Laying sheet flooring

Hi All,

Within the next few months I'll be embarking on installing my new floors.

For those that have not seen my other posts, I'll be laying 2400 x 1200 x 4mm ply sheets over the existing T & G pine floor (150mm) , and then laying Karri T & G (80 x 19) over that (I was assured that the 4mm would be sufficient, as long as the underlying floor is sound).

So, I have a few questions about laying the sheet flooring:

1. What would be the best direction to lay the sheets. I was recommended by one person to lay them at a 45 deg angle (as in A of the attached pic), but I think this is going to make the job far more difficult, and possibly use more material. I was intending to lay the sheets in a brickwork pattern, with the long edge running perpendicular to the joists (B). Is it an issue if the long edge of the sheets run in the same direction as the Karri T & G is going to be installed?
2. I will be removing the skirtings before installing the sheets, but what is the best way to cut away the door frames, so that I can slide the sheets and new T & G flooring under them? I will need to cut away about 23- 24mm, what is/are the best tool(s) to use for this?
3. Would a framing nail gun be the most suitable tool for nailing down the sheets?

Finally, I'm also considering installing an accoustic underlay between the old pine floor and the sheet floor on the 1st floor. Any comments on whether this is worthwhile or not?

Thanks in advance,

Jonty

you would be better using a coil gun or a 6mm crown staple gun these are recomended for other underlay systems. I have never heard of using 4mm ply before but I guess it would work all right. I would be laying the underlay at right angles to the pine boards and stagger the joints.

about cutting your door frames a biscuit jointer works great or almost as well a 4 inch grinder with a multi cutting blade as a last resort you could always try a handsaw

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Originally Posted by Canetoad

you would be better using a coil gun or a 6mm crown staple gun these are recomended for other underlay systems. I have never heard of using 4mm ply before but I guess it would work all right. I would be laying the underlay at right angles to the pine boards and stagger the joints.

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Thanks, so that's 1 vote for "C" in my drawing.

Would I be better off using 9mm ply as an underlay? I am trying to keep the floor level down, as it's already going to present a problem marrying up with the floors in adjoining rooms.

4mm should be fine. I have always just used masonite or fc underlay I don't know why I just have

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Canetoad

you would be better using a coil gun or a 6mm crown staple gun these are recomended for other underlay systems

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I was planning to nail the sheets through the pine flooring (22 or 25mm boards) into the joists, so I guess I'll be using at least 50mm anchors - is the coil gun or crown staple gun still recommended for this?

Haven't heard of the staple gun before, any idea where I can research it a bit more?

Thanks :D

Usually with underlay you only nail into the floor boards but nail it a 6" centres in both directions lots of fixings. I think that the james hardie product documentation recommends a particular staple for f.c. underlay.

http://www.australianhardboards.com....l/underlay.htm
There is a brocure connected to this site regarding fixing

Yep - I'd go for C as well - but this is based on 5 minutes of knowledge gained from a JH bochure regarding the laying of ceramic tile underlay.

I was looking at sheeting on the weekend as I also need to layover existing floor boards - just removed the slate - fun time NOT!

Jonty, why are you considering ply? I looked at this as an option but then wondered about waterproofing for kitchen area. Also, I wondered if there would be any warping of ply over time and cracking tiles and/or grout?

Ply would certainly be a cheaper option, so I am still researching underlay sheeting. Cost will be a factor.

Keep us posted about what you decide. Any other ideas appreciated.

cheers
DNL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Canetoad

http://www.australianhardboards.com....l/underlay.htm
There is a brocure connected to this site regarding fixing

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Thanks for all the advice, much appreciated!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DNL

Jonty, why are you considering ply? I looked at this as an option but then wondered about waterproofing for kitchen area. Also, I wondered if there would be any warping of ply over time and cracking tiles and/or grout?

Ply would certainly be a cheaper option, so I am still researching underlay sheeting. Cost will be a factor.

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Ply is what was recommended to me by the flooring mob, where I have purchased my Karri T & G flooring. It is not going to be installed in any wet areas, just dining room, living room and passage.

I will eventually be tiling my kitchen area, which currently has lino over 4mm masonite. I plan to lay fibre cement sheeting over the masonite and tile over that. I'm not sure whther I will waterproof or not...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Canetoad

about cutting your door frames a biscuit jointer works great or almost as well a 4 inch grinder with a multi cutting blade as a last resort you could always try a handsaw

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Canetoad,

For a similar job, but trying not to remove skirting boards - what would suggest to trim the skirtings evenly (about 10-12mm)?

I was thinking a grinder but not sure if I will be that steady for good result. Is there a type of cutting tool for tight spots that has a guide?

Cheers
Paul

keep my day job if you take the fence off most biscuit jointers and slide it along the floor you should find it pretty close to 10 or 12 mm or pack it up on a piece of ply the right thickness. The beauty of the biscuit jointeris that it follows the floor and feel alot safer than a 4" angle Grinder sans guard. I have a makita biscuit jointer which is great. I hope you understand what i mean if not pm me