What sort of trailer?

<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off">I'm finding that more and more I need a trailer to move things around. I have a major space problem in where to store one if I did buy one but am looking at all possibilities. Plan on doing some renovation work so would have to carry sheets of plasterboard etc. For those who have been down this track, any advice regarding size etc would be appreciated. Is there anything that I should avoid with trailers?
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Originally Posted by Tiger

<TABLE id=HB_Mail_Container height="100%" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0 UNSELECTABLE="on"><TBODY><TR height="100%" UNSELECTABLE="on" width="100%"><TD id=HB_Focus_Element vAlign=top width="100%" background="" height=250 UNSELECTABLE="off"> Is there anything that I should avoid with trailers?
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Whatever you get, don't lend it to anyone! They are a bit like lending a chainsaw or your wife.....you know they will come back..........:((

If it is going to live anywhere outside an enclosed garage - get a metal canopy for it. I keep seeing trailers with the bottom rusted out, usually because they have filled with wet leaves - even heavy hot dipped gal. cannot stand that treatment for a couple of years.

If it can be seen from the street, get a wheel clamp & cement a ring into the hard standing, then chain it up with a good hardened motorcycle chain & cut resistant padlock. Professional experience would suggest that quite a few trailers disappear overnight & are almost never recovered - its really easy to change the chassis number to match an old, rusted wreck.

If you have some height available, you could have a stand made up that you back the trailer up to, then tilt it into an upright position (did that for 1 friend) - another one I have seen it to use a boat trailer type winch to haul the trailer straight up a wall & chain it to the wall!

They are easier to steel than push bikes. Push bikes have serial no.s trailers dont. The only way to get any sort of ID on your trailer is weld your drivers licence no to an obscure part of trailer.
Found this out hard way. Years ago had trailer, 2 mowers plus all other equipment stolen from off my car. 2 weeks later my trailer turns up 3 doors down road.
Cops reply "prove its yours".
" You have the file I lodged regarding this being stolen"
"yeah but prove its yours"

Its easy to register a home built trailer sight unseen and get new plates.

Mate of mine had car trailer stolen. 6 months later we saw it,reprted to cops, they investigated, thankfully the 'new owner' reacted to the cops. It was then taken away Xrayed and altough welded numbers had been removed they showed up under x ray. BINGO

The best trailers hook onto the rear axle rather than the seat post. If you're carrying cargo, a single wheel BOB trailer is best, but if you're carrying live stock such as the dog, a dual wheel job is best.

You were talking about trailers for your push bike weren't you?

Richard

I've had all kinds, mostly homemade. If you are going to pull it long distances make sure you test it first. The difference between a good pulling trailer and one thats stubborn can be a huge deal on a long trip.

They sell used military ones here from the National Guard surplus. I thought about one of those. Not pretty... but darn tough!

Best bet... buy a tray top ute!(or style side/tub)
They're bigger than a 6x4(mine's 1850x2500) and can legally carry over a ton... to do that with a trailer you need power brakes, its also safer.
If you need to tow a big trailer a tray top ute has a full chassis and leaf springs which is best for towing, generally they have higher "real world" towing ratings than monoque cars.

It needs to be wide enough to carry sheet materials.

Some nominal 2400 x 1200 sheets are actually 2440 x 1220
This gives you absolute minimum internal dimensions of 2460 x 1240.

A jockey wheel is handy, but always let it rightdown when you park it so rainwater will run out.

You are limited to a maximum trailer & load weight of 750kg unless you have brakes, so brakes are worthwhile.

A 2 wheel trailer is easier to tow & back than a tandem.
205 x 14 tyres are rated for about a tonne each (Falcon/Holden)

Whatever sort of trailer you get, make it a galvanised one. I built one 7 years ago out of gal sheeting and supa gal box section with a hardwood ply floor. I may need to replace the ply in a few years but the rest of it is as good as it was when I built it.

Mick

I reckon galv trailers are not needed... dont buy a cheapy, made properly from decent steel and good design(ie no water traps)they will last for years.
The old man's 6x4 kessener(name?)was second hand when he got it 20+yrs ago... been overloaded many times lived by the sea all its life and its still in good nick, its only been refurbished twice in its life(by me).

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Originally Posted by Harry72

I reckon galv trailers are not needed....

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Painted steel may be alright in the driest state but won't last too long where it's wetter. I've seen a painted trailer rust out in 5 years up here.

Mick

Mick... "lived by the sea all its life"

Ooops, that'll teach me to read properly:- . Sorry, but I've seen too many rusty trailers, I reckon gal is the only way to go. Could be the high rainfall up here which tends to grow mould on most painted surfaces in very little time. Don't know if it's the mould which compromises the paint coating thereby causing the rust, but I reckon the extra spent on getting a gal trailer is worth it.

Mick

Thats cool Mick!

The trick thats made it last so long is using car paint and having the underside thickly coated in bitumen/body shultz.
It also helps if the design has no area's where water can gather for a length of time , like the sides of the floor plate which typically is overlapping some angle iron, if this is not fully welded along its length it allows ingress of water into the join.