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I had to heat up a cast iron vice with the oxy torch to loosen one of the countersunk screws holding the jaws to the cast iron body. I needed to replace the jaws on a 2nd hand vice I bought.
Can anyone recommend an easy way to completely get rid of all the carbon? deposits on the vice where the body has been heated?
Other than hitting it with the wire brush of course :rolleyes:
regards,
Jill
Paint.
Tools
Acid dip
I have some pool acid ( Hydrochloric acid). What sort of strength should I make this bath to remove the burn marks and any old paint?
regards,
Jill
Try a 10 to one mix ,10 parts water 1 part acid and adjust from there.You can always add more acid
You can make a mild acid from vinegar and salt , add salt to vinegar until no more salt dissolves.
Citric acid from the cooking section of the supermarket is another good way ,comes in a small container like pepper.
Which ever way you do it you will still have to scrub the muck off after wards.
When messing about with acid always wear safety glasses and rubber gloves.
Kev.
Thanks everyone. Here is an update:
The 10:1 acid mix was OK, but it did not lift the old paint or the carbon / grease on the old vice :(
So I hit it with degreasol and rags, then with paint stripper, and then with a high pressure water jet, and it was looking much better. Then I put it in the acid bath, and wow, all the bubbles started rising pretty quickly. Left it in for 10 minutes, then washed it down, and the whole vice stared to get this yellow stain all over it - some form of rust? It came off with a wire brush, so then got some metal primer on it pretty quick.
Took a few hours, this exercise, especially masking the running surfaces and jaws, but it looks good :)
regards to all,
Jill
Can anyone recommend the best lubrication of moving parts of this Engineers vice, which will be mounted on a pedestal outdoors.
I am referring to the screw, and the surfaces where the moving part slides over the body.
I have read about lanolin oil spray, and alos some waxes, but not sure about outdoors
regards,
Jill
I use never seez (that how its spelt IIRC) on my vice .Its a nickel based lubricant used in the mining industry .
I don't use it on my woodwork vice however because this stuff "walks" and gets every where if you are not careful..
A little goes along way .I also use it on the wheel studs on my ute ,stops that teeth grating squeal when you undo them.
Kev
Hi Jill - Next time (if there is a next time) it might be better to try using Penetrene on the screw. Leave it for an hour or so then put the screw driver into the screw, give it a couple of sharp thwacks with a hammer and the screws should come undone pretty easily.
Cheers - Neil
PS the metal primer may not stop the rust which you started up by dipping metal into acid which loves to eat metal. You may need killrust or one of the products that converts rust.
Woodlee, many thanks for this information about never seeze. I will chase it up.
Ubeaut, I tried Bolt Off, then Nutcracker, then tapping it without succcess. My boiler maker neighbour then hit it with the oxy, without success, breaking his punch trying to get it moving. I then took it to my car mechanic, and he used an impact chisel , air powered, and he said he had to use a fair bit of effort to get it out. No charge!( have been going there for 20 years or more)
Too bad about the rust. I used Killrust primer in the mistake belief that it would kill the rust, but after reading this forum, and also later reading the can, I should have hit it with some rust converter coating first :(
If I have halted the oxygen at the surface with heavy coat of primer and finishing coat, would that stop the rust from developing further?
Woodley, any suggestions where I might get never seeze? I have tried Bunnies, Mitre 10, and Repco without any luck.
regards,
Jill
Jill you can usually buy never seeze at bearing wholsalers and Woodlee I thought it was copper based hence the copper colour could be wrong narrrr not me.