Weatherboard Questions

Hello All,

This is my first post on this forum. What a great find, answered many questions that I have had over the years!

After much searching, I can't find any definiate answers to my questions, however Im sure they have been asked before so I am sorry if its been asked last week.

I am planning on re-weatherboarding my house and want to know what kind of nail gun to use to put them on. They are the standard bullnose profile that is very common on 50's Melbourne houses.

I thought a T-Nailer would be the gun for the job, going through the bottom on the board but just missing the top of the board below so as to allow movement.

However, I was advised you could "Secret Nail" the boards with a coil nailer using flat head ring shank nails through the top of board and then covering the nails with the next board. This sounds great as I would not have to fill any nail holes, however, it just doesn't sound like the board will be fixed with any great strength at the bottom, almost like you could just lift it and snap it off.

The house has a hardwood frame, probably 50 years old, I guess galvanised nails are the go. The coil nails look like the gal coating is applied better than the T nails and the nails are not joined on a strip.

Also, what should I seal the ends of the boards with after cutting? And what kind of sealant that doesn't crack much on the corners of the house (Something silicon based rather than acrylic gap filler perhaps?)

And finally, do I need to get somekind of permit to do this kind of thing? I could call the council, but they always make me feel like an idiot.

regards,

Adam.

Galvanised 50mm bullet head nails are the go. Hand nailing is preferred, or you may, and I would say will end up with cracked boards. Predrilling when on the end section of a board is important to prevent splitting also. I found the fitting and nailing of weatherboards by hand to be very therapeutic and enjoyable.

I sealed my boards with good quality sealer/primer (acrylic). I used acrylic gap filler on the corners, and I final finished with acrylic gloss.

My experience doing a couple of houses, your choice at the end of the day.

No permit required where I live.

I think nailing through the thin edge is reserved for the fibre cement version of the boards. I would think that they would be prone to warping if you only attached them at the top??

If you must use a gun then I think T nailer is te go, however the consensus seems to be that hand driven is better. The nails are relatively small so it isn't too hard even into old HW. Maybe spend the nail gun budget on a nice Estwing hammer and an MP3 player!! Good luck.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by zoltrix

...I was advised you could "Secret Nail" the boards with a coil nailer using flat head ring shank nails through the top of board and then covering the nails with the next board.

---

This is exactly the way it should be done....except I would honestly hand nail them.

I have a Hitachi air powered frame nailer, use Paslode nails and much of my house has ancient hardwood frame.....and, at times, its like trying to attach timber to an anvil....however, hand nailing works.

In the end, I have compromised. I use the nailer set on a lowish pressure which partially drives the nail and positions the board...then I drive it home with the hammer. Fiddly yes but no bent nails, no drama.

You really only nail the boards at the top?? How far from the edge and how much overlap? I was going off the Allan Stains book that says to nail at the bottom of the board clearing the top of the board that it overlaps.

Those old school timber weather boards you do.....coupla inches down from memory, then the next board just overlaps the nail.

That said....the new breed of fly weight timber boards you get these days...not so sure about them.....

Yeah, Yeah ... I think that's probably the difference.

I have never seen ordinary weatherboards secret nailed as you describe.

If you do it that way you WILL have problems.
I really don't feel like typing out a lot of words to explain why it won't work, so one of the other builders can explain it to you.

I nail weatherboards with Gal T nails, works quite well.

Hand nailing with 50mm gal is my preference but "t" head gal nails work ok [with the "t" vertical]

Only one nail per stud/board connection, the board must be free to expand and contract. 1 nail through the lower, thicker part of the board about 25mm up from the bottom. The top of the board is held in place by the overlap of the board above it. 50mm gal bullet head nail by hand or 50mm gal coil nails. I don't like T nails as they're not available in gal and clipped head nails are too heavy a gauge and will split the board (also they are horrendously expensive in gal).


Mick

I use F head Gal nails in my T nailer

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by echnidna

I use F head Gal nails in my T nailer

---

Bob,
are these gal or zinc, I was under the impression you couldn't get hot dip gal in T-nails.

Mick

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by echnidna

I have never seen ordinary weatherboards secret nailed as you describe.

---

A while back I lived in a 20's farmhouse, a 2BR w/board dog-box, that was nailed that way. However, the builder used vertical battens not only at the outside corners, but above and below some windows and on the outside junctions of internal walls. I think the longest continuous run of w/board would only have been around 2 yards... maybe 3. (Working from memory here.) I guess the builder had problems finding longer lengths. :roll:

Still, there were no visible joints that weren't covered by battens, the place had been fairly well maintained and it showed no signs of past or future problems.

It also made for an unusual visual effect, almost Tudoresque. :U (Don't know that I'll ever do the same, though...)

Mick, I assume they're zinc labelled gal. Made by Paslode

I thought the nail went through lower down - about 25mm above the top of the board underneath. never heard of secret nailing at the top - sounds like the boards just hang there. oh well live and learn !! Are these hardwood timber boards?

To seal the end grain I would wipe some Sikaflex or similiar polyurethane over the cuts.