Im just about to lay the colorbond roof for my pegola - 11mx6m, 22.5 degree gable. Do you lay and screw each sheet as you go OR lay a few sheets then screw down OR lay all of one side then screw all down from one end to the other?
Cheers, Nic.
Printable View
Im just about to lay the colorbond roof for my pegola - 11mx6m, 22.5 degree gable. Do you lay and screw each sheet as you go OR lay a few sheets then screw down OR lay all of one side then screw all down from one end to the other?
Cheers, Nic.
Mark the purlins with a pencil 1 flute back so you can see it when you lay the next sheet then screw fix the join. Half way check the sheets for parallel to the end and again as you get closer the end.
By only fixing the joins first it make it possible to adjust/twist the sheets as you progress
put 1 screw in each sheet (not in each join or each end) so u can adjust the angle of all the sheets this will help you fix a sawtooth or trailing edge if it isnt quite square. im not saying you did a bad job but its bloudy hard to get toe top of a 4 post shed sqwuare as any swist or bow in any of the timbers can throw it out and it only needs to be out by 1" to make the iron look ????.
I am in the final stages of reroofing my house (first time) 20 deg pitch roof, I was unimpressed with the installation of my zinc roof (saw edge) when I bought the house. I am no expert in this area but I have researched, read and asked questions in this area.
It pays to measure out and make a sketch to see if you are starting from a square pergola.
1. Install the guttering first.
2. Have the overlap (join) facing away from the prevelant weather.
3. Obiously no insulation so dont put that in
4. calculate no os sheets to be used cover 762mm
5. work back from one end to where you want to start if pergola has hips and start at a point in the ridge and use pythagoras to form a right angle triangle (shouldnt need to if you done this when the pergola was built) always dood to do again for peace of mind. (measure twice cut once)
5. use a string line from ridge to gutter to form an imaginary line of this triangle.
6. Have c/bond into the gutter by 50mm.
7. use your tape measure on either side to get the first sheet right and have a helper or 2.
8. I used a stringline in the gutter to work to.
9. If you get this right then it is a matter of making sure the overlap sits nicely then you wont get the saw effect, unless the pergola wasnt built straight to start with.
10. invest in a tek screw gun or a decent drill that can set the screws in at the right tension to avoid failure or premature life expectancy of the rubber washer and not squash the corro or allow to leak.
Why do you recomend to install the gutter first?
About to replace my roof also with Colourbond, however just wondering about the scaffolding rules etc, instead of scaffold, can I use a harness for safety.
I can't see how you would attached scaffold when doing a tin roof and I figure a harness is still being safe, but a lot cheaper. How do the roofing mobs do it...standard single storey house. Melbourne.
I'm not sure what the "rules" are, but I have seen building sites were they use a railing type arrangement around the roof.
When I did the roof on the shed I used a harness. The downside to a harness it that it can restrict movement. On the plus side you can use it to "stabilise" yourself ... oh and it could save you from breaking your neck (that's a plus).
I think I have a good idea about the procedure for laying the roof sheets, however I haven't seen any description anywhere in these forums (I did a search) about the procedure for installing the ridge or hip capping pieces, and the valley pieces. In particular, how do you attach them, and what about the point where for example a ridge meets two hips or where a ridge meets a valley?
This isnt a bad video for roof installation:
http://www.bluescopesteel.com.au/ind...FF2EBA2ADB9226
thanks for the link to the video, it's actually really good! (Some instructional videos are not very helpful)