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Has anyone tried to remove paint from wood with a High Pressure Water Cleaner, and if so was is successful, and what pressure was it?
Reason I ask is that a long time ago when I had a car detailing business I had a 2,000PSI machine fitted with a 4 lpm ceramic fan tip, and if I got careless with it, paint would start to disappear. :C
If I could get that to happen on wood....:2tsup:
I'm not bothered by water penetration into the wood because I can wait for it to dry out.
Cheers,
Phill.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrott
Yeah, it sounds great, but how will you pound all that raised grain back down into the wood? And the water that got behind the wood and into the insulation, making it nice and mouldy.
I think that's a non-starter. :( Pity, really, as it would be otherwise a loverly idea. :)
The pressure can also erode the timber itself away
It doesn't usually work, I used high pressure water blasters for cleaning roofs to prepare them for painting and I worked on around 3000psi and although it cleans the dirt and grime off the tiles, it wont remover the paint unless it is flaky. Same with timber, if the paint is flaking greatly then it will remove the loose flake to a certain point but where the paint is adhering hard and fast, it wont remove it completely. Another thing to remember is its a messy job and a lot of cleaning up afterwards.If the water runs into your storm water drains they you can be in a lot of trouble. I used to block the drains and use a bilge pump to pump the dirty water back onto the garden or lawns of the property. Remember you are pumping out something like 13 to 18 litres of water a minute with this equipment.
Also remember the water restrictions if you are in an area where they apply, only contractors are allowed to use high pressure water blasters in preparation for painting.
Just a couple of Warnings. If you choose to go down that path, (I certainly wouldn't) you must also realize that high pressure water blasting can cause a lot of damage to property if not used properly. Also very dangerous to the user if not careful. With the kind of pressure you need to do this kind of work,(probably about 2000psi minimum) if you put your hand in front of the nozzle accidently it would shred your hand to pieces. So please be careful.
Honorary Bloke, you have got me interested now....what insulation and "behind the wood"??Quote:
Originally Posted by Honorary Bloke
I am wanting to get paint off a piece of wood, which I assume will get pretty wet, but....
I am a bit confused here so please explain.
After it dries I will sand it lightly, and hopefully that will do.
Cheers,
Phill.
I should have mentioned, 50-plus yrs. old jarrah (ie almost rock) and a bit of erosion would be less than 20 grit sandpaper erosion which is the other option (wouldn't it)Quote:
Originally Posted by echnidna
Cheers,
Phill.
We use Rainwater here, all we can catch.:2tsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by munruben
Cheers,
Phill.
Quote:
Originally Posted by munruben
As stated in the original post, I owned one previously for detailing work.
Used it 6 days a week for 4 years and still got all my skin :2tsup:
Appreciate the concern though.:2tsup: They are not to be played with.:no:
Cheers,
Phill.
Ahhh . . . the penny drops. :- Nine times from ten when people ask this they are planning to knock the paint off their house siding. Apparently you are not, so forget that part. It will raise the grain and as Bob said may damage some wood fibres if you come too close, but I'd try it on a piece and see if I could live with the result.Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrott
Personally, I prefer stripping or sanding away the old finish, but that's just me.
[You may have to sand it more than lightly, however.]