Easy finish for Dummies

Hi Guys,

I have almost finished my first ever wood working project and need a little advice of how to finish it. I have looked over the site and seen a variety of different ways, but I am not sure what applies to me best.

I don't have a compressor or spraying equipment, so anything that requires spraying is out.

All I want is a finish to protect the desk. I like the raw colour of the Myrtle and Jarrah, so anything that is clear would be good. Something that is quick and easy to put on, then I can get the desk inside and get my missus off my back.

Thanks,

Nax

My favourite finish at the moment is:

Sand to 600 grit wet and dry
One coat UBeaut sanding sealer.
Wait 24 hours, sand to 600 0r 1200 grit wet and dry
Several coats or shellac either padded on or with a brush
Wait 24 hours, sand with 1200 grit wet and dry using water. Be careful not to rub through.
Burnish with 000 or 0000 steel wool
Apply 2 or 3 coats of UBeaut Traditional Wax, buffing in between

Gives a nice silky smooth finish that can be repaired. However the shellac will give an orangey cast to the timber.

I've also found Tung Oil or Danish Oil very easy to use.

Nice desk Nax,

Are you going to stain it coz the type of stain (water or oil based) wiull dictate which type of finish you use - go for oil based finish over water based stain or the other way around so that the stain doesn't disolve into the final finish.

For something really easy and I (and others have had good results from) what about a wipe on poly - like Minwax sold by Bunnings - just wipe on with a rag and repeat four or five times.
Others have had success with a Wattyl scandinavian oil and wet sanding up through the grits (up to 1200 or so).

But it all depends on what type of look you want i.e 'plasticy', glossy or matt.

Ubeat make a hard shellac that's good for table tops.
http://www.ubeaut.com.au/ubhome.htm

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Originally Posted by silentC

My favourite finish at the moment is:

Sand to 600 grit wet and dry
One coat UBeaut sanding sealer.
Wait 24 hours, sand to 600 0r 1200 grit wet and dry
Several coats or shellac either padded on or with a brush
Wait 24 hours, sand with 1200 grit wet and dry using water. Be careful not to rub through.
Burnish with 000 or 0000 steel wool
Apply 2 or 3 coats of UBeaut Traditional Wax, buffing in between

Gives a nice silky smooth finish that can be repaired. However the shellac will give an orangey cast to the timber.

I've also found Tung Oil or Danish Oil very easy to use.

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Gidday,

firstly - nice desk.

You will find that a lot of finishes will have a slight tint to them - particularly a little "orangey" as Silent mentioned.

Someone will no doubt correct me if I'm wrong, but you can probably use White Shellac instead of ordinary shellac, and that will give you a clear finish (see our hosts web page for info). Otherwise I think the SilentC treatment outlined above is pretty good and will provide a nice finish.

Using that method, but subbing in White Shellac should give you a finish that will add some depth and lustre, but will leave the colour of the wood intact - it will probably just look the same as it would when it is wet.

Only problem is that I wouldn't call that particular method "quick and easy" - it'll take a little while if you want to do it properly. It's worth it though, IMHO.

You might be able to just get away with a coat/2 of sanding sealer which has been sanded along the grain with a high grit wet&dry paper, followed by a couple of coats of buffed traditional wax. However it probably won't be as durable or nice looking as the full shebang.

Hope that helps.

sCORCH

I should point out that I hate finishing and anything that doesn't give good results quickly is dropped by yours truly like a hot potato :)

My last job I finished as I went, because it's a bit of a pain getting into corners and so on with this method. I finished the parts up to the burnishing stage before assembly and then applied the wax to the completed cabinet.

The thing I like is that you don't have to be overly fussy with the shellac, just get a good cover, and then you can rub it out with the wet and dry. It takes 3 days but only because you have to wait for it to dry. I kept the shellac pad in a chinese takeaway container. My finishing room is right next to my office, so every 15 minutes or so, I'd just walk in and give the parts another wipe over.

I've also used the two coats of sanding sealer and three coats of wax. It comes up beautifully, but not sure how durable it would be for a desk top. The hard shellac would be good for that I reckon, although I've not used it myself.

Danish Oil - put on the first coat really really wet and leave for 10-15 then wipe it off. The next day do a 2nd coat and sand it while wet with 360-400 grit wet and dry paper - wipe off and then continue to rub it down with clean rags until it stops coming out of the timber.

I've never used a sanding sealer. I guess one day I might give it a try but so far I haven't bothered.

Nice desk by the way :2tsup:

Steph

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I guess one day I might give it a try but so far I haven't bothered.

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Once you've tried it, you'll never go back.

Very nice desk!

All the options listed here are superb ones and will work for you on the desk.

I think Minimax Wipe on Poly is the easiest of the lot in my very humble opinion, but it will give a yellow tinge to the finish.

White Shellac - I think this should be the winner. UBeaut's White shellac is great, it keeps the natural colour and if thinned appropriated, is very easy to put on exactly as SilentC said. I've also found white shellac tends not to line as easily as Hard shellac, i.e. I can get a line of it down and the wet edge is still wet enough to meld into the next line laid down.

Cheers
Wendy

I agree with going with the clear shellac if you do not want an amber cast in your finish.

If your going to use the clear shellac you won't need the sanding sealer, go all the way with just the clear shellac.

Be sure that you sand back each coat of shellac, or the final coating will remain soft.

Make up a start to finish sample, so you see what your getting before you start working on your project.

Good Luck