rules for mixing finishes?

I've read around online quite alot about finishes, but, I'm quite new to the subject.

What exactly are the rules for mixing finishes? I'm just curious if you can mix oil based, water based, lacquer, and other types of finishes.
I'm looking to use some kind of wood dye, but under a clear gloss lacquer finish. I'll probably be using the Watco in the spray cans.

A quick google search finds me this as an example of what I want to do.. would a water based black dye under lacquer work? If not, what else would to get a similar look to this? The kind of wood that I'll be using is hard ash.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...is/cerese2.jpg

Peg,

That does not look like a dye stain, dyes are transparent, it looks like it might be a black opaque lacquer, or it could be a black pigmented stain, that was clear coated.

A second look shows a "white paste wood filler" was used to bring out the open grains, now were talking about a different finish. You might try making up some samples.

Try a black pigmented stain or black lacquer, then apply sevaral clear coats to seal in the black, and then apply a "white paste wood filler," follow instructions on how to apply and remove excess filler by scraping and then sand off the excess, that is the reason why you need some extra clear coats on top of the black, so you don't get down to the black and ending up sanding off some of the black color.

Then apply more clear top coats, you may need to end up sanding and polished up the final lacquer. Speaking of lacquer, you will need to use a "water clear lacque"r that will not amber like nitrocellulose will do..

Acrylic lacquer, CAB lacquer, Conversion Varnish are all water clear coatings, the Water base Lacquers are also water clear coatings.

Good Luck

MacS

Another thought regarding the wood, its either an exotic, or it was done with a carving or turning tool, or both.

It is sometimes called "liming", here is a photo that was done on Oak, showing a black and white pickle. A quick explanation, the base color is applied, then a few coats of clear to seal off the base color, either a glaze or a paste wood filler is applied, and allowed to dry, then the glaze or filler is removed by sanding allowing the contrasting color to remain in the open grains. Once this is dried, then water clear topcoats are applied.

Good Luck

Thanks MacS! I will follow your advice for sure and try that.

Any recommendations on the amount of coats I should use?

The white paste wood filler, would that end up being transparent so that the black/natural grain is still visible, but with the grain filled?

Peg.

Thank you.

Any recommendations on the amount of coats I should use?

That will depend on the depth of the open grains, and how well you fill them with the paste wood filler.

The white paste wood filler, would that end up being transparent so that the black/natural grain is still visible, but with the grain filled?

The white paste wood filler is opaque, so, when it dries the grains with be filled white. The reason for using the water white lacquer, is because it is crystal clear, whereas the clear lacquers are amber in color which will yellow the white paste wood filler.

At least 3 coats of either sealer or your water white lacquer to protect the black base coat, then apply the paste wood filler, allow to dry and harden, then scrape off the excess filler, and then sand the filler level to the surface. Clean the surface, and then start your water clear coatings. Do not sand after the first coat, wait until the second or third coat so you don't sand into the paste wood filler. You will need to decide for yourself how many coats you will need as this will depend on the sanding, rubbing, and polishing of your final finish.

Good Luck