Can I tile over my existing laminate bullnosed benchtop?

I thought I had resolved to having to keep the ghastly navy blue laminate countertop in my kitchen, due to cost of getting another one installed ... but I have since seen a tiled one in a picture in a home decorating type mag and was wondering if this is a viable option ... and if so ... how likely it is i am going to be able to find someone willing to do it (or if i can be so clever as to do it myself...)
There is a sink and an oven to contend with ... but I assume tiles can be cut ah la around drains in the bathroom style etc so was after some input ...
Thoughts anyone? Pro's/Con's/How to tip's?

Attched is a pic ... Im going to paint the cupboards (and probabaly back splash) white, Im going to replace the door handles with nicer ones and rip up the lino on the floor ... Imagination required ...

Any other budget colour change option suggestions welcomed ...

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=32879

sorry, see pic in previous thread ...

It's doable, any tiler should be able to manage it. With suitable tools, it is in the realm of the home handyman.. errm... handyperson :rolleyes: but the bullnose is a tricky bit.

The stove and sink can be lifted, so that after the tiles are cut & fitted to the existing benchtop & cutouts they'll rest properly on top. The difference in height should be easily accommodated by the existing fittings. I don't recommend just cutting the tiles flush to the fittings (ala floor drains) 'cos IMHO it looks terrible. The first question anyone looking at it would ask is: "Oh, did it yourself, eh?" :-

There's a few different ways to tile over the bullnose... my preference is to trim the front face of the bullnose to give a decent flat and then add some wooden trim to frame the tiles. An advantage of this is, because few countertops are sized to be covered with tiles without any cutting, you can run the frame around the sides and back as well to suit the tile size. Timber is easier to cut than tiles. :wink:

Another option is to cut the bullnosed piece away completely and replace it with a squared wooden section, so you can tile the whole top and the front edge. However, if there's any timber movement or flex from people leaning on the front lip, the front row of tiles will inevitably loosen up. IMHO, the best way to work around this is to put an underlay over the entire top for the tiles to adhere to.

The third (and some would say best) is to remove the existing benchtop and use it as a template for a new 'un of MDF. Just laminate 2 sheets of 18mm MDF to give it some thickness. Not that expensive and saves the hassle of unwanted joints in awkward places.

Whatever way you (or your tiler) go about it, do not settle for any method which involves "we'll just putty the front edge square." That's naught but a disaster waiting to happen.

Me, I'd just hire a tiler. After all, it's what they do!

Im not Quite getting why youd paint the splashback white? It looks like white tiles already?

The tiles on the bench would be hard I imagine unless you can straighten out the bullnose front edge. You might be able to find a peice of timber to square it off, or have it made for you? I dont know the cost, im pretty sure you can't buy tiles to fit that profile.

If you work out how to finish the front edge you can lift the sink up buy undoing the screws that hold it down and re tighting them after, same with the cook top.

Personally Id leave it as is rather than do a rough job IMO you might be dissapointed. If your painting the cuboard i'd suggest one of those cheap airless spray guns for a smooth finish and a good primer to cover the wood

OK, get the gist, dont DIY, got it :) Knew the bunnings guy was giving me too much credit :) He told me to have a crack at the bathroom too! At this point I started to qu his sanity.

So get a tiler in, will most tilers go "oh yeah, lift the sink and oven, grind the front off, no probs" ... or should i expect them to look at me blankly with an *i just do tiles* expression? NB. Will be sure to make notes on what is acceptable v not acceptable in terms of sorting the bull nose and ask for an explanation of their intentions.

Re backsplash tiles, picture is probably not the best in terms of colour ... they are cream ... I need white or they will just look dirty coz im going to do the cupboards white and possibly paint the floorboards white (still flirting with this idea) ... need to do the bathroom too so going to give the whiteknights paints a good run for its money :) watch this space as I will totally inevitably be forced to make comments

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Aangelique1611

OK, get the gist, dont DIY, got it :) Knew the bunnings guy was giving me too much credit :) He told me to have a crack at the bathroom too! At this point I started to qu his sanity.

So get a tiler in, will most tilers go "oh yeah, lift the sink and oven, grind the front off, no probs" ... or should i expect them to look at me blankly with an *i just do tiles* expression? NB. Will be sure to make notes on what is acceptable v not acceptable in terms of sorting the bull nose and ask for an explanation of their intentions.

Re backsplash tiles, picture is probably not the best in terms of colour ... they are cream ... I need white or they will just look dirty coz im going to do the cupboards white and possibly paint the floorboards white (still flirting with this idea) ... need to do the bathroom too so going to give the whiteknights paints a good run for its money :) watch this space as I will totally inevitably be forced to make comments

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Hi Aangelique1611

It should not be to hard to remove the existing top, look for screws under the bench and scrape away the grout between the top and the bottom tile. you will need a (sorry cannot remember is the hotplate elec or gas?)if gas only a plumber if not a plumber and an electrician.

My suggestion - IKEA has solid wood tops 60mm thick 126mm $150 246mm $280. they will look great with white cupboards

Then you can find a local cabinet maker - to measure/cut and install new benches - you supply.

