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Hi All,
I am going to use one of the all in one stain/laquer finishes
to re-finish some bed ends. I have purchased a Wattyl
Estapol turps based product. I would like use a spray gun
and compressor to apply to finish but I do not know the
ratio of turps to Estapol needed. If anyone can enlighten me
I would be grateful.
Regards
Roger :)
Ask the manufacturer, there will be contact info on the tin and maybe even instructions for thinning. If not ask at the paint shop where you purchased it. If you got it at Bunnings don't wast your time asking as I doubt anyone would know.
But its still good fun to ask:DQuote:
Originally Posted by ubeaut
Trial & error is usually required. Thin just enough to get even atomization and an even spray pattern. How much you'll need to add depends on the temperature, the type of gun, tip & needle size, etc. Do your tests on some vertical surfaces.
Ted
Good answer Ted... definately need to do a coupla trial sprays if'n you expect that perfect finish...
but roughly what dilution do we start before we get into the fine tuning...
is it 50:50 or 66:33
cheers
Jedo
If its ordinary estapol probably no more than 10% turps
If you thin normal estipol too far it will go milky.... 10% absolute max probaly somewhere arround 5%.
I havn't had a lot of sucess spraying estipol.... not that i've tried hard.
cheers
Each gun is designed to spray liquids within a quite narrow band of viscosity. For example my gun is designed to spray lacquer/paints with a viscosity of 12 - 23 seconds as measured with a Ford #4 cup (a simple device for measuring viscosity). What's appropriate depends on the lacquer/paint and the ambient conditions. Other types of guns will spray much thicker materials. I live in a cool area (and viscosity is usually very temperature dependent) and generally with lacquers find I need to thin quite a bit. However Estapol is formulated for brushing and I suspect if any more than a small amount of turps is added it will be very difficult to prevent runs. I would start with max air pressure at the gun (don't exceed the maximum for your gun - usually around 40psi) and the needle set to give a light coat. Then add just enough turps (in say 2% increments) to get acceptable atomization and an even pattern. It may require quite a deal of fiddling. Once an acceptable pattern is achieved, give the article a very light coat and let it tack up a bit before trying to get a bit more thickness. Good luck
Ted
ver true Ted that guns are designed to spray within a narrow viscosity range.
But the reality is they will spray quite sucessfully over a much wider range.
Quick drying products like laquer can be quite finiky and require good atomisation.
but many products have good " flow out" and can be sprayed much more coarsely...
As long as the gun will lift the product and atomise it adequately a decent result should be achievable..
I would expect turps bassed polly loke estipol could be tretcherous as far as runs are concerned........
I know it flows out quite well when brushed, which meand it may flow out when sprayed but it may also run easly too.
As far a preasure... typical suction guns like the starts770 will run just fine at 60psi ...... while I have other guns that will still lift & atomis at 20psi.
cheers
I get the gist of what you are saying...
Estapol - formulated for brushing... so try it neat first (say 500ml) and air on full power, <= 40psi...
ifn we don't get atomisation ( a fine mist...) then dilute with turps at 2% increments... so add 10ml turps and try again... and keep adding turps at 10ml increments until you get the fine mist - with no runs - and a quick tack-up...
and the mix will depend on the weather for that day... cold or hot...
cold = more turps, hot = less turps
thanks for all that info...
Q: So I need a fancy-schmancy spray gun... I guess so... eh...
Another coupla Q: what sort of distance do you recommend between the nozzle of the spray gun and the work surface
what orientation of the spray jet is "best" horizontal, or vertical..
Thanks
cheers
Jedo
Ah not necessarily.
It aint going to atomise very well at all neat.
Because of the narrow window between thinning enough and the product misbehaving.... I would say you need to use as much tirps as the product will tolerate at all times.
as far as hot & cold... its usualy the other way round because if its hot you need the extra thinner to stop the stuff going off before it can flow out..
spraying distance is generaly arround 450mm but that can vary too.
your fan orientation depends on the shape of the piece and which way it is laying.
If you are asking this sort of question you realy need to go and get a book on spray painting or do some googling for articals on the subject....this is all spraying 101 sort of stuff.
no you don't need a fancy spray gun.... untill your skill and knoweledge is better than the gun you have.
look for a book on automotive spray painting.... there will almos ceatainly be one in you local libraray.
BTW..... there are better things to learn spraying on then estipol.
cheers
yeah - like all things, there's some learning to do
never tried spray guns or spraying
might just stick to me brushes and pads...
cheers
Jedo
Jedo, here are a couple of documents that will answer your questions re equipment and how to best use it:
http://www.itwifeuro.com/Editor/files/ABCofSE.pdf
http://www.itwdevilbiss.net/Editor/files/GUNTEQU01.pdf
Your local supplier of auto paints will probably also sell guns (from around $100). Spraying is not difficult but for varnishes formulated to be brushed frankly a brush has much to recommend it.
Ted
Hi Guys,
First post here so I hope it's helpfull.
I just finnished a spray job on one of my guitars.
I used Wattle Estapol Satin with a 10% dilution, I had no problems (apart from some runs at first, do light coats only).
Did 10 coats with a sand with 400 grit inbetween each coat.
Used a Star 770 gun at 80 psi.
:2tsup: