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I have just finished making 2 kitchen benchtops from laminated solid pine and was wondering what would be the best finishing technique and product to achive the highest gloss possible without spraying . One benchtop will contain the sink so water resistance is needed . I have not yet stained the timber either so if you can recomend a decent stain as well it would be appreciated . I was considering using cabots floor products thinking they would be harder wearing ??
Wattyl Estapol 7008.
here is a pic of one side
Nice top.
The Estapol 7008 is very durable for a kitchen bench. I did a pine table with it 10 years ago, and it is only now that it has been outside getting abused that it is looking quite sad.
From memory, pine tends to soak it up a bit, so be prepared to give it a few coats. I gave mine quite a few, but I was chasing a VERY good finish. Final coat was thinned quite a lot, but looked as good as sprayed.
7008 is fussy on which stain you use with it, but if you read the can it tells you which to use.
Ian
I cannot offer any advice re tops, I would be interested in the outcome as I plan a similiar venture here. What sizes of pine did you laminate. Good Luck, PS looks nice from the pic. :)
Kind Regards
Mike
q9-I have had a bit of experience with various stains and varnishes , though this time i would like to achive a really flat finish that will reflect like a mirror . That is why i have resorted to the internet in search of knowledge i lack . Do you have to buff the 7008 to finish it or does it shine by itself ?? Also looking at the picture what would do you think the doors are ( tasmainian oak ?? redwood ??)could you recomend a suitable stain that would give a nice contrast ...
Mickyg- the pine used was bought from bunningings it comes in 3m lengths by 650mm by 33 mm. I just added a decorative moulding which they also stocked.
Preparation is everything. If you want a good finish without spraying, then be prepared to do it a few times. From memory my table got 9 coats.
What I didn't do so well was clean up all the sanding residue - that left an otherwise good finish with a few specks of crap in it.
After the second coat I rubbed back with 400 wet and dry (and use water!) in an orbital sander, and again after the 4th. After the 5th I used 600. And 600 followed by 800 after the 8th coat.
I could have saved a bit of time by doing a better job in the beginning on the bare wood, and not using a less than perfect brush. Once a hair goes in, there isn't much choice but to wait for the next coat. Buy plenty of reducer to clean the brushes, too. Once it cures in a brush, throw it away.
You probably could rub down with 1200 and buff, but I didn't try it. The only comment I will make is that you need to be able to work more or less continuosly on it, so that you aren't waiting days between coats. 24 hours seems to be about right and will work better than a coat one weekend, another next weekend etc.
cheers for the help guys .
What stain did you use and should it be applied to the bare timber or mixed with the 7008 ??
I rarely use stain. In fact, I've only used stain once.
From what I have read, you will need to use a compatible stain separately from the 7008, applied directly to the timber.
You can't mix anything else with 7008, aside from reducer to thin it out.
Another alternative may be Haymes Single pack floor finish - a moisture cured finish, that doesnt need to be bought in two parts like 7008.
It can be mixed or used seperately with oil based stain - I have used with Cabots, Wattyl and of course Haymes oil based stains. I think it may also be able to be used with spirit stains. Plus it is "Tonka" tough, and provide a very high gloss.
What can i say, I am a Haymes convert!
If you use 7008 (And to a lesser extent the single pack) be prepared for one hell of a stink. Use a mask - as it is not good for you.