Or get a quote from granite transformations - they can apply a thin sheet 6mm I think of a man made granite (granite pces in a resign - same as ceasar stone) over the top of anything including tiles for splash backs - they have a web site, email them a picture and the measurements.

anyway that all my suggestions - good luck:2tsup:

Celeste

I got a quote on the granite stuff ... it was like well over the 1k mark .... from what it was more 2k ...

Trying to do this budget basement as I want to apply the funds to other areas of the place (polishing floor boards and installing built ins and painting) ... and im a poor student haha

I have seen the benches at ikea and am into that idea but made the assumption that the labour involved in getting it cut and installed would be well and truly the bulk of the cost of taking that option ... any ideas on what would be expected for the labour to cost?

I remember getting a quote sum time ago to replace the laminate bench with cheap laminate ... the product cost was only $200 or something but the tailoring and installation took it over the 1k ... I just cant justify that on a bench i dont love at the moment ... if i had to pay closer over 1k i think id like to pay it to a tiler as i prefer that look over laminate/ikea...

Probabaly dont want to spend over the $800 mark as if i start spending much money i will consider putting it off until next year when i can afford a complete kitchen reno.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

The third (and some would say best) is to remove the existing benchtop and use it as a template for a new 'un of MDF. Just laminate 2 sheets of 18mm MDF to give it some thickness. Not that expensive and saves the hassle of unwanted joints in awkward places.

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Angel,

This is the go. I've done several. I would prefer two layers of 19mm outdoor-rated plywood, but MDF will work if you protect totally from moisture with an underlayment of Ditra or CBU or that "paint-on" waterproof.

• Remove the sink and cooktop
• Remove the laminate top
• Make new bench top
• Install
• Use cooktop and sink to make templates for cutouts
• Cutout the templates
• Tile the benchtop, with edges of tile flush with the cutout edges.
• Grout
• Reinstall cooktop and sink.
• Enjoy!

Or, get someone to do it this way. No drama. :)

[Examples: Pic 1 part of new bench with laminate removed and new top in place (note laminate is still on the rest of the bench); Pic 2 that part of the bench built up and tiled; pic 3 different part of bench completed.]

After having another look at the pix, it appears that the cabinet the cooktop is in is entirely seperate to the sink unit? One door won't open and the benchtop isn't one piece? Are you looking at replacing them with something else one day?

Unless the two are "locked together" in some form, any movement at the joint between will cause lifted tiles. The more I look, the more I'd say a one-piece replacement top is the way to go...

There's only one minor difference I'd make to Bob's method: after removing the benchtops I'd lay them on the replacement sheet and trace around them. I wouldn't necessarily cut to those lines, I'd still measure and cut as though they weren't there. But if your measurements are an inch or two different to the traced lines, it's a good indicator that you may have to measure again. :wink:

Hi Aangelique1611

Oh I didn't notice that it was 2 benchs, that makes it even easier.

1. buy appropriate lengths of - "solid wood bench from IKEA and some of the brackets used to attach them to the cabinet, I would say you need about 12"
2. pop out sink and hotplates - you should be able to do the sink DIY and a elect. for the hotplate $100 - 150.00
3. make up a plan re sizes and sink / hotplate placement / mixer - see note below
4. cut the benches to size DIY or drop into a cabinet maker (or see if anyone on this site is near you) - it will be 2 straight cuts and 2 cut outs and 1 hole for the mixer - cabinet maker $100-150 if that if you are good a sweet talking:D
5. pop the benches onto the cabinets and attach them to the cabinets with the brackets from IKEA.
6.pop the sink back in, run a bead of silican around it - reattach waste and mixer ( if you feel you cannot do this get a plumber $100-150)
7. electrician to re-install the hotplate. $100-150

1 more thing - if you can pull the old benchs out without damaging them, forget the paper plan and measurements, just take the old benchs to the cabinet maker to copy.

sorry another hint - when you get the electrican or plumber in, it is cheaper if you have a few things for him or her to do. So if there is anything else you need doing get it done at the same time.:2tsup:

You should be able to get it all done for under $800.00 this way. I have found that building a relationship with a local cabinet maker helps for the tricky stuff.

Celeste

Yeah ... your right, i have totally never even thought about it but they are separate (a small gap) and i now intend on taking that door handle off ...now you mention it ... it looks stupid (its been a rental property for the last year so i havent really been forced to notice the dumb things ... just that some diy cowboy has done lots of silly and aweful looking things (this kitchen is nothing on some of the other stuff ... )
Now I have to decide on whether to do the ikea thing or whether to get someone to tile the benchtop for me ... my definite preference asthetically is tiles however pice is a huge factor, anyone want to guess at what i would be looking at to get this kinda job done? What profession do i look up in the yellow pages? Cabinetmaker?
A
ps. possibly intend on replacing in a year or so ... looking for something in the interim to make it more pleasing to the eye as i hear kitchens are exy! and if i was going to change it id do it so different its not funny. :)

ps. thanks for all your feedback people, really appreciating it.
There will be a lot from me on these boards over the next week weeks, i have a move in date of 1 may (first home owners grant constraints) :)