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I've bought an oven for the kitchen renovation, and the paperwork with it says that it uses a 10amp plug (it's got a normal looking plug on it already). Could I plug it into a normal powerpoint and use it?
I've got the new cabinet in for the oven on the other side of the kitchen and there's an existing powerpoint in reach, and it'd be nice to oven cook dinner for once :)
You could, but if it draws anything close to the 10 amps then using anything else on that circuit might blow the protection (fuse wire or circuit breaker).
A stove should usually be on its own circuit as it will likely draw the full load (ie: 2400W = 10amps @ 240 volts) and on a 15amp powre circuit leave little available load. In a kitchen you would be expecting to use other high wattage appliances.
Most kitchens would have two or three GPO circuits nowadays as we all tend to have main items such as a toaster (1500-200W) a kettle (1500-2200W) and a microwave oven (800-1200W) any two of which on a single power circuit is at capacity. Add in electric frying pans, pizza makers, sandwich makers, mixers, blenders etc and the possible load adds up.
Of course mostly they are not in concurrent use, but it is easy to have all of the three main ones going at once.
So - for short term use this might be OK, but not for the permanent fixing.
Excellent, thank you.
So I will need to sparky to run a cable for the oven that is on its own circuit, but that circuit can be done in 10amp? If it was done in 15amp this wouldn't effect/damage the oven, it would just mean the circuit had more "headroom" above what the oven needed?
I'd have a 15 amp circuit put in to be on the safe side. My oven has a 15 amp plug and I'd guess that to be more common than 10, so you'd be covering yourself for future upgrades. A 15amp circuit shouldn't cost you any more than 10amp.
Our old St George range is on its own -35- amp circuit, the only things I've seen that will go into a 10amp socket are the dinky 'pie warmer' type ovens (got one, use it all the time).
When I had the power points rewired, the sparkies claimed to have put in 20amp rated wiring to all the house's GPO's, and I had the kitchen fitted with twin outlets. Bigger wiring is better than 'just good enough' - less resistance/power loss, room for future load etc.
The sparky will tell you what you need - for a stove it would be minimum 15A, but more likely higher rated (for a full blown upright all electric stove 35amp is common).Quote:
Originally Posted by azeroth
With circuit breakers and not fuses the safety factor is very good in any case and there is less chance of an incorrectly rated fuse being used (I have seen heavy gauge copper wire used in an older style fuse box - probably equivalent to 100amps or so - very dangerous).
So having a higher rated circuit is fine when it is dedicated as this one would be. And the sparky will ensure that the whole circuit is correctly rated ie: not simply the safety break point.
I highly suspect that the oven can be plugged into a normal 10 Amp outlet but I also suspect that it will draw close to 10 Amps. Could you tell us the power rating (Wattage) of the oven?Quote:
Originally Posted by azeroth
Also, all power wiring in houses is 2.5mm squared, which is rated at 20 Amps. If you wish to have a 15 Amp outlet, it should be on a dedicated circuit with its own 20 Amp circuit breaker.
Probably used to be, but not anymore, the new wiring looks like figure 8 speaker wire. :oo:Quote:
Originally Posted by elkangorito
It only looks like figure 8. It is just they have reduced the thickness of the exterior thermoplastic outer sheath. Makes it a bit more flexible and easier to use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brickie
Actually it depends on how the cable is runQuote:
Originally Posted by elkangorito
These days with houses built on a slab the power cabling is though the ceiling space that has thermal insulation that de-rates the cable.
In other words if any part of the cable has thermal installation around it (in the ceiling or the wall) 2.5mm square is only rated at 18amps so putting a 20amp breaker in it is wrong.
I know some sparkies still do it but it shouldn't be done at all
I actually wont put any bigger that a 16amp CB on 2.5 no matter how is run
It's this one http://www.blanco-australia.com/defa...mmercial/bso62Quote:
Originally Posted by elkangorito
Which is a wall oven, it's power requirements (according to the specs) is either 2.16Kw or 1.86Kw depending on which link on that page you read :o Would the seperate electric cooktop be run on its own circuit as well or off the same 15amp usually?
Electrical work doesn't look that hard, think I'll give it a shot myself :roll: yes that's a joke I've read enough of this forum to know when to defer to professionals! :U Thanks for clearing up some things before I call in the big guns.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nev25
Right again Nev but I was only "generally" speaking. The derating of cables can become a complicated issue.:)
So in short, tell your sparky you need a 15amp outlet for a wall oven and let him take care of the mumbo jumbo :wink:
And then when you need to run your 2hp saw or dusty you can just run a lead in and plug it in.Quote:
Originally Posted by silentC