Is there a certain technique to applying estapol?
I'll be buggered if i can get it to go on with out getting those tiny air bubbles/pin holes in it.
Yes i stirred it correctly.
Yes i used a good brush.
Yes it was a clean enviroment.
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Is there a certain technique to applying estapol?
I'll be buggered if i can get it to go on with out getting those tiny air bubbles/pin holes in it.
Yes i stirred it correctly.
Yes i used a good brush.
Yes it was a clean enviroment.
Paul
I have used Estapol successfully a few times on bookcases. I found that you need to apply thinly and brush it out. Sand with fine paper between coats and pick up the dust with a tack cloth or rag dampened with metho. I have used 3 to 4 coats and you will find that each coat dries into the previous one. A final polish with Neil's EEE will take off any fine pinpoints and give it a great finish. I have used it on pine but would not be sacriligous enough to use it classy timbers - rather Organoil or similar.
Hope this might help
G'Day Paul
My self I work in a furniture spary painters shop. We don't use estapol but 2-pack paints etc. But anyway the following information might help you.
Say we have a bench top for example that needs a perfect!!! finish on it. Good enough to see the reflection of your eyeballs in the surface, if your after a really high gloss finish or smooth enough to slid a bare bottom across it if it's a lovley satin finish. The ladys appreciate it...apparently!
1. Sand the entire surface to be painted/sealed VERY smooth. Our "final" prep sanding finish prior to the FIRST "sealer" coat we use 320 grit paper. We may have started of with 180 grit than 240 before finally getting to 320 grit. Fill in any and all holes grain etc with the filler of your choice prior to the first sealer coat. The more time you spend making sure you have well and truley filled as much of the grain and any holes the less chance of air bubbles.
2. Job is then spayed with what is called a 'sealer" coat. This is 2 complete passes (from the front edge of bench top "up" to the back edge and then back "down" to the front edge again).
The sealer is a special 2 pack "sanding sealer" I think you can also buy some form of it it as a "single" pack at a GOOD paint store. (often called "sanding sealer" in paint shops)
Once the bench top has had the 2 complete passes sparyed on it , it is then put aside for about 15 -30 minutes. Enough for the first 2 passes to really soake in but not to long. The varnish/estapol should still be slightly "tacky" not to dry before the next step.
3. The bench top is then given another 2 passes the same as step 2.
4. The bench top is then put aside to dry. (for us, about 4hrs later) It's hard to tell you just when dry is dry. But when you next sand the sealer coat the varnish (sanding sealer) should "powder up" very easily. IE: lots of fine white dust. Should not clog up your sanding disk or sandpaper as you are sanding it.
5. Next sand the sealer coat with 320 grit paper. As you are sanding it be VERY CAREFULL not to "cut through" (sand through)the sealer coat you have just sprayed/painted.
When you hold the job up to the light ( or get down at nose level) and look across the surface it should eventually all be one uniform "dull" sheen. There should be no "bright" flecks of sealer left on the surface that you can see of feel. This is a job that takes LOTS of time and paitenece.
Rush it and you will cut through the sealer coat. This will cause any area you have cut through to "pin-hole" when you apply the top coat. If you don't spend enough time getting the perfect fleck free surface. It will also show up rough in the top coat.
If you see any pin holes as you are sanding the sealer coat, these will need to be ALL filled before you even attempt the next and hopefully final top coat. A wax filler stick is very handy for the tiny pin holes.
When you are applying the initial sealer coats (both the first and second stage of the sealer coating) You want to aim for the sealer to go on thick enough (a flood coat) for it to really sink into the grain of the timber. But not supper thick as this will trap the air beneath the varnish and cause air bubbles also.
You will probaly have to experiment with what works well for you.
It helps to experiment with thining down your sealer coat by about 5% and your finall coat around 10%. But this varies depending on the type of paint/sealer/varnish you are using. Like I said we don't use estapol so you will have to pick their brains at the paint shop or contact the paint manufacture directly. Most are more then happy to help you out with suggested thining ratios etc. Helps if you "speak the lingo" a bit . Hopefully youv'e had a bit of a "lingo" lesson here.
Hopefully if you have good timber to begin with and you have done all you prep work and sanding as near to perfect as can be. You will only need to go through the sealing process once. But if you find that even after you have done you sealer coat and sanded it what you think is "perfect" You may unfortuantly realize that your sealer and sanding where less than perfect. And you top coat might still have air bubbles and pin holes.
Nothing for it but to SAND IT ALL AGAIN the same as in step 5. Being extra dilligent this time.
Yep!!...it's a lot of work (ALL Cabinet Makers Please Note !:-) ) and takes intense focusing on all the fine details . (But if you don't want any pin holes or bubble etc this is the way it's done.
For us to do a professional job on say a 4mt long by 1mt wide camphor laurel bench top. Can take any where between 6-10hrs work (Plus drying time!) depending on the condition of the timber delivered to us from the cabinet makers who have all ready done most of the first "rough" sanding before it even gets to us.!
Of course if it's all too much trouble send it to us! (but not now where snowed under with work!) and in return for a bench top the size above you will have to pay around $240.00 . Mabey more if it's a real "nasty" slab of timber. But it WILL be an Absoutley Fabulous
Finish!!!!!!!
Or it could be a Wattyl quality control issue.....
These products shoudl not pin hole.
Hi all
I often wonder if you stir in the pin holes by to much stirrin, hence air bubles.
Cheers, Allan
All the above and more but.
The secret is to thin the blasted stuff.
If you don't thin most retail packed varnishes you are doomed to a jammy finish.
You will find bubles & stuff aren't as much a problem.
Spot on soundman, what a remarkable difference it made.
Thanks too, to all that offered their good advice.
Cheers.
I have found that Estapol and similar PolyU products don't like rapid stirring. The suggested method is to use a flat paddle and stir top to bottom gently. It also seems that during the colder months it may set? too fast and bubbles don't get a chance to flow out.Quote:
Originally posted by Tatts
Is there a certain technique to applying estapol?
I'll be buggered if i can get it to go on with out getting those tiny air bubbles/pin holes in it.
Yes i stirred it correctly.
Yes i used a good brush.
Yes it was a clean enviroment.
With this possibility in mind, a job I did about a month ago (in Melbourne) I kept the tin in the house so it would not get so cold, carefully stirred with a paddle and placed the tin in some warm water during the application. The fininish was the best I had ever got!! Well worth the extra effort.
Cheers. LPS
Also in addition to the other suggestions it helps if two days before you turn the tin upside down. This allows the contents to mix naturally.
Peter.