Timber frame wall with a twist

Hi all
Have to build 2 partitions to make a pantry in an existing corner but the angle is about 114 degrees (not 90) It comes off the existing wall at 90 for 680mm turns off at 114 degrees for 1650mm (including door) then butts another short partition at 168 degrees. First bit is OK. Attach sole plate, verticle stud up wall to ceiling. Attach header then stud down to sole plate again (?) OK
How do I accomplish the stud position/angle. Do I have to taper the edge to maintain the face of the frame for the lining?
Do I bisect the corner angle and cut the both sole plates on the corner at 57 degrees (114/2) ?
Further complecated by existing ceiling is on a 16 degree angle Um...
As I turn off at the header at the corner it gets tricky- as the apparent angle changes to 7 degrees. If i attach the header to the ceiling it won't be verticle ! Do I plane it back to verticle and pack it to maintain the width of the header plate (for the lining) . Or is there some secret that I don't know about?
Its to be lined with 6mm ply internally and externally with mini corry. Frame is from 90x35 Baltic pine.
Anyone care to plunge in?
Cheers
:? Daz
PS Your confused - Ive got to make this in my shed and assemble it 400Km away

nightmare! :D:D:D:D - could you supply a basic drawing? Perhaps do a roughy and scan it then post it, coz I for one, am bamboozled - which aint saying much, but you know

:D

If you do it in rhondo studs ( thin steel framing) then you'll be able to do it on site, only need tinsnips to cut rhondo.

OK see if this worksThe partitions are at A & B - AA & BB are internal viewsSee how the ceiling angle changes as I turn to go towards the other side (LH)Sorry I missed your post but I thought that I might have confused a few people!!CheersDarryl

Theres nothing complicated about that. Its just a simple bit of wall framing. You've got the overall measurements so work to them.

it sounds like a stud wall with a dogleg in it to me. You would just make it in three sections and then cut the top and bottom plates at an angle to get it to sit neatly together wouldn't you? Use some gutter bolts to hold the sections together.

Studley

this may help

Thanx steve - I can see the problems clearer now .I must find some way to post sketches here.

HMM....Flatout ben,That section of wall over the door (wall A ) looks like a tricky bit of framing to me - the top plate would have to be bevelled on the front edge and the studs would have to have a bevel at the top. Possibly even a compound bevel.

And trying to make it offsite as well! Yikes!!

I can"t quite make out the measurements but it appears that the door header height is about level with the ceiling of corner AB.

If it was me and I had to make the job offsite I would construct the A wall section with a square top - the top plate being the door header and level with the top plate of wall B and then fiddle about with the triangular infill above on site. You may be able to take the corro covering straight to the roof without any back framing (although that sounds dodgy doesnt it?) or maybe just a bevelled batten on the ceiling

Bet ur really confused now LOL

Doog

Thanks Dirty
Thats given me food for thought. Ill draw it up with the door header to corner AB.
Daz