Leaking shed in Perth

I know this won't be of much interest outside Perth, but I thought I would warn all West Aussies about a shed maker in Kewdale. I bought a 5x4 shed in June last year and their contractor erected it. Did a good job. First time it rained the water flowed in under the wall, basically making the shed useless. After them saying to cut holes in the U channel that the wall sheets fitted into (didn't work), they tried to say it was the cement floor that was letting the water in.

There has been a lot of to and fro, but I got an inspector from the Builders Registration Board who said the channel wasn't high enough on the inside to stop the water. The owner has refused to acknowledge that the channel is the problem, and is now saying that because the shed was installed by a contractor, it has nothing to do with them. We have a hearing before the Building Disputes Tribunal in 3 weeks to resolve the issue.

My advice is to give them a wide berth. They build crap sheds and will not stand by them and dodge any responsibility for fixing them. It would cost them maybe $100 for material and 2-3 hours work to lift the shed and replace the channel with 40x40 angle as suggested by the building inspector. I can't give more details here due to the fear of lawyers, but I do reply to emails.

I so feel your problem - not the legal aspects, but the simple matter of leaking. My original shed did so like crazy. I think it was because I made the slab bigger than the shed, and the water would flow onto the slab then feel like getting out of the rain.

The solution that I am applying to the current shed upgrade, is a builder's type material (no idea what it's called - tar paper of a sort with an aluminium core. I have it up the wall on the inside of the shed (about 1-2"), then it goes under the wall and folds down over the edge of the slab.

I wait with baited breath for when there is a heavy rain to test the solution, but I think the concept is sound.

Might be worth considering - the entire roll cost about $30, and will do an entire shed twice the size of yours. You'll need to (slightly) lift each wall to slip the 'paper' under, but that is achievable. Even if it is dynabolted down, just undo the bolt, lift, slip then do up the bolt again. Lifting the shed wall by 5mm or so can be done with a car jack or sim (if you can't lift it enough by hand).

In the end, despite who's to blame etc, what you really want is a shed that doesn't leak, by whatever means.

Your problem is in the lap of the Gods right now, so there it will remain until sorted. I decided to clad my verandah and then SWMBO decided to start to move some furniture into the area. A mate then decided to clad and line the area, all against my wishes until the bottom had been sealed. Now after the big drought we've just had, I fear the worst as rain does sneak under. I didn't want to unclad, flash it, then reclad, so I am painting the outside with a product called ORMONOID. This is thick stuff, and finishes like a rubbery skin. I have painted about one inch high on the cladding, then over the protruding cement slab to form a lip over the edge as a spillway. :cool:

Fingers crossed, and where's the rain???

Hadn't heard of that before, but will keep an eye out for it - sounds interesting!

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Originally Posted by Stuart

I so feel your problem - not the legal aspects, but the simple matter of leaking. My original shed did so like crazy. I think it was because I made the slab bigger than the shed, and the water would flow onto the slab then feel like getting out of the rain.

The solution that I am applying to the current shed upgrade, is a builder's type material (no idea what it's called - tar paper of a sort with an aluminium core. I have it up the wall on the inside of the shed (about 1-2"), then it goes under the wall and folds down over the edge of the slab.

I wait with baited breath for when there is a heavy rain to test the solution, but I think the concept is sound.

Might be worth considering - the entire roll cost about $30, and will do an entire shed twice the size of yours. You'll need to (slightly) lift each wall to slip the 'paper' under, but that is achievable. Even if it is dynabolted down, just undo the bolt, lift, slip then do up the bolt again. Lifting the shed wall by 5mm or so can be done with a car jack or sim (if you can't lift it enough by hand).

In the end, despite who's to blame etc, what you really want is a shed that doesn't leak, by whatever means.

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You guys have got the right idea, but a bit concerned about the "flashing" solution. Have a look at the attached drawing using a custom flashing (can be colourbond or zincalume) If it is one of those small sheds where there is no frame and it sits in a channel, lift it and put this flashing underneath and pop rivet it to the wall.

I am doing something similar with my shed but for different reasons...mine doesn't leak but the large gaps and up the ribs is a super highway for rats, snakes and the grass to grow up in! I have just had some metal bent up to to seal the bottom with a foot mold. I had to put a wooden plate on the inside to meet the cladding but as I am lining the shed I just made it part of the whole process.

Hope this helps!:B:B:B

Chipman

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chipman

You guys have got the right idea, but a bit concerned about the "flashing" solution. Have a look at the attached drawing using a custom flashing (can be colourbond or zincalume) If it is one of those small sheds where there is no frame and it sits in a channel, lift it and put this flashing underneath and pop rivet it to the wall.

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Hi, The shed "Leaky shed in Perth" is one of the cheapies with no studs or noggins. The bottom of the steel wall sheets fits into a U shaped channel which is where the water comes in by flowing under the bottom edge of the sheet and into the inside. I am going to fit 40 x 40 angle from the inside - do you think I should leave the channel or remove it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stuart

The solution that I am applying to the current shed upgrade, is a builder's type material (no idea what it's called - tar paper of a sort with an aluminium core.
I have it up the wall on the inside of the shed (about 1-2"), then it goes under the wall and folds down over the edge of the slab.

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G'day Stuart,
For this and others using similar.
Watch for grass growing up and under, then INTO your shed:oo:

Best to keep the grass well cut and sometimes poisoned.
This works for me:2tsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beer is good

Hi, The shed "Leaky shed in Perth" is one of the cheapies with no studs or noggins. The bottom of the steel wall sheets fits into a U shaped channel which is where the water comes in by flowing under the bottom edge of the sheet and into the inside. I am going to fit 40 x 40 angle from the inside - do you think I should leave the channel or remove it?

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I think you will have to leave the channel as it is part of the structure of the shed and part of how the shed is held to your slab. Just one question, If you are using angle, what will happen to the water on the outside, Could it come back underneath by capillary action? Hence the flashing turn down on the drawing I gave you. Don't forget your neutral cure silicon between slab and metal!

I guess another alternative would be to use a treated pine bottom plate if you wanted to do away with the channel altogether but more expense and mucking around.... See what others think!

Regards,

Chipman

I have installed a number of these for friends and always pouring the slab first and just setting a shallow rebate (20-30 mm) around the perimeter so the floor sits just above the rail. means you lose that in the height, but in a garden shed that is not usually a worry.

I have always used flashing too - just plastic damp-course up behind the panels and down over the slab. Deteriorates in UV exposure, but lasts around 8-10 years by which time the shed is needing to be renovated, is in the wrong spot or the owner has sold and it is someone else's problem. :U More solid flashing will last longer of course.

A couple I installed on timber TP platforms in difficult sites, but again set the edges below the flooring level, flashed and used sealant.

Getting caught between and retailer and the installer is bad news though.