire surface and when dry to tough few minutes buff with the mop. No need to clean it before using it after Ultra Shine. Buff off haze again as before (not with mop) and apply another coat of wax with the rest being the same. Leave all to harden for a couple of days.

The more Trad you apply the greater glow you will get to the finish. Done right it is an absolutely brilliant looking finish. However it must be looked after. Use place mats and coasters. Don't put hot coffee (tea) cups etc directly onto the surface. If it is damaged it will repair very easily with more Trad Wax. It is also a good idea to keep on hand a bottle of Polish Reviver for repairs and to cut back the build up of wax if it ever gets too much. That won't happen for many years unless you wax every few days.

Upkeep with Traditional Wax and clean soft cloth whenever needed.

Hope this is of some extra help.

Cheers - Neil :U

Shouldn't be a need for the foam applicator or RAS just the mop and clean rags. I have never used a foam applicator on a RAS so can't really comment. However I have been told they are brilliant, I really don't know, but have always been a bit sceptical of RAS as a polishing machine because they don't, in my mind, give the same direct polishing action as a mop. Don't get me wrong I love my Festool RAS and would be totally lost without it..... as a sander. :2tsup:

Still not convinced about it as a polisher though. I make the Rotary Sander and as a sander for turned work there is nothing better. Put a buffing pad onto it and it works, but not really well. The RAS is basically designed along the same lines, employing the same basic principals. Polishing needs a direct constant positive drive. eg Swansdown Mop, lambs wool buff in a drill felt or cotton buff on a polisher or grinder.

Just my thoughts. As I said, I haven't used one so it's basically speculation on my behalf.

Cheers - Neil :)

Neil I have used the RAS with the foam applicator for the EEE on a table top to take the heavy work out of doing the whole top by hand. It helps break down the paste faster and smooths out the abrasive like you are doing on the lathe by hand.

All other finishing is done by hand.

Thanks for the quick and comprehensive reply.
I thought i was on the right track for the finish. It was explained to me by a guy at the Carroll's stand at the show. Hence why i have all the samples. I will put another couple of coats of Sanding Sealer on to enhance the colour.

Is the EEE the sample as the Ultrashine cut and paste that I have?. On the Ubeaut web site all the tubs have EEEE written on them. Mine does not

Again Thanks

Dave

Quote:

---

Is the EEE the same as the Ultrashine cut and paste that I have?

---

Long answer:

EEE or Tripple E or E3 or 3E's or E Wax is a play on the word Tripoli (pronounced here in Oz as "Tripple E") this is the abrasive used in the product.

We now export to a number of non English speaking, foreign countries, including USA & Canada (sorry couldn't resist) to them EEE has no meaning and creates a whole heap of confusion "ergh ergh ergh Vot it means ergh ergh ergh" even here it has created confusion most call it e - e - e wax and a dozen different things including "that crap made by that prat", being nice when I say prat I dare say it's often much worse.

Quote:

---

Is the EEE the same as the Ultrashine cut and paste that I have?

---

Short answer:

Yes

Cheers - Neil :U

Well - After three coats of Sanding sealer with 1200 between coats. EEE finish then three coats of Ultrashine with at least a day if not more between. The top has a great shine and depth, The sides also. Just found it difficult getting into corners - so had to use elbow grease to get that done. Not as shiny as teh flat surfaces

My only hastle was i kept getting fine threads in the wax - so i would have to rewax to remove them then rebuff teh area - is this a fault in my technique?

Thanks for the advice. SWMO loves the finish

Dave

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave-Ben

Well - After three coats of Sanding sealer with 1200 between coats. EEE finish then three coats of Ultrashine with at least a day if not more between. The top has a great shine and depth, The sides also. Just found it difficult getting into corners - so had to use elbow grease to get that done. Not as shiny as teh flat surfaces

My only hastle was i kept getting fine threads in the wax - so i would have to rewax to remove them then rebuff teh area - is this a fault in my technique?

Thanks for the advice. SWMO loves the finish

Dave

---

Dave , where's the pics? :D

Cheers
Glenn

Once I put the doors on - possibly tonight - then i'll take some - so they will come
Dave

Here are a couple of photos as promised

Dave

:cool: {needed the shades for the gloss }

:2tsup::2tsup:

Looks good great job

Cheers
Glenn