Sanding timber floor: what grade paper to start?

I've just hired a floor sander and edger from Kennards. They supplied a number of different grade of sandpaper from 24 to 120.
The 24 seems much too coarse to start with (floor is baltic pine) so I'm going to start with 50 - the next size supplied. Is this OK?

Floors are not deeply marked having been previously carpeted.

I always start with twenty four grit on old Baltic.

The sanding you do with this twenty four grit should be done on a 45 degree angle like this
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/clintfudgefloorsanding/TassyOakInMtEliza/photo#5071687722820243986"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/clintfudgefloorsanding/RmJBHOppEhI/AAAAAAAAKBE/E1SOJYw0qVY/s288/DSCF2316.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/clintfudgefloorsanding/TassyOakInMtEliza/photo#5071687748590047778"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/clintfudgefloorsanding/RmJBIuppEiI/AAAAAAAAKBM/9eO6KEmIpcs/s288/DSCF2317.jpg" /></a>

to ensure that the boards become flat.

Ditto.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dusty

I always start with twenty four grit on old Baltic.
to ensure that the boards become flat.

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Thanks Dusty,

Just tried the 24 grit in the edger and it doesn't take off as much as I was worried it would.
It does show where the nails weren't punched down enough though :~

Making progress!
Sanding at 45 degrees with 24 grit has removed all the original stain/varnish except for some black marks (stain?)

There are some marks left after sanding away some grooves (furniture drag marks). I can't feel them with a fingernail but they do show (see photo). Will these sand out once I move to finer paper and sand along the boards?

EDIT: Well I've answered my own question, the marks (from the furniture scrapes) are still there after using a finer grade paper.
Should I keep at it with the 24 grit until these marks are gone?

Keep going with the 24 until the floor is completely flat and uniform. The finer grade are all about removing the scratches from the 24 grit. I found the best order to be:

40 grit diagonal until floor flat and uniform
40 grit with the grain until all diagonal scratches gone
60 grit
80 grit
100 grit

I would have used 24 grit initially if I had some at the time. The first step took longer than all the others


Cheers
Pulse

If those marks are bugging you by all means keep sanding with the 24 grit.

However, bear in mind, some marks left in old Baltic do add to that rustic charm.

I did notice in the bottom left hand corner of the picture you provided that there are still sanding marks going straight across the boards (perhaps from a rough sand done when the house was first built, as this was a common practice) These sanding marks indicate that you still have plenty of work left to do in that first lot of 45 degree angle sanding.

Removing those old sanding marks would also see the removal of the furniture drag marks which are giving you some concern.

Over-all your doing a great job. Keep at it. And if the results come up pretty good, you can give up your day job and get a gig with me, or Larry McCully

Just killing a bit of time until it's a reasonable hour to restart the sanding.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dusty

If those marks are bugging you by all means keep sanding with the 24 grit.

However, bear in mind, some marks left in old Baltic do add to that rustic charm.

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So it's a toss up between rustic charm and hard work :)

Quote:

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Over-all your doing a great job. Keep at it. And if the results come up pretty good, you can give up your day job and get a gig with me, or Larry McCully

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Thanks for the encouragment, although it's only a small room (3.6 x 3.6), this sanding is hard work! I'll stick with my current job with computers where I get to sit down all day.
If I ever decide to sand any of the other floors, I'll definitely call in the professionals.

[QUOTE=snowyskiesau;

Thanks for the encouragment, although it's only a small room (3.6 x 3.6), this sanding is hard work! I'll stick with my current job with computers where I get to sit down all day.
If I ever decide to sand any of the other floors, I'll definitely call in the professionals.[/QUOTE]


Damn, I tell you, good help is hard to find.

Keep up the fine work. Keep us all posted as you progress.:U

Over-all your doing a great job. Keep at it. And if the results come up pretty good, you can give up your day job and get a gig with me, or Larry McCully[/quote]
Cheeres bro, i could do with a keen up and comming youngen who wants to learn the trade.