Gliderol Door opener...

I'm getting a little tired of coming home late and finding my garage door wide open for all the world to see and enter.

This is our first garage (first two had carports), and our first with a remote door. We have three remotes, one in each car and one in the house. The instructions say that a "door bell" style push button can be added to allow the door to be closed/opened from a 'convenient' position, but they don't show how to hook it up!! I have the original circuit board that was replaced under warranty 12 months ago and have found four screw terminals. They are marked 'GRD', 'ST', 'SENS', & '12V'. The instructions do show an infra-red sensor hooked up to all but the 'ST'. There is a "start" button on the board itself, but to access it requires removal of the cover and standing on a chair.

So, my question is how to hook up the remote push button? By tracing the PCB, I found the connections from either side of the "start" button lead to the 'GRD' & 'ST' terminals, however the 'ST' seems to go through a diode. I don't want to stuff the new board by "trial & error".

Sorry for long post,

Hope someone can help.

Yonnee.

Yonnee, you don't explain how come your garage door is open when you come home?

I don't see how fitting a door bell type button will fix that problem.

It sounds like someone in your neigbourhood has the same code on their remote and door as you have. Changing the code, usually by setting a series of DIP switches, should fix your problem.

Fitting a door bell type button to is a different issue and Gliderol should be able to give you the connection info for that. Maybe even on their website?

Sorry,
SWMBO & Kids (4 & 7) come home, open garage door, go inside through internal door, kids distract SWMBO, forgets to press remote (hanging on key hook in the kitchen, 1/2 way down the house).

I figure if I install the button by the internal door, the garage door can be closed as you enter the house.

I would use a piece of wire to connect to the ground and briefly touch the st terminal the door should move, if not try the next one. Your idea has a flaw your wife comes home, kids screaming for food, did I push the remote or not. Silicon Chip has an article on this problem with led's near the remote, green door down, red door up. I have the mag here PM if you want to have a look.
:2tsup:
les

I live alone, and I still have problems with the garage door being left open. Near the top of my list is to mount a microswitch on the upper door track, and make a lamp cord to plug into an outlet (powerpoint in Oz, I think), with a signal light included. The microswitch would function the same as an inline lamp switch. With the door open, the microswitch will be closed, and the signal light (in a conspicuous location inside the house proper) will be on. I'd prefer to avoid fiddling with the door opener's circuitry.

Joe

Hi Yonnee , It's the Gliderol system that's the problem. I replace at least 2 of those systems a week . The boards on them are cheap & nasty. Try using an ATA or Merlin system , less headaches believe me. It's a piece of cake rigging up a hard wired or wireless pushbutton.

I added two extra switches to my grandparents' roller door. One is a key barrel switch outside the garage door, and the other is just a bell press switch at the internal door from the garage to the house. Since Pop's workshop is off the garage, he loves the extra switches. The controller was an older B&D, and had a connector labelled "switch". Made it pretty easy!

But to your problem - which wire is which -
12V - 12V supply for powering infra red detectors etc, not required for a standard switch, or for an illuminated switch.
Grd - Ground. This will definitely be one of the two wires which will be used for your switch.
Sens- not sure. probably sensor, as in motion sensor
St - Probably start. My tip is that you would install your switch between this and grd.

You mention a diode on the other switch. is this diode actually on the
switch, or on the circuit board after the st connection? If it's after the connection, it's probably a protection device to save the circuit board in the case of an incorrectly wired switch (eg 12v to st instead of gnd to st.).

Do you know an installer, who could check the installation manual and tell you? The company is unlikely to tell you (protecting their installers) if they haven't already put it in the owners manual.
Personally, I'd give short Grd to St with a jumper wire or a pair of pliers, but I won't advise you to do this as I don't want to be responsible for you frying your board, even if that is an unlikely scenario.

Remember any switches you do add need to be "momentary" switches, not locking switches. $5 at an electrical wholesaler or an electronics shop will get you a "bell press", which is a switch/button for a doorbell. Exactly what I used for one of my grandparent's extra switch.

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Originally Posted by Cam the Mad

Hi Yonnee , It's the Gliderol system that's the problem. I replace at least 2 of those systems a week . The boards on them are cheap & nasty. Try using an ATA or Merlin system , less headaches believe me.

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Replaced the board once already. Every now and then it wouldn't open the door either with the remote or the "Start" button.

It's my wife that's the problem! **OUCH!!**
Once she gets inside, stopping the cats from escaping, puts down the school bag my son's too lazy to carry, puts down my duaghter's creche gear, walks halfway down the house to the kitchen where the other remote is, all the while listening to; "Mum, I'm hungry!", "Mum, can I play on the computer?", "Mum, what's for dinner?", "Mum, I want to over to someone's house!"...
Closing the door is the last thing on her mind.

So I figure if I put a push button switch next to the door into the house, then it will get shut.

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It's a piece of cake rigging up a hard wired or wireless pushbutton.

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Yes??? But you don't explain how...

Why don't you just hang the spare remote that is in the kitchen next to the internal door :shrug:

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Originally Posted by Tas_Dean

I added two extra switches to my grandparents' roller door. One is a key barrel switch outside the garage door, and the other is just a bell press switch at the internal door from the garage to the house. Since Pop's workshop is off the garage, he loves the extra switches. The controller was an older B&D, and had a connector labelled "switch". Made it pretty easy!

But to your problem - which wire is which -
12V - 12V supply for powering infra red detectors etc, not required for a standard switch, or for an illuminated switch.
Grd - Ground. This will definitely be one of the two wires which will be used for your switch.
Sens- not sure. probably sensor, as in motion sensor

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My guess is the trigger for the infra-red.

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St - Probably start. My tip is that you would install your switch between this and grd.

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My thoughts too, I just wanted to be sure.

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You mention a diode on the other switch. is this diode actually on the
switch, or on the circuit board after the st connection? If it's after the connection, it's probably a protection device to save the circuit board in the case of an incorrectly wired switch (eg 12v to st instead of gnd to st.).

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It's on the board after the ST connection.

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Do you know an installer...

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No.

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The company is unlikely to tell you (protecting their installers) if they haven't already put it in the owners manual.

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Gliderol haven't replied to any emails I've sent them.

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Personally, I'd give short Grd to St with a jumper wire or a pair of pliers, but I won't advise you to do this as I don't want to be responsible for you frying your board, even if that is an unlikely scenario.

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Just what I didn't want to do by trail & error, which is why I asked the question.

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Remember any switches you do add need to be "momentary" switches, not locking switches. $5 at an electrical wholesaler or an electronics shop will get you a "bell press", which is a switch/button for a doorbell. Exactly what I used for one of my grandparent's extra switch.

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Already got a 'bell-press' lined up to do the job, just got to find out which connections to hook it up to.

Thanks Dean.

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Originally Posted by djstimber

Why don't you just hang the spare remote that is in the kitchen next to the internal door :shrug:

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That's the next option, until one of the kids takes off with it...

... I didn't think it would be too difficult to have a definate answer from someone who's either done it, or had it done and looked at where the connections go on their own PCB.