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I've been using a velcro sanding system on a power drill with the item to be sanded mounted on the lathe and with the lathe turning.
I always seem to end up with circular sanding scratches on the item being sanded. Is this usual - if not can someone give me some hints as to what I should be doing?
Thanks
Hew
The turning guys will no doubt offer more help than I can. But my suggestion would be to loose the drill and just sand by hand. (or)
I have seen a sanding aid used on the lathe called the Rotary Sander and it seemed to work great. You may want to look into one of these. Heres a link. http://www.ubeaut.com.au/comm1.htm Scroll down to the Rotary Sander link.
HTH
Cheers..
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Shane Watson..
Combine Love & Skill & You Can Expect A Masterpiece!
I'm certainly no expert, but hand sanding seems the way to go to me.
The turning lathe is taking the place of the drill and you have far greater control with the paper in your hand.
Naturally take care that you don't have loose clothing etc. hanging about to get caught up in the lathe.
Also don't press hard on the sandpaper, just light pressure and let the lathe do the work.
regards,
Allen
Stoppers, Smile http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif Its Already Happened!
Now thats deja vu http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/rolleyes.gif
http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/wink.gif
Thanks for the help, guys. I guess there aren't really any short cuts in this game so it's back to handwork.
Doorstopper may have a point with the co**** (am I allowed to use this word?) grit - because I was getting serious scratch marks with the co****r grits I was reverting to handsanding before I got to the finer grits. I'll keep practising.
Hew
Stoppers, I don't agree with your comments about graduating the grits, I go from 25 to 400, but it takes a long time to achieve the finish and I use a lot of abrasive paper http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/wink.gif http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/wink.gif http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/wink.gif
CO**** COURSE CORSE...stupid bloody system.
25 grit? Damn be better to use a blunt tool http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/rolleyes.gif On the other hand it could be cheap, I mean you could just go get some stones off the side of the road and glue them to some paper http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/wink.gif
C o a r s e....???? Dont know what you guys are worried about, It works for me... http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/tongue.gif
http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/biggrin.gif
S m a r t * * * *
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Aaaaaah....phoiled by the fantom.
O f c o a r s e . http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/tongue.gif
[This message has been edited by Shane Watson (edited 12 January 2001).]
[This message has been edited by Iain (edited 12 January 2001).]
Of course if you continue to use coarse language you will continue to have ****'s inserted in the postings.
Some silly **** set the wrong paramatters (parameters) in the cencored word list didn't they. Oh well.
Iain - 25 grit? You jest of coarse! You could lose a knuckle with that stuff. Strewth! http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/eek.gif Hey you don't go by the pseudonym of KNUCKLES do you??? http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/biggrin.gif
Can you get 25 grit ? In my 'umble opinion: if you have to use anything courser than 100 grit you need to have a serious look at your tool sharpening technique/equipment.
John H.
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Ditto that John,depending on the finish off the tool the piece may require little or no sanding sometimes just a touch up with 400/600 grit.
Cheers http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif
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Johnno
For the unconverted, yes I do use 25 grit on the Rotex. It's good for removing chainsaw marks and a gradual trip up the grits to whatever. It's a bugger for burnishing though.
Thought John would have tried it by now with his Rotex.
Neil, I won't answer that http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/frown.gif
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