Durable finishes for pine .

Hello y'all .
I have been using a homemade mull ( Beaswax, gum turpentine and linseed oil ) with varying degrees of success and happiness .What i am after is a finish that is a little more durable yet, has that wax / oil lustre, feel and beauty . I am in particular looking for something to use on high traffic furniture such as, coffee tables and the like .The timber i am using at present is, Radiata ( from southern Monaro, 160 y.o trees ) And Pinus Pinia, same age Same place .
Any help on "The" finish would be most groovous . Thanks Roj

I use polyurethane. It has a bad name because people usually paint or spray it on half an inch thick and it ends up looking like plastic (not surprisingly as it is plastic!). I use sanding sealer, then I sand that. Then I paint poly. on and wipe it off with a clean rag. This leaves a really thin, but great looking finish. Repeat this for a harder finish.

Thanks for the reply . I've also used a Poly in a similar manner to you, the results were reasonably favourable .

Try RFKN's method finished off with EEE-Ultra Shine. You will be amazed at the result. It will look and feel silky and depending on the poly you use (flat, satin or gloss) will give varing degrees of lustre or shine.

I would probably use satin for the best result. This should give a beautiful, silky, lusterous, sheen to the work. Use Traditional Wax for upkeep of the finished piece.

You could also try the same thing using white shellac. Definately not as durable as the poly (plastic) but much easier to repair when damaged.

Hope this is of some help.

Neil http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif

That's right, I forgot to mention the type of poly. I agree with Neil. I only ever use satin. I hadn't thought of then using EEEEE ultra shine but now I will! Rick

Neil,
I've recently 'finished' a coffee table using poly and although every ones patting me on the back at how well it's turned out, I still see these tiny ( and I mean tiny) dust specks on the top. It's a gloss finish that I applied by diluting the poly 50/50 with thinner and then wiping it on so each coats pretty thin. I know I should cut it back in some way but have been hesitant to do so. If I cut through the top coat I'd be pretty pee'd off. But to me it's not quite finished!! Every time I walk pass the table I see these little blemishes. SWMBO doesn't seem to mind but I do. Would your EEE cream be put to good use here? and how would you go about it. I really dont want to be too aggressive on it. I just want to knock the tops of these blemishes, so if you think touching it might be too dangerous, I'll just look the other way when I walk past it http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/wink.gif.
Mark

[This message has been edited by Mark Woodward (edited 30 June 2000).]

Mark,
I know what your saying http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/smile.gif But it is an easy situation to remedy and shouldn't take to long either.

You won't or shouldn't need to sand to much so I wouldn't worry about cutting through to the last coat. Although it is always a possibility http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/biggrin.gif

Sand the top with 1200 or higher grade wet/dry paper. Put some water into a container and add one drop of liquid soap or dishwashing liquid. This makes sanding easier. So, using small amounts of water ( you don't want to flood the top!! ) sand the top lightly using a sanding block. This shouldn't take very long, depending on the size.

Wipe the water off the top and you will see where you have sanded and should see if all the little dust spots have been knocked back flat to the rest of the surface. If there not just go over the process again lightly until they are.

After thats done I don't see any reason why Neils EEE cream won't do the trick. I have never used it but figure it to be similar to cut and polish. So with a clean soft rag rub the cream in the direction of the grain. And wipe off the excess with a clean rag making sure you keep rotating the rag so you keep using a fresh surface to remove the grit. Keep doing that till you get the finish your happy with. Then I would suggest wiping over with a polish or something just to finish off. I would use an auotmotive polish, but then I would have been using an auto cut & Polish. So probably best to follow Neils advice on this step.

And once you have done all that, put the table back in place, sit back, relax and wait and see the remarks from SWMBO. BEt she won't believe her eyes http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/biggrin.gif I mean how could she think your capable of such things http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/rolleyes.gif hehehehe....

Anyway, have fun.

Neil can confirm what I have said, I am sure he knows his product better than someone who ain't used it http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/biggrin.gif Then again he might tell me I don't know what I am talking about,,,,, what to do http://ubb.ubeaut.com.au/ubb/frown.gif

Ain't life grand


Cheers

Shane...

Thanks for the brain food folks . It seems people are quite sold on the Poly' finishes,.. One way that i've used Satin poly is as follows, after fine sanding a coat of Linseed oil ( not boiled ) or tung oil left until dry . Sand lighty then, a coat of shellac ( blonde ) allow to dry completely .
This is where some people disagree with me but, i then follow the shellac with, you guessed it,,, satin poly, well thinned and rubbed in . After that i finish it off with my wax finish. This has been a reasonably successful way of finishing native hardwood and exotic softwoods .I suppose what i was originally asking was for more of those
" Passed down from grandad " recipes , minus the poly .
coo-ee